The good and the bad , My personal review CQUK

[krazygraphics]

As of now my 2014 Jeep Cherokee is all done other than the roof. I will make a list of some things I did notice.

#1 making the paint look deeper / darker ? Didn't see this in mine at all ( My Jeep is a darker color so maybe that is why ) ?
#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax
#3 I still see streaking marks in it from wipe down, for the life of me I can not get any smear marks off the car unless I use ( ERASER ) < CAN this be used as a detailer ??

( I just took a drive with some water on my hood doing about 50MPH and the water is still on the hood ) What could cause this ?

At no time did I take any short cuts during the process , I probably spent about 6 hours doing the whole job over 2 days.

I also tried the ( scratch the paint test ) I saw this on a youtube video , unfortunately I took a chip out of my paint.

Not sure what I could have done wrong during this procedure but at this point I must say it's NOT what I thought it would be sadly.

[Dr_Pain]

You do know that UK does become fully cured over time, right? I could be wrong but I remember a conversation about 30 days.

Is it 6hrs today from wash to clay decontamination and IronX decontamination, to polishing, and coating?? If you skipped any of the prior steps you may be left with contaminants which would indeed interfere with the 'departure angle'. Contaminants do increase surface friction which may explain the lack of flying beads. Other reason I could speculate would be aerodynamics of the area you were observing. Please share some close up pics of beads and if you can a driving video with beads on the hood so we can see the 'behavior'. If it has been a while you coated then it may be time for Reset or IronX and Reset?!?

[fdresq4]

FWIW,

We just CQUK my buddys wif's Pathfinder and I have it sitting in my garage for 24 hours. I thought it needed "curing time."
As far as the streak marks, what and how did you remove the UK? We followed Corey's and others suggestions on application and removal with no issues.

The only issue we had was with the Reload but Dr. Claude cleared that up.

Steve

[krazygraphics]

You do know that UK does become fully cured over time, right? I could be wrong but I remember a conversation about 30 days.

Is it 6hrs today from wash to clay decontamination and IronX decontamination, to polishing, and coating?? If you skipped any of the prior steps you may be left with contaminants which would indeed interfere with the 'departure angle'. Contaminants do increase surface friction which may explain the lack of flying beads. Other reason I could speculate would be aerodynamics of the area you were observing. Please share some close up pics of beads and if you can a driving video with beads on the hood so we can see the 'behavior'. If it has been a while you coated then it may be time for Reset or IronX and Reset?!?

Hello , 6 hours was for the CQUK only ..

I did it in the following steps ( after clay bar )

Washed the car with normal wash , washed it again with IronX .. Let ironX sit on it for a while then washed it lightly with a sponge.
Used ERASER
CQUK , once I got this wiped down I did the Reload
Complete

What would you suggest I use to get the wipe marks off ? Can Eraser be used as a detailer spray without having to use reloader ?

[krazygraphics]

FWIW,

We just CQUK my buddys wif's Pathfinder and I have it sitting in my garage for 24 hours. I thought it needed "curing time."
As far as the streak marks, what and how did you remove the UK? We followed Corey's and others suggestions on application and removal with no issues.

The only issue we had was with the Reload but Dr. Claude cleared that up.

Steve

Was removed with suede cloth , Also I did it panel by panel .. I wanted to make sure I took my time and didn't skip over anything.
I used a grand total of 18 16x16 suede cloths , again I just wanted to make sure I did it right.

[Mark]

215216217

Six hours seems like a hellishly long time just to apply the final coating?

When I did the bottom of my '97 Tahoe, meaning Hood, 4 Doors, Front Fenders, Rear Quarters, and Rear Tailgate, I don't think it took me more than 40 minutes, and while I didn't time the application, I actually think it was closer to a 1/2 hour from start to finish.

It went very fast for me, I had good temps to apply, and while I tried thinking of tips, either Corey's, with his video, and other's experiences, I pretty much went about it with the seat of my pants.

Used the CP Foam Block, and cut some 8"x8" CP MF Suede Sheets into 4"x4" size.

I applied to each panel, smoothed in a recommended cross hatch pattern both ways, once that was accomplished, all looked really well at that point, under bright lights flashing occurred quite evenly, and it really looked so smooth and level, it was like I almost felt like I didn't even have to come behind with anything else.....but of course I did. I simply wiped each panel with a regular short nap MF Towel immediately after each panel was coated .

By the time I walked around the truck, I had about another 1/2 hour or so wait, before applying Reload over the top. Just simply walked around the truck again with the bottle of Reload, and a CP Boa Towel

At around the 2 hour mark after application, I did experiment with a scratch test with my fingernails, first very lightly, and then gradually harder and harder, and was both surprised, and completely satisfied with how hard a finish I just laid down on my truck.

On 17 year old paint, the choice of CQ UK had a few good reasons, figuring my paint surely wasn't getting any younger, I wanted a product that would last, that I didn't have to continually monkey with the paint every few months. And the other was a desire for greater mar resistance.

I have noted with other products I've used, and the need of me having to use a Covercraft NOAH Cover, I was noticing marring occurring due to the winds, and dusts in combination with the Cover rubbing.

No other sealant or wax I've ever used prior seemed to have such hardness, and mar resistance, so I think I made a very wise choice with UK.

White is a very hard color to showcase gloss, depth, and the beauty of a finish, but trust me when I say the finish on this vehicle didn't stun as much as even when the keys were placed in my hands back in 1997. These three pictures can't do justice as to how good the finish looks.

Of course, the hard work was the prep, a good 6 hour's worth on those panels I previously mention.
Sure wish I had a garage, I would've quit for the day with the prep, and then did the coating the following day. I was quite burnt out when the coating went on, but all went beautifully, and was quite easy in my experience.
Mark

[Cooter]

What size kit did you buy and how much was left in the bottle when you were done?

[ChrisDA]

215216217

Six hours seems like a hellishly long time just to apply the final coating?

When I did the bottom of my '97 Tahoe, meaning Hood, 4 Doors, Front Fenders, Rear Quarters, and Rear Tailgate, I don't think it took me more than 40 minutes, and while I didn't time the application, I actually think it was closer to a 1/2 hour from start to finish.

It went very fast for me, I had good temps to apply, and while I tried thinking of tips, either Corey's, with his video, and other's experiences, I pretty much went about it with the seat of my pants.

Used the CP Foam Block, and cut some 8"x8" CP MF Suede Sheets into 4"x4" size.

I applied to each panel, smoothed in a recommended cross hatch pattern both ways, once that was accomplished, all looked really well at that point, under bright lights flashing occurred quite evenly, and it really looked so smooth and level, it was like I almost felt like I didn't even have to come behind with anything else.....but of course I did. I simply wiped each panel with a regular short nap MF Towel immediately after each panel was coated .

By the time I walked around the truck, I had about another 1/2 hour or so wait, before applying Reload over the top. Just simply walked around the truck again with the bottle of Reload, and a CP Boa Towel

At around the 2 hour mark after application, I did experiment with a scratch test with my fingernails, first very lightly, and then gradually harder and harder, and was both surprised, and completely satisfied with how hard a finish I just laid down on my truck.

On 17 year old paint, the choice of CQ UK had a few good reasons, figuring my paint surely wasn't getting any younger, I wanted a product that would last, that I didn't have to continually monkey with the paint every few months. And the other was a desire for greater mar resistance.

I have noted with other products I've used, and the need of me having to use a Covercraft NOAH Cover, I was noticing marring occurring due to the winds, and dusts in combination with the Cover rubbing.

No other sealant or wax I've ever used prior seemed to have such hardness, and mar resistance, so I think I made a very wise choice with UK.

White is a very hard color to showcase gloss, depth, and the beauty of a finish, but trust me when I say the finish on this vehicle didn't stun as much as even when the keys were placed in my hands back in 1997. These three pictures can't do justice as to how good the finish looks.

Of course, the hard work was the prep, a good 6 hour's worth on those panels I previously mention.
Sure wish I had a garage, I would've quit for the day with the prep, and then did the coating the following day. I was quite burnt out when the coating went on, but all went beautifully, and was quite easy in my experience.
Mark

30mins, I don't think so. Certainly not properly on a vehicle that size.

[krazygraphics]

What size kit did you buy and how much was left in the bottle when you were done?

30ml , I got about 1/3 left ..My whole roof on my jeep is a sunroof so hardly was used up top at all.

I might have went overboard on the time, but I took my time and went over it really good as if it was a Lamborghini !

[Mark]

30mins, I don't think so. Certainly not properly on a vehicle that size.

I didn't time myself with a stopwatch, but was keeping basic time, due to wanting to know what time I started, and when it would then be OK to begin Reload application.
I allowed one hour.

I did not dawdle, I went quickly, and did carefuly insure overlapping, so that no areas were missed. I would guess took me no longer than 3-4 minutes to apply UK to the smaller panels and I wasn't really rushing the application, I applied similarly to like Corey's Vid shows.

And how long I let UK sit before wiping wih a towel, was about the time it took for me to place the bottle of UK and applicator on a bench, walk the few feet, then pick up the MF Towel to wipe and smooth. Vaguely about 10-14 seconds time would pass after I was assured each panel was fully coated with product. I did not rub like crazy,just a smooth light straight line wipe on each panel.

Keep in mind I had done the roof about a week or so before, that was of course the hardest because the truck is tall.

I wasn't about to take a chance by letting UK sit too long before I began smoothing because I was worried about dragging, and smearing the finish. I could see the product had basically flashed, smoothed and leveled all by itself before coming behind and wiping.

Now, with that being said, you think I should've let UK sit longer before wiping?

I would imagine that time "might" be a variable due to temps, and humidity levels.

If you want to figure in the time it previously took to coat the whole roof and add the two times together, then I would say the total time for the CQ UK Application on the Tahoe took roughly an hour's time. I did also coat he Tail Lights, and the Rear Corner Plastic Panels as well, and all was good with that also.

Temps I think were about 70f degrees.

[Mark]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rAM78oDffM

As Corey says in this good Vid, "Don't turn the application into Brain Surgery", and I didn't.

The differences I noted on my White Paint from Corey's Vid, that I was seeing no evidence of the smearing seen like you see here where you see evidence of the applicator trails that stuck around that long, and some areas flashing quicker than others.

When I applied, it was just like I was laying down a layer of "Liquid Glass".

And I was using a bright 500W halogen Light at each an every panel due to knowing with white things get hard to see. I of course looked at every panel under a multitude of angles during application, and wipe off.

In Corey's Vid here, you do see a break-cut in the Vid, where he then picks up the MF Suede to smooth-level.

I cannot say if any time passed during this cut in the Vid (perhaps Corey can chime in with this) but in essence, as long as it shows in the Vid the amount of time passing before wiping was approximately how long I took to begin the final wipe.

There's only one regret with my CQ UK Application. That instead of waiting an hour, and then applying Reload, I wish I had the time, and the garage, that I would've simply applied another coat of UK! I had another full unopened bottle of UK just in case I ran out with the first bottle.

In retrospect though, I did feel I did apply quite a thickish coat of UK. I wasn't worried-concerned about cheaping out, or running out, of having to worry about how much product was left versus how much square footage was left, thus I wasn't trying to stretch the product when I applied it.

There was that "ace in the hole", another unopened 50ml bottle of UK in the wings waiting if I needed it. I did not.

Total useage of the first 50ml bottle, I was left with about a 1/5th of the bottle left. Consider I also coated 4 brand new 22" wheels in and out, the entire truck top to bottom including the entire roof rack, tail lights, rear trim panels, and I also did coat the recently repainted grill.

[Corey]

Thanks for the review and great details Mark!
As I recall no significant time is cut - just deleting something stupid I said [emoji6]

[Mark]

Thanks for the review and great details Mark!
As I recall no significant time is cut - just deleting something stupid I said [emoji6]

I simply followed all the basic guidelines required for application. I of course did a single full Eraser wipe down prior to coating, but thinking back, I did not really get too OCD about it.

The only dislike I had, and have mentioned before with my CQ UK experience was noting that while my paint by bare hand felt as smooth as glass after all the prep of washing, claying, polishing, I could still feel some slight bumpiness in the paint via the baggie test.

This minor hiccup appeared to not in any way compromise the application process. And I of course do not hold any product used, or not used correctly as fault, but rather a fault of my own, and perhaps a lack of having some more specialized products on hand to aid me.

Thus, for the future, I think I will invest in some of the newer decon products that are now being used versus Clay. This way next time around when the time comes, I'll be better able to address the surface before coating again.

The way it appears to me now, this is going to be a long long time from now! I have complete faith in the CQ UK lasting.

PS: Wanted to add, that application of Reload, both v2013, and the newer v2014, the one reputed to be more difficult with possible streaking, or an oily film gave me absolutely no problems on the Tahoe. The v2014 did produce oily hollograms on my red kia though, and I am at a loss to explain why on one vehicle, and why none on the other? Will never figure that one out.

[ChrisDA]

I didn't time myself with a stopwatch, but was keeping basic time, due to wanting to know what time I started, and when it would then be OK to begin Reload application.
I allowed one hour.

I did not dawdle, I went quickly, and did carefuly insure overlapping, so that no areas were missed. I would guess took me no longer than 3-4 minutes to apply UK to the smaller panels and I wasn't really rushing the application, I applied similarly to like Corey's Vid shows.

And how long I let UK sit before wiping wih a towel, was about the time it took for me to place the bottle of UK and applicator on a bench, walk the few feet, then pick up the MF Towel to wipe and smooth. Vaguely about 10-14 seconds time would pass after I was assured each panel was fully coated with product. I did not rub like crazy,just a smooth light straight line wipe on each panel.

Keep in mind I had done the roof about a week or so before, that was of course the hardest because the truck is tall.

I wasn't about to take a chance by letting UK sit too long before I began smoothing because I was worried about dragging, and smearing the finish. I could see the product had basically flashed, smoothed and leveled all by itself before coming behind and wiping.

Now, with that being said, you think I should've let UK sit longer before wiping?

I would imagine that time "might" be a variable due to temps, and humidity levels.

If you want to figure in the time it previously took to coat the whole roof and add the two times together, then I would say the total time for the CQ UK Application on the Tahoe took roughly an hour's time. I did also coat he Tail Lights, and the Rear Corner Plastic Panels as well, and all was good with that also.

Temps I think were about 70f degrees.

Oh, so you wiped right off. I usually let it sit for a minute or two before wiping. That's why I thought 30mins was strange.

[krazygraphics]

um... so can anyone advise me of the questions I did ask ? Somehow my thread got taken over it seems..

[Mark]

Oh, so you wiped right off. I usually let it sit for a minute or two before wiping. That's why I thought 30mins was strange.

Hi. Yes, pretty much mirroring-mimicking the speed of removal that Corey does in his Vid I earlier linked to.

One thing I cannot stress and elaborate on enough, was the ease of application on the Tahoe.

As I said, the application with Foam Block and MF Suede went so easy and effortlessly, and evidenced by the good bright lighting I had on hand, when I came behind with the MF Towel to further finesse the finish, I found again no difficulty, and no need to continuously wipe and wipe and wipe.

Again, the final wipe with MF Towel was a breeze in my experience, I figured the more rubbing I would do would only perhaps upset the coating, and also possibly remove much of that precious coating which I just laid down.

The application of UK was IMO easier than any WOWA Sealant I have used to date.(3) With the WOWA's, I've never been able to apply without seeing some minor hazing, and having to go back again with an MF Towel to remove.

Well, enough of my ramblings, but I do hope the original poster chimes back in, perhaps can offer some further input, and observations-ideas why his experience was ultimately less than favorable.

[Mark]

As of now my 2014 Jeep Cherokee is all done other than the roof. I will make a list of some things I did notice.

#1 making the paint look deeper / darker ? Didn't see this in mine at all ( My Jeep is a darker color so maybe that is why ) ?
#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax
#3 I still see streaking marks in it from wipe down, for the life of me I can not get any smear marks off the car unless I use ( ERASER ) < CAN this be used as a detailer ??

( I just took a drive with some water on my hood doing about 50MPH and the water is still on the hood ) What could cause this ?

At no time did I take any short cuts during the process , I probably spent about 6 hours doing the whole job over 2 days.

I also tried the ( scratch the paint test ) I saw this on a youtube video , unfortunately I took a chip out of my paint.

Not sure what I could have done wrong during this procedure but at this point I must say it's NOT what I thought it would be sadly.

Responding to you directly, may I make some assumptions, and ask some questions.

Well, a 2014 vehicle should certainly have a paint condition that is more intact than my 1997 Tahoe. Truth be told though, the condition of my Tahoe's paint rivals many fresh out of the showroom vehicles for cleanliness, lack of swirling, or any other paint-body damage to be found other than some small number of random minor paint chips on the finish, and some road rash on the underside due to the tires throwing up rocks. Those were addressed beforehand with the Dr Colorchip System.


Can I assume the dealer threw no specialized type of Protectants on the vehicle? I assume you are the original owner, correct?

Was any Polishing done to the vehicle beforehand? If so, by hand, by DA, or? What products if so used?

When I coated my truck, I waited a full two weeks before bringing any water near the vehicle.

Only then did I do a minor wipe down on certain areas with clear water just to remove dust and to inspect. All looked good.

When I did my little scratch test, I of course didn't dig up a disposable lighter like I seen in one vid, and began hacking away at the finish. I didn't expect CQuartz to somehow magically "bulletproof" the finish, but I do believe the paint finish now has a harder paint protection than it ever has in 17 years, and I'm saying this in comparison to any quality wax, or sealant that I've ever used in those 17 years, such as "all" of the Collinite Waxes, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0, Menzerna Powerlock, Meg's #20 Pro Poly Sealant, Meg's #21, and Zaino Z2.

Now down here in the southwest, if a large "Tumbling Tumbleweed" or a large Cardboard Box traveling from high winds at 40mph across the road should catch me, you can be sure of damage no matter what you use.

At what point did you then notice streaking? After CQuartz, or after Reload? If with Reload, which version? v2014? If so, some have reported streaking with it and some oiliness on darker Colors. Hopefully you'll further elaborate, and you can get some further advice on how to address such.

As for a darkening effect, maybe one might not see that much on a pristine brand new paint finish, but some should be noticeable on darker colors, and under the correct lighting. Midday sun may not be the best lighting to judge such.

[Cooter]

Was it washed at the dealership prior to delivery??
When I bought my truck last year, the dealership didnt wash it. I polished it with CarPro Reflect before applying UK.

[krazygraphics]

Hello

We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect
Then IronX was used
Then ERASER
then CQUK.

I have no sheeting / water dripping at all from what I can tell , Here is a picture and this is a good 2 hours after the rain has stopped

http://oi59.tinypic.com/t5ivis.jpg

[Cooter]

Thanks for clearing that up about using the DA and Reflect. I cant find that on any of your previous posts in this thread.

As for sheeting. I dont think you'll have sheeting. The water will look like its snaking across the paint (the water will stream together). You will have snaking and beading.

[Mark]

30ml , I got about 1/3 left ..My whole roof on my jeep is a sunroof so hardly was used up top at all.

I might have went overboard on the time, but I took my time and went over it really good as if it was a Lamborghini !

I suspect you did nothing basically wrong, and I'm sure you both wish to take great care of your vehicle, and have done so from what I've read.

I cannot see in my eyes that you have been far off the mark, of prep and application. Of course none of us were standing next to you when your processes took place but I'm sort of thinking the protection is there, the beading-sheeting is there, the longevity is there, but maybe you might be expecting too much, or perhaps did one oddball thing to slightly compromise the qualities, and characteristics of the coating?

Generally, and across the board, with whatever family of products you use, it might be good advice to always "keep it in the family".

Meaning, come along with Meguiars, Duragloss, Mothers, Surf City, Zymol or some other products to wash, maintain, upkeep, then you might encounter some mixed results.

I think I've played this game, and I'm sure my end results were less than optimal because of such.

As I close, I truly think you have the protection present. But if you have some smearing-streaking, I cannot really see much harm in using other toppers as a final coat, but to just keep in mind to not use products which are high in abrasives or cleaners.

Top with Colly #845, Fuzion, Synergy, Nattys, Souveran, and tell us of the results?

Yes, I know, I'm telling you the exact opposite at the end, from what I first said in the beginning of this reply.

Bottom line I think, don't resort to some aggressive products right now in haste to correct some minor issues you might note. Less is more sometimes.

[Mark]

If I was one source of overtaking your thread, and your questions, and need of help here, then I am deeply sorry.

I was hoping some personal hack experiences, from an old school guy like me would help aid you, and give some insight and guidance.

Please keep us all posted with what you think, have maybe learned, and the future outcome. I'll try to help.

[DARK HORSE]

Hello

We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect
Then IronX was used
Then ERASER
then CQUK.

I have no sheeting / water dripping at all from what I can tell , Here is a picture and this is a good 2 hours after the rain has stopped

http://oi59.tinypic.com/t5ivis.jpg

You used IRON X after polishing??? Please review post #4 from your previous thread http://carproforum.com/showthread.php?996-So-what-is-my-first-step You should have done Iron X and clay prior to polishing. Did you end up purchasing a DA? I remember talking with you only a couple of days ago about maybe buying one. What DA polisher did you get? Did you rinse the IX off the paint, then use Eraser, or did you go straight from IX to Eraser?

[DARK HORSE]

As of now my 2014 Jeep Cherokee is all done other than the roof. I will make a list of some things I did notice.

#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax


May I ask what you used for car wash soap?

[DARK HORSE]

Hello , 6 hours was for the CQUK only ..

I did it in the following steps ( after clay bar )

Washed the car with normal wash , washed it again with IronX .. Let ironX sit on it for a while then washed it lightly with a sponge.
Used ERASER
CQUK , once I got this wiped down I did the Reload
Complete

What would you suggest I use to get the wipe marks off ? Can Eraser be used as a detailer spray without having to use reloader ?


Hello

We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect
Then IronX was used
Then ERASER
then CQUK.

I have no sheeting / water dripping at all from what I can tell , Here is a picture and this is a good 2 hours after the rain has stopped

http://oi59.tinypic.com/t5ivis.jpg

I am confused as to if you polished or not? My understanding on Wednesday night was that you did not have a polisher.

[krazygraphics]

Yes the detailed came over with a dual action polisher , not sure what brand name it was but he used it on my Infinity G37 last year and it was flawless.

Maybe the soap I used after the clay was not right ? I used some soap made by zaino because I had some left over from the G37 a while back.

AFTER I washed it with that I used the clay bar , after that I used the IRONX (NOTHING WAS USED AFTER POLISH OTHER THEN ERASER)

AFTER ERASER was used I carefully applied the CQUK , it was all done in a garage with proper lighting , nothing was missed as I went over it with the suede cloth many many many times ( thats why it took me so long )

Again mayby I missed something, but I don't know how I could , Applying the CQUK in a up/down - left/right pattern as shown in Coreys video with the blue mustang is EXACTLY how I applied the coating.

AFTER ERASER was applied it was buffed out until it was flawless with zero streak marks on the car

We did use latex gloves to prevent any oil getting on the paint.

Allowed 5 min for CQUK to dry before wipedown.

[DARK HORSE]

AFTER I washed it with that I used the clay bar , after that I used the IRONX (NOTHING WAS USED AFTER POLISH OTHER THEN ERASER)



Sorry I was confused, you said in post #17; "We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect then Iron X was used"
I'm just trying to understand the full picture so I can help you.

[krazygraphics]

Yes that is correct , I'm guessing it was applied wrong. Maybe my eye's are getting bad at 40 yrs old LOL

I didn't do much of the DA polishing myself so I let him do that part of it , that's why I keep failing to mention it.

Either way , after watching all of the youtube videos and reading on here of what to do I think it was done correctly.

1 zanio wash
2 Ironx wash
3 clay bar
4 Dual Action polisher with reflect
5 Eraser
6 CQUK
7 buffed out after 5 min
8 used reload

[DARK HORSE]

#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax


^^ I think this may be your problem. After application; the vehicle should not be washed for 7 days. Definitely not immediately after application. It is best to let the coating cure as long as possible without getting wet. After 1 hour Reload can be applied, and after 1 hour if it gets rained on within the first 24 hours you must wipe the water off immediately.

As for the streaks; this may have been caused by either not wiping the coating completely off (possibly because it was left on too long and had begun to cure, as five minutes is a long time and at the edge of the limit for removal), or not completely wiping the Reload off the paint after applying it. Either of those can do it. I believe in your first post you said that Eraser was removing the streaks, if that is the case, then by all means yes remove them with the Eraser. If you find that some cannot be removed with Eraser, then you can easily remove them with a bit of Reflect on a finishing pad or by hand using a quality microfiber towel.

[krazygraphics]

Ok that could be the problem , I applied Reload 10 min after CQUK . As far as getting it wet I did wait ah hour but I guess that was too soon ...

So in this case , what's the best correction method ?

Also in first post I asked if Eraser could be used as a ( quick detailer ) for removing any type of smear marks , bird droppings or whatever ?

[DARK HORSE]

Ok that could be the problem , I applied Reload 10 min after CQUK . As far as getting it wet I did wait ah hour but I guess that was too soon ...

So in this case , what's the best correction method ?

Also in first post I asked if Eraser could be used as a ( quick detailer ) for removing any type of smear marks , bird droppings or whatever ?

Yes applying Reload 10 minutes after application is WAY to soon. Also as I stated above, the vehicle should not be washed for 7 days after application. Definitely not immediately (or even 1 hour, etc.) after application. (This is crucial)! If it does get wet (like rained on) 1 hour after application the water must be immediately removed. I really think this may be where you went wrong.

You can use Eraser to wipe off the streaks, but it is not recommended to use as aquick detailer for bird droppings, etc. For that I would recommend Ultima Waterless Wash +.

I was editing my post above when you posted, so I am not sure you saw that last part of my post (the edited part) so here it is again, just in case:

As for the streaks; this may have been caused by either not wiping the coating completely off (possibly because it was left on too long and had begun to cure, as five minutes is a long time and at the edge of the limit for removal), or not completely wiping the Reload off the paint after applying it. Either of those can do it. I believe in your first post you said that Eraser was removing the streaks, if that is the case, then by all means yes remove them with the Eraser. If you find that some cannot be removed with Eraser, then you can easily remove them with a bit of Reflect on a finishing pad or by hand using a quality microfiber towel.

[krazygraphics]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

[Mark]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

Yes, I believe it is that easy, if you want to call that "easy". There is the slight possible chance that with all he rubbing you've done to try to eliminate streaking with Eraser-etc, you may have again instilled very slight swirling here and there.

I would think further light polishing again would at least remove the Reload coat, and ease your way to again achieving a good bond of CQ UK.

Of course after the polishing I would again do a full wipe with Eraser.
(This to me of course sounds like it's going to be a quite "expensive" detail with the amount of UK, Eraser, Reflect and other products, and I'm sure a heck of a lot of labor as well)

I don't consider myself any sort of Carpro product expert, like Cquartz, and I'm a bit fuzzy about this, but I think I am correct when I'll say this in my next following paragraph......

Corey at Carpro seems to stress the Reload application be a "minimum" of one hour after CQuartz application. that I believe is the bare minimum rule of thumb to go by. And that possibly due to weather conditions like cooler temps, or maybe even higher humidity levels, it might be wise to even wait longer. Let's perhaps be safe and say 1-1/2 hours to 2 hours. I have read of folks waiting even longer than this, like overnight to let CQuartz cure, and I think the key here would be, that one could insure without any doubt that the Coating cannot-will not get wet during that time.

As I understand it, the high importance of the Reload application at some near future followup point is to protect the Coating against any form of water damage until the Coating is fully cured. That if the vehicle will be used shortly after application, and possibly see rain-etc then Reload will be a must.

There may be some users that may possibly never "reload" after CQ application, and I imagine if the vehicle is some sort of show vehicle-garage queen that won't by any chance get wet for perhaps a minimum of a week or two, then just the ceramic coating would suffice to protect without possibility of coating failure-damage I'm guessing. I believe this is correct.

Please do keep us posted, and give us a blow by blow of again what you will do, and I'm sure the pros here will aid you to happiness, and a great finale.
Mark

[DARK HORSE]

Carpro seems to stress the Reload application be a "minimum" of one hour after CQuartz application. that I believe is the bare minimum rule of thumb to go by. And that possibly due to weather conditions like cooler temps, or maybe even higher humidity levels, it might be wise to even wait longer. Let's perhaps be safe and say 1-1/2 hours to 2 hours. I have read of folks waiting even longer than this, like overnight to let CQuartz cure, and I think the key here would be, that one could insure without any doubt that the Coating cannot-will not get wet during that time.

As I understand it, the high importance of the Reload application at some near future followup point is to protect the Coating against any form of water damage until the Coating is fully cured. That if the vehicle will be used shortly after application, and possibly see rain-etc then Reload will be a must.



Thank you for reiterating what I stated above and in the prior thread Mark, you correct this is critical! When I do a coating, I personally don't apply Reload until the next day and "usually" don't release the vehicle for two days after application. I prefer the vehicle not see water of any sort (including rain) for as long as possible. I tell the client not to wash the vehicle for 7 days, and to try to avoid rain for at least three days.

[DARK HORSE]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

Yep you got it. You would wash the vehicle, then polish lightly again with Reflect, then thoroughly wipe the vehicle down with Eraser just before coating. Also as I stated above, 5 minutes is a bit long to let the coating sit on the paint before wiping it off. Spread it across the surface and work it into the section until it begins to disappear and flashes, then wipe it off. No more than 1 to 2 minutes should be just fine. You stated above that you used about 20ml of product; If the 20ml was used to do one coat on the paint only (not including the roof) it sounds like maybe it was applied a bit too thick (maybe why you didn't see it flashing immediately). Generally 10ml is enough product to do the paint on an average sized vehicle. If this is the case I would suggest not using quite as much product.

[Mark]

Yep you got it. You would wash the vehicle, then polish lightly again with Reflect, then thoroughly wipe the vehicle down with Eraser just before coating. Also as I stated above, 5 minutes is a bit long to let the coating sit on the paint before wiping it off. Spread it across the surface and work it into the section until it begins to disappear and flashes, then wipe it off. No more than 1 to 2 minutes should be just fine. You stated above that you used about 20ml of product; If the 20ml was used to do one coat on the paint only (not including the roof) it sounds like maybe it was applied a bit too thick (maybe why you didn't see it flashing immediately). Generally 10ml is enough product to do the paint on an average sized vehicle. If this is the case I would suggest not using quite as much product.

I've enjoyed both reading and participating in this thread. Lots of good info shared which will be here, and will hopefully be an aid to all present and all future members-users of Carpro products.

So, to draw some factual sound conclusions, and the fact that Reload was apparently used too soon after CQuartz application, would it be correct to assume and say that Reload came along and possibly removed much of the CQuartz before it had a chance to bond, and initially cure to the paint?

Thus, this hindered-negated many of the qualities-properies inherit of CQuartz Coating?
Mark

[DARK HORSE]

I've enjoyed both reading and participating in this thread. Lots of good info shared which will be here, and will hopefully be an aid to all present and all future members-users of Carpro products.

So, to draw some factual sound conclusions, and the fact that Reload was apparently used too soon after CQuartz application, would it be correct to assume and say that Reload came along and possibly removed much of the CQuartz before it had a chance to bond, and initially cure to the paint?

Thus, this hindered-negated many of the qualities-properies inherit of CQuartz Coating?
Mark

Mark, I would say this is very possible, even somewhat probable. However IMO I think the other issue equally detrimental is due to "washing down" the vehicle within 1 hour of application. IMO these are both big no-no's!

[krazygraphics]

Thanks again for all of the info , I guess the ONLY thing that bothers me of this whole deal is why is there no instructions that come in the box ? I see some are printed on the box , but nowhere on the box does it say you need to wait any time before applying Reload.

If it stated this on the box I would have never made this error.

Also no instructions saying not to wash the car after product install. Again if this info was on the box I would have never made any mistakes.

Since I own my own business I know how critical it is for this ! Even though on my website I have a document of how to apply ATV Graphics, I still include a fully documented manual so people know how to install them correctly. Sometimes in a garage doing an install its easier looking at directions than it is going inside and going online to search.

[krazygraphics]

OH and I also want to throw in that the whole car was NOT washed after product was installed , All I did was take the hose and spray the tailgate for a small test. The rest of the car was not touched with water at all until it rained a day later.

So with this being said , I guess the full conclusion was Reload was applied too soon.

[krazygraphics]

I guess you threw me off again with the following comment you made in your first post:



#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax

Sorry I just remembered that part when digging in my mind of what went wrong , Either way it's not right regardless - My lesson was learned

As of now all I can think of is Reload was applied too soon , and now that is raining out it obviously is totally wet so no getting around it now ! Being in Florida and having the car dry in my garage for 7 days is very hard for me to do , Not really wanting the G37 sitting outside in the rain !

I think I meant I wiped down the whole car with Reload after I was 100% complete. Busy days here with my business and was doing other things in the meantime.

[DARK HORSE]

OH and I also want to throw in that the whole car was NOT washed after product was installed , All I did was take the hose and spray the tailgate for a small test. The rest of the car was not touched with water at all until it rained a day later.

So with this being said , I guess the full conclusion was Reload was applied too soon.

I guess you threw me off again with the following comment you made in your first post:


#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax

A suggestion I would make; is in the future when seeking help on a forum such as this, try to provide ALL information as clearly as possible in your first posts. The more complete information you provide the more likely and quickly we will be able to help you.

[krazygraphics]

Sorry I just remembered that part when digging in my mind of what went wrong , Either way it's not right regardless - My lesson was learned

As of now all I can think of is Reload was applied too soon , and now that is raining out it obviously is totally wet so no getting around it now ! Being in Florida and having the car dry in my garage for 7 days is very hard for me to do , Not really wanting the G37 sitting outside in the rain !

I think I meant I wiped down the whole car with Reload after I was 100% complete. Busy days here with my business and was doing other things in the meantime.

[krazygraphics]

Again sorry for the hassle , but now you know all of the steps I have made. I may end up leaving it alone since I already spent over $100.00 on this project.I can't really afford to do it all over again.

[DARK HORSE]

Again sorry for the hassle , but now you know all of the steps I have made. I may end up leaving it alone since I already spent over $100.00 on this project.I can't really afford to do it all over again.

Certainly nothing to be sorry for, that's why we're here! It's "possible" that if you only "took the hose and sprayed the tailgate for a small test" the rest of the vehicle will be fine. We'll keep our fingers crossed for you!

[Mark]

Again sorry for the hassle , but now you know all of the steps I have made. I may end up leaving it alone since I already spent over $100.00 on this project.I can't really afford to do it all over again.

Being that this forum is relatively new, I'm sure that in time more knowledge and how-tos will be collected and posted. I would suspect there are a good number of members here that were/are also members of AutoGeek and Autopia Forums. These two forums are IMO also great forums to become a member of if you haven't done so yet.

They are both as well dealers of Carpro products as well as a myriad of other fine products.

On thier sites, there are very well written descriptions, and useage of most if not all products listed.
It was where I originally learned about, and initially bought some of my first Carpro Products such as CQuartz DLX. (fantastic product BTW!)

I suspect the majority of CQuartz users do know and are aware that Reload is the required-factory suggested maintenence product for all CQuartz Coatings. And they use it.

So, with that being said, I would then also assume that the insane beading, and sheeting that many note is not all being actually created by the CQuartz Coating itsef, but by Reload.

Thus, if costs right now are hard for you to again do a full CQuartz UK Re-coat, then I would say do try to eliminate any streaking you note with your prior application of Reload in the least agressive manner possible, and try applying another coat of Reload for the time being to see what the results are?

Reload is said to be a quite durable product all on its own, and can be used as a stand alone protectant.
Mark

[ChrisDA]

Thanks again for all of the info , I guess the ONLY thing that bothers me of this whole deal is why is there no instructions that come in the box ? I see some are printed on the box , but nowhere on the box does it say you need to wait any time before applying Reload.

If it stated this on the box I would have never made this error.

Also no instructions saying not to wash the car after product install. Again if this info was on the box I would have never made any mistakes.

Since I own my own business I know how critical it is for this ! Even though on my website I have a document of how to apply ATV Graphics, I still include a fully documented manual so people know how to install them correctly. Sometimes in a garage doing an install its easier looking at directions than it is going inside and going online to search.


Directions on how to apply and even tips are right on the purchase/product page:

http://www.carpro-us.com/carpro-professional-detailers/cquartz-uk-edition-50ml-kit-w-reload/

[ChrisDA]

Being that this forum is relatively new, I'm sure that in time more knowledge and how-tos will be collected and posted. I would suspect there are a good number of members here that were/are also members of AutoGeek and Autopia Forums. These two forums are IMO also great forums to become a member of if you haven't done so yet.

They are both as well dealers of Carpro products as well as a myriad of other fine products.

On thier sites, there are very well written descriptions, and useage of most if not all products listed.
It was where I originally learned about, and initially bought some of my first Carpro Products such as CQuartz DLX. (fantastic product BTW!)

I suspect the majority of CQuartz users do know and are aware that Reload is the required-factory suggested maintenence product for all CQuartz Coatings. And they use it.

So, with that being said, I would then also assume that the insane beading, and sheeting that many note is not all being actually created by the CQuartz Coating itsef, but by Reload.

Thus, if costs right now are hard for you to again do a full CQuartz UK Re-coat, then I would say do try to eliminate any streaking you note with your prior application of Reload in the least agressive manner possible, and try applying another coat of Reload for the time being to see what the results are?

Reload is said to be a quite durable product all on its own, and can be used as a stand alone protectant.
Mark

The insane beading etc is created by the coating, Reload is just there to help protect the coating while it's curing.

[krazygraphics]

Directions on how to apply and even tips are right on the purchase/product page:

http://www.carpro-us.com/carpro-professional-detailers/cquartz-uk-edition-50ml-kit-w-reload/

Thanks , but as said if it would have came with a print out I would have never messed anything up , I deal with this DAILY for my website ... I used to tell my customers _ Directions are on website you MORON _ Well , that turned out bad as I had to refund about $600.00 worth of items.

[ChrisDA]

Thanks , but as said if it would have came with a print out I would have never messed anything up , I deal with this DAILY for my website ... I used to tell my customers _ Directions are on website you MORON _ Well , that turned out bad as I had to refund about $600.00 worth of items.

Did the box tell you to apply Reload at all? I don't think it does. I don't think it actually mentions Reload at all.

[krazygraphics]

Being that this forum is relatively new, I'm sure that in time more knowledge and how-tos will be collected and posted. I would suspect there are a good number of members here that were/are also members of AutoGeek and Autopia Forums. These two forums are IMO also great forums to become a member of if you haven't done so yet.

They are both as well dealers of Carpro products as well as a myriad of other fine products.

On thier sites, there are very well written descriptions, and useage of most if not all products listed.
It was where I originally learned about, and initially bought some of my first Carpro Products such as CQuartz DLX. (fantastic product BTW!)

I suspect the majority of CQuartz users do know and are aware that Reload is the required-factory suggested maintenence product for all CQuartz Coatings. And they use it.

So, with that being said, I would then also assume that the insane beading, and sheeting that many note is not all being actually created by the CQuartz Coating itsef, but by Reload.

Thus, if costs right now are hard for you to again do a full CQuartz UK Re-coat, then I would say do try to eliminate any streaking you note with your prior application of Reload in the least agressive manner possible, and try applying another coat of Reload for the time being to see what the results are?

Reload is said to be a quite durable product all on its own, and can be used as a stand alone protectant.
Mark

Thanks for the input Mark , I'm curious what steps need to be taken to apply a 2nd coat ? Can this be done at any time ?
I'm guessing a wipedown with eraser and apply the coat ?

[krazygraphics]

Did the box tell you to apply Reload at all? I don't think it does. I don't think it actually mentions Reload at all.

Yes it does and it did say to apply reload as reload came with it. But then I have a wife who has an issues with throwing things away so I can't take a picture of the box.

As of now I feel we closed this case anyway , Just had a question of how to apply a 2nd coat once it's installed properly ? I might attempt this on my G37 now that I know the correct way of doing it.

[slicksierra]

Wow does it really take 30 days for UK to fully harden?? Maybe this is why I am experiencing some softness in the coating. And by that I mean hairline scratches if I wipe clean paint with a clean microfiber. It was my understanding that uk has marrying resistance qualities but I am just over the thirty day mark since application. It was applied in cold weather could that have something to do with it too?