Exterior Wash an Wax Plan for 2015 vehicle

[robvasi]

Purchased on March 13. The dealer detailed it, but I have no idea what was done other than a wash. I don't know if it was waxed or not.

I washed with Mequiar's Gold Class Car Wash. I want to prepare the finish for Sonus ION Paint Coat.

There is Clear-bra material on the rocker panels, part way up each door, the front bumper and painted portion of the grill. (The bra-coat was installed to protect the finish from rock damage on unimproved gravel roads.

Here is my plan and products.

1. Wash the Jeep with Ultima Paint Guard Wash.
2. Dry it with a microfiber towel.
3. Apply Iron X on the areas not covered by the Clear-bra material.
4. Remove Iron X with damp towel
5. Apply Sonus ION Paint Coat on areas not covered by Clear-bra. (I think of this as a wax even though that is not what it is. Hence the title of this thread.


Questions:

1. Does it matter if there is wax on it now? I am hesitant to use anything to remove it over concerns of damaging the Clear-coat.
2. Should I rinse and dry after step 4? The instructions do not state that this is necessary, just wanted to be sure.
3. Is there any reason to apply a paste wax after the Sonus Paint Coat? If so, what is recommended?

[Merlin]

Here are my suggestions.

Wash with the Two Bucket Method (http://www.qwksilver.com/files/Detail/Two_Bucket_wash_method.pdf). I would suggest Iron-X Snow Soap (http://www.carpro-us.com/auto-wash/iron-x-snow-soap-500ml/). Snow Soap is perfect for the "first time" contaminant removal wash. Be sure and use a quality wash mitt (http://www.carpro-us.com/wash-mitts-and-sponges/merino-wool-wash-mitt/) and grit guards (http://www.carpro-us.com/mitts-brushes-applicators-tools/additional-tools/grit-guard-insert-blue/) in each bucket.

Spray Iron-X (http://www.carpro-us.com/decontaminate/iron-x-500ml/), blend with a foam applicator (http://www.carpro-us.com/foam-applicator-3-pack/wash-mitts-brushes-applicators-tools/) then completely rinse it off. Feel the paint with your hand in a baggie. Do you fell little bumps? If so, you need to "clay". In my experience Iron-X spray removes most.

To be sure the paint is clean of any residual Iron-X, I'd wash it again. This is when I would completely dry the vehicle to inspect the paint. NOTE: For a drying towel I like the Microfiber Madness Dry-Me-Crazy (http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-madness/microfiber-madness-dry-me-crazy-25-x-17/).

At this point I would inspect the paint for swirl marks, micro-marring, light scratches etc. This is what we lovingly call (DISO) the Dealer installed Swirl Option. I would correct the paint before proceeding.
In your case, if the paint is in good shape, and you are only looking to do a basic wash, decon and seal. you may wish to skip this step. I warn you, If you have swirls, after it is sealed you will have shiny swirls.
"There is no point bringing a mirror-deep shine to an imperfect surface. Detailing enhances paintwork, but paint correction repairs it.
The paint correction process removes all unsightly swirl marks, micro-marring, holograms, light scratches, bird stains and water marks before the wax, sealant or coating is applied to the paintwork."

So now the paint is clean and decontaminated before any Last Step Product (LSP = Wax, Sealant or Coating) is applied. I personally would insure that any leftover prior product residue is completely removed.
For this process I'd spray the paint with Eraser (http://www.carpro-us.com/polish-compound/carpro-eraser-500ml-17oz/) and wipe it down with a BOA (5 Pack) Super Soft Plush Microfiber - 16" x 24" towel (http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-5-pack-super-soft-plush-microfiber-towel-16-x-24/). Out of the 5 towels in the pack save 2 for the removal of Sonus ION Paint Coat (http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-surface-protection/sonus-ion-paint-coat-bundle-8-oz/).


Questions:

1. Does it matter if there is wax on it now? I am hesitant to use anything to remove it over concerns of damaging the Clear-coat.
2. Should I rinse and dry after step 4? The instructions do not state that this is necessary, just wanted to be sure.
3. Is there any reason to apply a paste wax after the Sonus Paint Coat? If so, what is recommended?

Answers:

1) Yes it matters, clean and strip the paint first! Product longevity will be affected. Cleaning the paint does not damage the clear coat. LSP's are designed to bond directly to the paint surface.
2) Yes, I recommend a second wash to insure that any residue is removed. At this point do not use Megs Gold Class as it contains products that will interfere with the clean and strip process.
2) No, you can, but at this point you should only need a (QD) Quick Detailer product like Ultima Waterless Wash (http://www.carpro-us.com/auto-wash/ultima-waterless-wash-concentrate-16-oz-bundle-w-bottle-and-sprayer/) and a BOA Super Soft Plush Microfiber Towel (http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-5-pack-super-soft-plush-microfiber-towel-16-x-24/) for maintainance to the finish.

As with all the products above, follow the manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Do not cross contaminate products on your microfiber towels. Do not use the Eraser towel for LSP removal etc.
These are only my suggestions other opinions may vary.

[robvasi]

Here are my suggestions.

Wash with the Two Bucket Method (http://www.qwksilver.com/files/Detail/Two_Bucket_wash_method.pdf). I would suggest Iron-X Snow Soap (http://www.carpro-us.com/auto-wash/iron-x-snow-soap-500ml/). Snow Soap is perfect for the "first time" contaminant removal wash. Be sure and use a quality wash mitt (http://www.carpro-us.com/wash-mitts-and-sponges/merino-wool-wash-mitt/) and grit guards (http://www.carpro-us.com/mitts-brushes-applicators-tools/additional-tools/grit-guard-insert-blue/) in each bucket

Spray Iron-X (http://www.carpro-us.com/decontaminate/iron-x-500ml/), blend with a foam applicator (http://www.carpro-us.com/foam-applicator-3-pack/wash-mitts-brushes-applicators-tools/) then completely rinse it off. Feel the paint with your hand in a baggie. Do you fell little bumps? If so, you need to "clay". In my experience Iron-X spray removes most

To be sure the paint is clean of any residual Iron-X, I'd wash it again. This is when I would completely dry the vehicle to inspect the paint. NOTE: For a drying towel I like the Microfiber Madness Dry-Me-Crazy (http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-madness/microfiber-madness-dry-me-crazy-25-x-17/).

At this point I would inspect the paint for swirl marks, micro-marring, light scratches etc. This is what we lovingly call (DISO) the Dealer installed Swirl Option. I would correct the paint before proceeding.
In your case, if the paint is in good shape, and you are only looking to do a basic wash, decon and seal. you may wish to skip this step. I warn you, If you have swirls, after it is sealed you will have shiny swirls.
"There is no point bringing a mirror-deep shine to an imperfect surface. Detailing enhances paintwork, but paint correction repairs it.
The paint correction process removes all unsightly swirl marks, micro-marring, holograms, light scratches, bird stains and water marks before the wax, sealant or coating is applied to the paintwork."

So now the paint is clean and decontaminated before any Last Step Product (LSP = Wax, Sealant or Coating) is applied. I personally would insure that any leftover prior product residue is completely removed.
For this process I'd spray the paint with Eraser (http://www.carpro-us.com/polish-compound/carpro-eraser-500ml-17oz/) and wipe it down with a BOA (5 Pack) Super Soft Plush Microfiber - 16" x 24" towel (http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-5-pack-super-soft-plush-microfiber-towel-16-x-24/). Out of the 5 towels in the pack save 2 for the removal of Sonus ION Paint Coat (http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-surface-protection/sonus-ion-paint-coat-bundle-8-oz/).



Answers:

1) Yes it matters, clean and strip the paint first! Product longevity will be affected. Cleaning the paint does not damage the clear coat. LSP's are designed to bond directly to the paint surface.
2) Yes, I recommend a second wash to insure that any residue is removed. At this point do not use Megs Gold Class as it contains products that will interfere with the clean and strip process.
2) No, you can, but at this point you should only need a (QD) Quick Detailer product like Ultima Waterless Wash (http://www.carpro-us.com/auto-wash/ultima-waterless-wash-concentrate-16-oz-bundle-w-bottle-and-sprayer/) and a BOA Super Soft Plush Microfiber Towel (http://www.carpro-us.com/boa-5-pack-super-soft-plush-microfiber-towel-16-x-24/) for maintainance to the finish.

As with all the products above, follow the manufacturer's instructions. NOTE: Do not cross contaminate products on your microfiber towels. Do not use the Eraser towel for LSP removal etc.
These are only my suggestions other opinions may vary.

Thank you very much for your detailed explanation and for the links.

1. I will purchase the snow soap, in the meantime, will I do any harm if I use Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash? Do I need to wait for the snow soap or can I proceed with the Iron X after washing it with the Meguiar's?
2. I have the Microfiber madness Ultra-thick Incredimitt.
3. I will buy another bucket and the grit guards; I never heard of the two bucket wash procedure. Sound ideal!
4. I will buy the 'Dry me Crazy" towel. In the meantime, I have Microfiber Madness Yellow fever towel and the BOA towel five pack, I suppose it does not matter which I use to dry.
5. Today I looked for swirls. I set up a fluorescent lamp with a diffuser (I use this for photography) and examined the hood from both a low and higher perspective; I did not see any swirls, just a layer of dust; it's been in my garage for a few days.
6. I will order the eraser today.
7. I am not sure if the dealer waxed it or not, I am guessing he did. So, how do I remove the existing wax? Will Iron X remove the wax?