C quartz eh?

[fobia]

well i recently purchased cquartz got paint nearly 100% swirl free

i followed the directions. at around 9pm i finished. Woke up at 6:30 am to leave for work and it is pouring rain outside and the results are ok. My question is am i in trouble now protection wise because it has received rain and has not allowed 48 hours for it to cure? or will this coat be just as durable even though i drove it to work for an hour in the rain.

it says to wipe off if any water is received within 24 hours.. but i am at work and i don't have time to do that. did i just waste 50 dollars!?! if so i would like a refund that is an unrealistic position to put someone in!

this smells alot like zaino clear seal? is it the thing?

[Dr_Pain]

Well, let me reassure you that it is definitely not Zaino clear seal, and you definitely did not waste $50 on the product. Your scenario is definitely one that raises an eyebrow for me. First because you clearly were aware of the constraints and recommendations associated with the product, so to jump the gun and want a refund is a little weird to me. You were aware of the "unrealistic" position and still chose to use the product and chose to use the car without allowing proper cure time. Would you ask for a refund if you just got your floor varnished and the installer told you not to walk on them for X hours and you chose to walk on them because you needed to go to the bathroom? You (the same as anyone else) should plan for contingencies, yours being that you knew you needed to use the car to go to work and the rain forecast were elevated. I've had several friends who chose to coat one panel at a time BECAUSE of the life constraints they were under. It does take a little longer but....

So what is the problem with exposing your vehicle to rain/water within the alloted time. The coating cures and hardens over time. It is water resistant in 48 hrs, light chemical resistant (soaps) in 1 week, and fully cure at around 30 days (where you see maximum benefits). If you do expose the coating to water you may be left with "imprints" or even water spots. You should have let the coating cure and called a buddy/co-worker for a ride OR you should have planned a vacation day last week to make sure you coated on Saturday (early in the day) leaving Saturday afternoon, evening, night, all day Sunday to cure properly away from exposure.

I am sorry you feel this way but you were well informed of the requirements of the coating. Hope your environment and technique did help speed cure the coating and that this water exposure did not mess up your hard work. Personally I always speed cure my coatings using IR lamps but still keep customer cars for at least 24hrs beyond that.

[fobia]

so what are my options? to buy another bottle and re apply it?

what is the proper process then at this point if i go another week with this DD bug spots etc. do i have to restart over completely again?

[Dr_Pain]

Is it going to rain all day? or did you just have a quick sprinkle? Personally I would not allow water to dry on the coating. It is going to be a pain but you need to keep it dry. Having said that (and what I mentioned before) it is possible that NOTHING will happen to the coating. If that is the case then you dodged the bullet. If you are left with imprints then a light polish and recoat is recommended. You may be able to remove the imprints easily (since the coating is fresh) but the polishing does disrupt the outer matrix and definitely benefits from a recoat. (the light polish won't take you all day, not like when you remove swirls and scratches)

[Ebg18t]

After you redo it you could opt for a quick coat of reload if you know you can't keep it dry for the required time. It will help in the case of a sprinkle.

[fobia]

so at this point my car is nearly dry but it is very dirty and I don't want to wipe it down without some type of lubricant

[fobia]

I was driving in a heavy downpour most of the way and then it stopped

[fobia]

should i iron x and reapply in a few days?

[Dr_Pain]

Do not use ANY chemicals on it for at least 1 week, which includes soaps, IronX etc.... I understand you wanting to put some lubricant in the wash, but at this point you won't negate the ill effects. As it was mentioned above, a quick Reload may have helped. At this point the harm is done.

[fobia]

Is it going to rain all day? or did you just have a quick sprinkle? Personally I would not allow water to dry on the coating. It is going to be a pain but you need to keep it dry. Having said that (and what I mentioned before) it is possible that NOTHING will happen to the coating. If that is the case then you dodged the bullet. If you are left with imprints then a light polish and recoat is recommended. You may be able to remove the imprints easily (since the coating is fresh) but the polishing does disrupt the outer matrix and definitely benefits from a recoat. (the light polish won't take you all day, not like when you remove swirls and scratches)

ok, so if i dodged the bullet.. i will wash it in one weeks time with megs gold class. i will inspect the paint for water etching... if there is no etching i will assume we are good. However i wanted to know does this affect the life of the coating? also what are the steps with product specifics on re applying a second coat with and without water etching assuming this is my daily driver

thanks for your help.


the reason i ask for a refund is because i bought this from amazon and no where does it say on the webpage on amazon or with the instructions about the cure time. i don't expect amazon to give me direction but i do expect some type of better instructions then what was included with a 50$ purchase it just tells you how to apply it that is it.

[Dr_Pain]

It won't affect the life of the coating. The reason to avoid exposure is because the coating is "soft". Personally I would wash it with Reset and put some Reload on it. There is a long list of reasons (other than being great products) but this would take too long for me to enumerate. The skinny of it is Reset was designed for coatings and leaves no residue on the paint (which would prevent proper bonding of Reload). Megs is a great product but does contain lasting surfactants which residue may interfere with the bonding.

I completely understand your point about Amazon but I believe the instructions are on the box/bottle (maybe not in the full glory detail you will have on CarPro-US.... but that is why you only have one Corey). You can always try your luck with Amazon for failure to have a fully laid out application tech sheet and all the Dos and Don'ts.

In any case welcome to the forum, and looking forward to see where your experience will stand in a week from now. Hopefully you dodged the bullet!

[fobia]

alright i just ordered some reset and reload.. hopefully that will do the trick. I looked at the car so far no etching found. it is just super disappointing cause i paid alot of money to have the paint near 100% swirl free which it is. then i was going to do LSP .. but it turned out this way. dirt on the car :( and a rain storm :(

[TXFIVEO]

I have about 30 ml left of Cquartz UK from an application about a month ago. Send me a PM with your info and I will send it to you. Corey and CarPro are top notch. They don't sell "cheap" products, but you get what you pay for. And his service is second to none. The ONLY company in the car detailing business for me that can even be compared to his customer service is The Rag Co.

Let me know if you need more CQUK.

[fobia]

I have about 30 ml left of Cquartz UK from an application about a month ago. Send me a PM with your info and I will send it to you. Corey and CarPro are top notch. They don't sell "cheap" products, but you get what you pay for. And his service is second to none. The ONLY company in the car detailing business for me that can even be compared to his customer service is The Rag Co.

Let me know if you need more CQUK.

hey thanks for the offer! but i think you should keep it you are a member :)


of course it is going to be sunny/party cloudy for the next 5 days.. and it had to rain on my commute to work only!!! argh!!!

could i do another cquartz? if i reset and reload? maybe it is not worth it if there is no etching?

http://i.imgur.com/Utu1BaL.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/4Npdv65.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/I680AmB.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ggrhMc5.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JCDH8GZ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HV0i7Gp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MnTxbzo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Hce1L2A.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RqGojhn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/nNzgdyo.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/Q5T54DF.jpg

[fobia]

updated with pictures :/ swirls how did they get there! bits of etching when open up pictures in a new tab for full resolution

[Dr_Pain]

What kind of lighting did you use for the correction and inspection? Did you have to rub hard to remove the product when flashed? Those are the two obvious questions that come to mind as to why you would have micromarring and scratches. If you used a polish with filler and poor lighting you may have been fooled that you had completely corrected it when in fact the swirl were just masked. The solvents in CQ would dislodge some of the filler and you are left with a car that is swirled (when you thought it was 100% defect free). Lighting is critcal.... and nothing hides from the sun!!

Another possibility is you had a suede applicator which started to crystalize and you kept using it in the application, but the circular swirls don't seem to back up that theory

[Ebg18t]

Let it be for the week then give it a wash with Reset and see how it looks.

[fobia]

What kind of lighting did you use for the correction and inspection? Did you have to rub hard to remove the product when flashed? Those are the two obvious questions that come to mind as to why you would have micromarring and scratches. If you used a polish with filler and poor lighting you may have been fooled that you had completely corrected it when in fact the swirl were just masked. The solvents in CQ would dislodge some of the filler and you are left with a car that is swirled (when you thought it was 100% defect free). Lighting is critcal.... and nothing hides from the sun!!

Another possibility is you had a suede applicator which started to crystalize and you kept using it in the application, but the circular swirls don't seem to back up that theory

yeah he used some AIO when i did 11% isp wipe down i could tell some of the filler was coming out of some places. i might of made some of those when wiping it off.. i find that hard to believe though i had brand new microfibers. it was the brightest sun minnesota will ever see :)

[Ebg18t]

Fobia - if I understand you had someone else do the polishing (unknown AIO) and then you did the final wipe & coating?

I am hoping for your sake the coating is good and maybe just dirty. But if those are swirls are real, you are going want to start over. You might need to correct it using something without fillers. Then wipe with Eraser then reCoat.

[fobia]

Fobia - if I understand you had someone else do the polishing (unknown AIO) and then you did the final wipe & coating?

I am hoping for your sake the coating is good and maybe just dirty. But if those are swirls are real, you are going want to start over. You might need to correct it using something without fillers. Then wipe with Eraser then reCoat.

i don't have a rotary or random orbital. is there something by hand that would fix that?

[Ebg18t]

i don't have a rotary or random orbital. is there something by hand that would fix that?

You would need a machine. Might be a good time to dive in.

[fobia]

You would need a machine. Might be a good time to dive in.

i would lol. but i dont trust myself, i worked at a car wash and detail bay for 2 years... i could never master a rotary.. and i cringed at people i saw try to use it.. i woould always get rotary trails. My bad experience has scared me for life.

[Ebg18t]

i would lol. but i dont trust myself, i worked at a car wash and detail bay for 2 years... i could never master a rotary.. and i cringed at people i saw try to use it.. i woould always get rotary trails. My bad experience has scared me for life.

Get a Griots Garsge 6" DA. Awesome machine and easy to use. Not to mention it's pretty cheap.

[m3nke]

Those swirls in those pics appear to me to be from the polishing along with the micro marring. To fully remove you would need to fully polish those out and in turn you would need to recoat

[fobia]

Get a Griots Garsge 6" DA. Awesome machine and easy to use. Not to mention it's pretty cheap.


would i burn the paint? also what polish should i use? and what pad?

[Dr_Pain]

yeah he used some AIO when i did 11% isp wipe down i could tell some of the filler was coming out of some places. i might of made some of those when wiping it off.. i find that hard to believe though i had brand new microfibers. it was the brightest sun minnesota will ever see :)


i don't have a rotary or random orbital. is there something by hand that would fix that?


would i burn the paint? also what polish should i use? and what pad?

Well, now we have a developing story! In my opinion and AIO is the WORST possible option you could have gone with, especially with Audi paint. The AIO product is meant for very light paint decontamination and minor micromarring correction, and definitely not a strong enough product (in most cases) to perform any type of prep/correction for coating. It goes without saying that an AIO is meant as your LSP, so it leaves behind not only fillers but also leaves a paint sealant as the protection. This is definitely not the best substrate for bonding of your coating. Coating need the cleanest paint possible. Even doing an IPA or Erasor wipe down would have been left "residue" which would interfere with proper bonding between the quartz matrix and the urethane of your clear.

You can do the correction process by hand..... but spending $130 on a GG6 and maybe another $75-$100 on products and pads would be in my opinion the least you should do. A free spindle DA with good pads will not burn the paint even if you tried as the pad rotation will stop (if you apply too much down pressure) and this will HOPEFULLY prompt you to stop or change the technique. Get the 5" backing plate and MARK IT! Also get some 5.5" flat LC correction pad (not the polishing/waxing) and have at it. Read up or watch videos on technique and take your time. You should have fun with this. Do one panel at a time (per weekend if you want) and bring it from ugly to complete, and the next weekend do another. Start in the less conspicuous area (so you can perfect your technique and get more comfortable with the machine) and do some methodical section passes (based on your test spot). Audis are well known for having a HARD clear coat, so I would say you may need some Flat Top (which finished great in a one step operation), second recommendation with a lesser aggressive product which should finish equally well would be Menzerna PF2500. Hard to say which I would go with unless I was to do the test spot and inspect. Both of the product should be great for a 1 step, however I always tend to lean on doing a second step (polishing after compounding) especially if I am coating because the defects will be trapped under the coating.

P.S. IPA and even Erasor offer very little lubricity so the more you work to remove the polishing residue etc... the more changes you are at inducing defects.

[fobia]

Well, now we have a developing story! In my opinion and AIO is the WORST possible option you could have gone with, especially with Audi paint. The AIO product is meant for very light paint decontamination and minor micromarring correction, and definitely not a strong enough product (in most cases) to perform any type of prep/correction for coating. It goes without saying that an AIO is meant as your LSP, so it leaves behind not only fillers but also leaves a paint sealant as the protection. This is definitely not the best substrate for bonding of your coating. Coating need the cleanest paint possible. Even doing an IPA or Erasor wipe down would have been left "residue" which would interfere with proper bonding between the quartz matrix and the urethane of your clear.

You can do the correction process by hand..... but spending $130 on a GG6 and maybe another $75-$100 on products and pads would be in my opinion the least you should do. A free spindle DA with good pads will not burn the paint even if you tried as the pad rotation will stop (if you apply too much down pressure) and this will HOPEFULLY prompt you to stop or change the technique. Get the 5" backing plate and MARK IT! Also get some 5.5" flat LC correction pad (not the polishing/waxing) and have at it. Read up or watch videos on technique and take your time. You should have fun with this. Do one panel at a time (per weekend if you want) and bring it from ugly to complete, and the next weekend do another. Start in the less conspicuous area (so you can perfect your technique and get more comfortable with the machine) and do some methodical section passes (based on your test spot). Audis are well known for having a HARD clear coat, so I would say you may need some Flat Top (which finished great in a one step operation), second recommendation with a lesser aggressive product which should finish equally well would be Menzerna PF2500. Hard to say which I would go with unless I was to do the test spot and inspect. Both of the product should be great for a 1 step, however I always tend to lean on doing a second step (polishing after compounding) especially if I am coating because the defects will be trapped under the coating.

P.S. IPA and even Erasor offer very little lubricity so the more you work to remove the polishing residue etc... the more changes you are at inducing defects.

thanks, the guy i used does a very good job, although i could not afford to spend to get his higher packages to finish to perfection ( he warned that AIO might cover some of the finer scatches). i was well aware of that. I was aware that he was going to do AIO but i was going to wipe it off with IPA and then coat it with cquartz. He used a 2 step system a compound and the an AIO to finish it. He is a cquartz finest installer. I respect his work and how much i pay him but unfortanitly i could not afford to get his higher packages so i thought i would do some stuff myself.

here are some pictures from the detail just prior to me doing my work

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2010%20S4/20150612-DSC_4340.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2010%20S4/20150613-DSC_4347.jpg
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2010%20S4/20150613-DSC_4346.jpg

so this is what i have so far


any particular videos on youtube? there are alot and some people do better than others!

thanks for your advice!

[SameGuy]

That's the beauty of a modern DA polisher, there is little to worry about when it comes to "burning" the paint. Yes, it's still hard work, but the results turn it into satisfying hard work. Even a $60 Harbor Freight DA will do a better, safer, and more satisfactory job than a $200 "old-school" professional orbital "buffer" (ask me how I know). You will earn a newfound respect for what true detailers do, and will never again consider taking your car to a "hand car wash" or "hand applied wax" place again, and you will turn out results that are infinitely better than any of the make-work places do.

[Corey]

fobia -

It could be that the "verbiage" was confused between the detailer and yourself but just to be sure - Using an All In one product (assuming you mean a cut, polish, an sealant in one) is not going to allow for CQuartz to bond to the paint. An AIO leaves sealant on the paint and therefore the CQuartz will not bond.

As Dr. Pain explained that is not best practice and IPA or even Eraser is NOT designed to remove a sealant (which an AIO contains). Therefore the CQuartz is very likely applied over the top of a sealant and won't bond.

Also, my apologies but I did remove your links to our competitors above. CarPro USA is not affiliated with DI or AG, and we do not offer our products on Amazon.

I'm glad you found our forum. While buying from Amazon may be convenient sometimes it doesn't make for a good experience with products due to the lack of proper info or customer service. Hopefully you can gather a lot from the comments posted here.

[SameGuy]

As always, Corey, you're top-class all the way. What a great post!

[Ebg18t]

would i burn the paint? also what polish should i use? and what pad?

Nope, you will be fine. The GG6 is very easy and safe to use.


thanks, the guy i used does a very good job, although i could not afford to spend to get his higher packages to finish to perfection ( he warned that AIO might cover some of the finer scatches). i was well aware of that. I was aware that he was going to do AIO but i was going to wipe it off with IPA and then coat it with cquartz. He used a 2 step system a compound and the an AIO to finish it. He is a cquartz finest installer. I respect his work and how much i pay him but unfortanitly i could not afford to get his higher packages so i thought i would do some stuff myself.

here are some pictures from the detail just prior to me doing my work



so this is what i have so far


any particular videos on youtube? there are alot and some people do better than others!

thanks for your advice!

Did the guy doing the work for you 100% know you intended to apply CQ after? The reason I ask is I doubt he would finish with an AIO since they are a CQF shop and would be aware of the AIO bonding to CQ concerns. Most places don't do a 2-step process and finish with an AIO, something there doesn't add up.

Based on everything that has been revealed I think you are going to have to start over and chalk this up to a learning experience.

[RaskyR1]

Some clarification on this thread is needed now as someone clearly recognized my shop and notified me of the thread.

The owner recently purchased this 2012 S4 and wanted to get it dialed in as best as possible, but he was on a tight budget. He opted for my Base 1-step package, but as with any 1-step job it's a give and take scenario. Since the car is white and knowing how swirled up it was, I suggest going a little more aggressive to get more correction and that since he's a repeat customer I offered to follow it up with an AIO for no added cost, to help refine the paint a little further, rather than just topping it with a sealant. I did mention the trade off would be shorter term protection. On the evening that he dropped the car off he suggest that he may want to try and apply CQ himself, but that it could be a month or so before he gets to it, and it wasn't a for sure thing. This left me in a bit of a predicament, but rather than leave the car unprotected I opted to go with the original plan of following with an AIO in hopes of refining some of the faint DA haze while offering some light protection until he coated it, or he could follow it with any wax or sealant had he chose not to coat the car.

This was after just compounding and an Eraser wipe down
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2010%20S4/20150612-DSC_4341.jpg (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/Raskyr1/media/2010%20S4/20150612-DSC_4341.jpg.html)

After picking the car up he informed me he was going to try and coat the car in the next week. I suggest a strong wash, he asked Dawn, which I said yes to, followed by IPA, and to follow the directions.


I won't deny the possibility of some faint DA haze, but again, that's the trade off with a 1-step, you either have lots of swirls left or you have light DA haze. I do see some wipe induced marring in those pics though.


Chris, if you want, I believe I have a bottle of CQUK laying around you can have. If you want to borrow a DA polisher, I have several you can use too.

[fobia]

fobia -

It could be that the "verbiage" was confused between the detailer and yourself but just to be sure - Using an All In one product (assuming you mean a cut, polish, an sealant in one) is not going to allow for CQuartz to bond to the paint. An AIO leaves sealant on the paint and therefore the CQuartz will not bond.

As Dr. Pain explained that is not best practice and IPA or even Eraser is NOT designed to remove a sealant (which an AIO contains). Therefore the CQuartz is very likely applied over the top of a sealant and won't bond.

Also, my apologies but I did remove your links to our competitors above. CarPro USA is not affiliated with DI or AG, and we do not offer our products on Amazon.

I'm glad you found our forum. While buying from Amazon may be convenient sometimes it doesn't make for a good experience with products due to the lack of proper info or customer service. Hopefully you can gather a lot from the comments posted here.

i don't mind that you removed them.

well don't worry i ordered reload and reset from you the other day :)

[fobia]

Some clarification on this thread is needed now as someone clearly recognized my shop and notified me of the thread.

The owner recently purchased this 2012 S4 and wanted to get it dialed in as best as possible, but he was on a tight budget. He opted for my Base 1-step package, but as with any 1-step job it's a give and take scenario. Since the car is white and knowing how swirled up it was, I suggest going a little more aggressive to get more correction and that since he's a repeat customer I offered to follow it up with an AIO for no added cost, to help refine the paint a little further, rather than just topping it with a sealant. I did mention the trade off would be shorter term protection. On the evening that he dropped the car off he suggest that he may want to try and apply CQ himself, but that it could be a month or so before he gets to it, and it wasn't a for sure thing. This left me in a bit of a predicament, but rather than leave the car unprotected I opted to go with the original plan of following with an AIO in hopes of refining some of the faint DA haze while offering some light protection until he coated it, or he could follow it with any wax or sealant had he chose not to coat the car.

This was after just compounding and an Eraser wipe down
http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i288/Raskyr1/2010%20S4/20150612-DSC_4341.jpg (http://s75.photobucket.com/user/Raskyr1/media/2010%20S4/20150612-DSC_4341.jpg.html)

After picking the car up he informed me he was going to try and coat the car in the next week. I suggest a strong wash, he asked Dawn, which I said yes to, followed by IPA, and to follow the directions.


I won't deny the possibility of some faint DA haze, but again, that's the trade off with a 1-step, you either have lots of swirls left or you have light DA haze. I do see some wipe induced marring in those pics though.


Chris, if you want, I believe I have a bottle of CQUK laying around you can have. If you want to borrow a DA polisher, I have several you can use too.

No that is ok! :) thanks for the offer always helpful as usual!

the swirls that posted after i worked on the car are so hard to see. I couldn't even see them when i was taking the pictures or when i inspected it outside. they only showed up in the pictures. Maybe my eyes are bad :)? However i am a very satisfied as always with your work and the options you give me when on a tight budget.

That being said the only rant i have and why i posted to begin with was to gain more knowladge on the cquartz product. And to rant about the directions car pro gives you with the bottle are not sufficient. Again it only tells you how to apply it and that is it. It does not tell you the precautions to take after. It doesn't take that long to type some additional sentence and print them on a piece of paper. i guess i learned my lesson don't buy cquartz on amazon :)

[Corey]

Thanks for your input and the info Chad!

Really cool of you to offer the CQuartz UK and borrowing of your buffer also. Thats why I love working in this field - Some of the most caring and giving people you will ever meet.


i don't mind that you removed them.

Excellent, much appreciated!



well don't worry i ordered reload and reset from you the other day :)

Thank you! Honestly I wasn't sure what to make of this thread or if it was real until I read Chads comments above. Things just didn't make complete sense to me based on your initial post and subsequent info. :D Anyway, great to to have things sorted and have so much support from the CarPro community. Don't hesitate to call me or ask here and get any questions answered before your next prep and application. If you are going to get a polisher to properly prep and invest the time to fully learn and use the product let me know and we will take care of you on some CQuartz.

[RaskyR1]

No that is ok! :) thanks for the offer always helpful as usual!

the swirls that posted after i worked on the car are so hard to see. I couldn't even see them when i was taking the pictures or when i inspected it outside. they only showed up in the pictures. Maybe my eyes are bad :)? However i am a very satisfied as always with your work and the options you give me when on a tight budget.

That being said the only rant i have and why i posted to begin with was to gain more knowladge on the cquartz product. And to rant about the directions car pro gives you with the bottle are not sufficient. Again it only tells you how to apply it and that is it. It does not tell you the precautions to take after. It doesn't take that long to type some additional sentence and print them on a piece of paper. i guess i learned my lesson don't buy cquartz on amazon :)

Yeah, I probably should have asked where you were getting it. Corey's site, CarPro-us.com has much more detailed instructions.

http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-surface-protection/cquartz-30ml/

If you find the coating has been compromised I will gladly lend you a DA, pads, and a finishing polish to prep the paint and even give you my bottle of CQUK....(actually I should check if I ever opened it. I know I had two bottles, but I did some testing a while back and gave one away).

At the very least I can give you the DA, pads, and polish. I'll let you know Friday if my bottle of CQUK is still good. ;)

[Corey]

Thank you Chad! And if he uses your UK lmk to store credit you.

[RaskyR1]

Thank you Chad! And if he uses your UK lmk to store credit you.

Not necessary. ;)

[fdresq4]

Rasky is Da Man!

Steve

[Ebg18t]

This is exactly what this community should be about.

Guy comes to site asking questions. Group throws out ideas. Professionals offer to help. Original poster walks away with lots of info and a solid game plan. Plus NO ONE bashed or jumped on anyone!!

[fdresq4]

This is exactly what this community should be about.

Guy comes to site asking questions. Group throws out ideas. Professionals offer to help. Original poster walks away with lots of info and a solid game plan. Plus NO ONE bashed or jumped on anyone!!

It is a kinder gentler group here! :cool:

[Ebg18t]

It is a kinder gentler group here! :cool:

Lol. Neither one of us have a temporary bans here yet. :cool:

[Cooter]

That can be arranged. :cool:

[Ebg18t]

That can be arranged. :cool:

I have no doubt. Lol.

[Cooter]

Dont look for it to happen unless you suddenly become a salesman of the following- cialis, viagra, Coach purses, Uggs, she-males, or anything from China. And for God's sake, your occupation can not be high school. Oh the stories.

[fdresq4]

Oh the stories.

Hhhmmmmm....sounds like a thread all its own. ;)

[fobia]

An update to this thread.

i did do a reset and reload.

Unfortunately their are water spots and small swirls on the paint still. oblivious to the naked eye in sunlight without glasses, but when you put on sunglasses you can see them. I think i am just going to live with it for now :( maybe next year i can take another stab at it or this fall.

The water seems to beed very well still, so i am not sure what type of testament that is to it actually protecting my paint. But i am leaning towards good.

[CarPro Mexico]

Great outcome to this thread folks!

Glad to see people car about others and willing to lend help.


An update to this thread.

i did do a reset and reload.

The water seems to beed very well still, so i am not sure what type of testament that is to it actually protecting my paint. But i am leaning towards good.

Reload will act as a first protective barrier to help in longevity for Cquartz. As long as you keep watching beading and sheeting, paint will be protected.

Keep us posted!

[fdresq4]

An update to this thread.

i did do a reset and reload.

Unfortunately their are water spots and small swirls on the paint still. oblivious to the naked eye in sunlight without glasses, but when you put on sunglasses you can see them. I think i am just going to live with it for now :( maybe next year i can take another stab at it or this fall.

The water seems to beed very well still, so i am not sure what type of testament that is to it actually protecting my paint. But i am leaning towards good.

Fobia,

If you decide to do it again , let us know and hopefully the gang can outline and help you. I remember my first time doing a coating...man I was sweating and second guessing...LOL!

[fobia]

Fobia,

If you decide to do it again , let us know and hopefully the gang can outline and help you. I remember my first time doing a coating...man I was sweating and second guessing...LOL!

Thanks!

love your dogs are they collies? i have collies too!

since i already have ultima waterless wash plus+ concentrate is that ok if i use that to touch up on details?? no harm right..

[fdresq4]

Thanks!

love your dogs are they collies? i have collies too!

since i already have ultima waterless wash plus+ concentrate is that ok if i use that to touch up on details?? no harm right..

Thank you! All rescues...Sheltie, Corgi mix, in the back, a Corgi.

I use UWW so you are fine!

Steve