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View Full Version : Oily film after applying car pro reload (2014 Formula)



Ivan Wong
09-28-2014, 02:52 AM
I need some help with the 2014 Formula Carpro Reload.

Today was my 1st time using it, topping my 1 week old CQUK.

1. Sprayed
2. Spread
3. Buff off

And i was using my Flex flashlight to inspect, it appears as a oily film all over the area i applied it to. I touched it with my finger and it would smear.

Took me FOREVER to buff that oily residue off, i ended up using Eraser as a aid to remove it.


Is this normal or what did i do wrong??

1 spray per section. (3 Section = Hood)
Straight up.
Color is Orange

Used several towels during application

About 3-4, if i don't hold the flex light to see the paint, that oily film won't be visible.

So if i were to just spread and buff it will look nice, but whenever there is a bright light shining at the section where i applied, u will see these oily residue all over. And if i swipe my finger across it, you can see its trace.

So i used Eraser to help, lightly misting my MF Towel to wipe the applied area, it'd easily remove that oily residue.... so i figure it is some sort of oil?

TroyScherer
09-28-2014, 03:01 AM
I have never had any problem with Reload. I think it's all in the proper process.


Shake well and avoid use in direct sun on hot panels
Spray only the amount needed for one section
Immediately spread the product out with a short nap Microfiber Towel and immediately buff in and off.
IMPORTANT: Use a separate towel (I prefer the Crazy Pile towel) which will stay dry throughout as your final wipe towel. Buff the area once more to be sure no streak remains
Move to next section and repeat.


If you get any "overspray" make sure you buff it as well because if you let it sit to long it will smear on you a little bit.

Ivan Wong
09-28-2014, 03:09 AM
I did it inside my garage... About 1 spray per panel
I was using a Eagle edgeless to spread, and i actually had a Crazy Pile as one of mu buff off. But didn't help much with the "OILY" film / residue i was seeing under the Flex Light....


Since i had to use Eraser to remove the oily stuff, did i remove the freshly applied Reload entirely?

TroyScherer
09-28-2014, 03:13 AM
I would guess that if your 2 towel buff method was leaving residue that you might need to flip the second towel more often. It should be almost dry as you buff. If it is wett from residue you could just be spreading it around and not removing it.

Corey
09-28-2014, 03:36 AM
Troy has some great info for you there. I will add - Did you shake it very well? The first batch separated a bit and needs to be shaken well before use but works great once mixed. Its POSSIBLE putting that point light on it is deceiving you before the Reload cures. Give it a day on one of your panels and look again and update us! As for the eraser it may remove some of it. Just depends on how much was already bonded. Once bonded Eraser won't remove Reload.

Ivan Wong
09-28-2014, 03:53 AM
I think i shake it up pretty good.
How long do i have to shake it? I usually shake way more/longer than is needed, i.e. Spray paint....

I had a thought that maybe Reload takes a while to cure.... but i didn't want to chance that and have a hell of a time to remove if i did waited. So for say, after applying and buffed off. How long should i wait for it to cure before i point light at it to double check?


PS: Will diluting help?
Car and color is this

173

Mark
09-29-2014, 04:04 PM
Ivan/All,
This thread I think was also posted over at AutoGeek, and if I can find the post there I'll probably respond in kind there also at some point.

This post might be slightly lengthy, but please bear with me.

To begin and as a prelogue, and have just bought and recieved two 500ml bottles of the new v2014 Formula of Reload just last week from AutoGeek, I was a little bit concerned about this issue you are having and praying to myself that this wasn't some new common issue with the new Reload Formula.

To note also, I do have about 2/3rds of a bottle of the older 2013 Reload Formula, have used it over CQuartz UK on both Chrome Wheels, and my Tahoe's White Paint, no issues with the older version at all, worked perfectly.

To further elaborate, and about my personal concerns, I've been detailing vehicles as a hobbyist for close to 40 years, and could also probably be considered a semi-pro for a good period of time because I once used to be paid to do people's vehicles, mostly classics and expensive American vehicles.

Wouldn't be the first time in my life that I had bought bum products not properly performing to their said claims, as on a few occasions back in the 80's and 90's I dealt with a small wax factory in Chicago called "Nu Look". Frank D'Amato the owner would give me a pint, or quart of new-fangled cutting edge detailing product he made, love it, go back and buy a gallon or more, then find issues, such as product not properly coming off, or vinyl-rubber dressings being as thin and as effective as plain water, etc.

So, I conducted myself a little "Reload 2014" test on my Kia just earlier this morning. This is the first time I've tried this new version, and my Kia is often a test bed for new products I acquire. It should be noted that about 2 weeks ago I washed, Clayed, did a 1-step Polish with Wolfgang Uber Compound, then coated the car first with Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating. I then topped with CP Reload v2013.

This morning, I did a simple wipe on the roof with plain water and a towel, then after did a wipe with CP Eraser and one short nap MF Towel.

OK, on goes the Reload v2014, I deliberately sprayed the product liberally, about 4 sprays of product per each side of roof, just used 1 crummy old short nap MF Towel again to rub in, and smooth. Walked around to the other side, and did the exact same thing. I only flipped the towel once, never came behind with more towels, and made short work of the application, not obsessing over continually wiping.

All looked good under the Carport Canopy, but did then back the car out into the sun to check.

I see absolutely no smearing, streaking, no oily haze, film, etc, and did do a finger swipe test and examined the finish closely. The vehicle's color is a dark Magenta Pearl Metallic, a fairly darkish color.
The finish was dry to the touch right now, no oiliness at all, and the paint had a nice slick feel.

So, whatever your issue has been, it is possible something else is the issue, a previous product used perhaps, the particular paint on your vehicle, or perhaps a bad bottle of product? I just don't really know, especially as you say, this product was used in conjunction with CQ UK, all should've been just fine.

You noted no issues with the UK Application, correct? What Shampoo did you use prior to applying the Reload? Was any type of Shampoo etc used prior to Reload? Could this be the possible culprit with some sort of shine enhancers in it that is playing havoc?
Mark

Mark
09-29-2014, 04:34 PM
The only other thing that comes to my mind, is severe climate conditions effecting a product? Meaning if-was the product possibly shipped during either extreme heat or cold conditions?

Although I live in the southwestern section of the USA, where the southern portion of this country does not usually get extremely bitter cold during winter, I usually refrain from buying-having car care products shipped in the extreme high heat of summer, or the ice cold of winter.
Mark

Mark
09-29-2014, 06:30 PM
OK Boys&Girls& Ivan, Here's a follow-up.

Just earlier I was out about town running a couple of quick errands.

After about 30 to 40 minute's time I examined the Roof again under bright Sunlight, the paint was almost too hot to the touch to keep your hand on the paint for 10 seconds. This is typical for here, in the New Mexico Southwest Desert.

Yes, then, I did notice some slight smearing on the paint, and when doing a finger swipe test it was appearing ever so slightly "Oily". I'm talking very very slight, but it is noticeable.

Now for me with this 14 year old car, a 2001 Kia Spectra, and my daily driver-beater-mobile, I'm not really that concerned. Now if it was a show-quality vehicle, or some other dark colored new-ish car, I might be more disliking seeing such occur.

Reasons for such I cannot of course accurately say what causes this, an ingredient in the product, or perhaps the product is of a such high concentration that maybe yes, a slight dilution with water might lessen or alleviate such a quality?

What I'm going to try in a little while since my car is back under the Carport Canopy and the paint is right now cool to the touch, I'm going to try an application of a good Detailer Spray, and see what the results are?

I'm also not sure if this slight smearing was also present with the older Reload Formula? I never tested for such, and have only used this product a couple of times also.

I will report back again with my findings, and I have two very decent Detailing Sprays I can test, Duragloss #521 Detailer Spray, and Pinnacle Crystal Mist Detailer. I'll try each on 1/2 of the Roof.

As for my thoughts-opinions about Carpro Reload, and how it should be used, I would imagine Reload was not designed or intended to be used as a Detailer Spray. While one could use this product for such, IMO such a product would be overkill to use after every wash.

I take it this product has two major purposes: One, to apply over CQuartz Coating to protect these Ceramic Coatings during initial cure time, to prevent any possibilities of water spot damage-etc.
And two, to refresh the CQuartz Coatings, and should be only periodically used maybe every 3-6 months.

I would assume due to the very good durability of Reload,and it's resistance to harsh cleaners-chemicals, that no Detailer Spray is going to come along and somehow compromise this product.

I'll take en educated guess that applying a Detailer Spray over either CQuartz or Reload won't necessarily harm them, but only maybe slightly change their Hydrophobic qualities, and that when one wants to again re-apply CQuartz or refresh with Reload, that the use of CP Eraser will remove these less durable products.
Mark

Mark
09-29-2014, 06:59 PM
Again, a short update. Applied Duragloss Detailer to 1/2 of Roof, Pinnacle Crystal Mist on the other.

Back out into the Sun to examine, no change, still the same ever so slight oily-ness and slight smearing.

What causes this, I'm of course not the chemist at Carpro to further elaborate. It might be one sole product in Reload, which is the ingredient that provides protection while CQuartz goes through its curing phase?

What will eliminate this smearing? At this point I just don't know? Perhaps a wash at some future point in time afterward?

Perhaps Corey and others can further elaborate, or make further suggestions, or perhaps someone will conduct some further testing?
Mark

Avi@CP
09-29-2014, 08:26 PM
Hi Ivan, i think you are the same guy i answered on AG forum,

i wrote there what i think the reason for your problem, i think too thin spray cover,
need to spray well over the surface then 1 mf wiping it on , and second mf wipe it off, wiping off step very important, MF need to be soft and great cleaning ability as our BOA MF.

here is another video we did quickly few days ago to show how it done , under direct sun and hot surface even : sorry for the bad quality.

http://youtu.be/KWVIj9BeLBE

Dr_Pain
09-29-2014, 09:51 PM
I know you were doing a TEST for our benefit, and over applied to prove the point....... but MAN THAT'S A LOT OF PRODUCT!!!!!

ChrisDA
09-29-2014, 10:14 PM
The first time I used 2014 it smeared, it's because I wasn't putting enough product on and applying it like the older version. After spraying more on, evenly, it came out just fine... however I'm certainly more than happy to use the older version I still have left before opening the 5 litres of 2014 I have.

Mark
09-29-2014, 11:25 PM
I know this is going to sound like "the fly in the ointment", "the monkey in the wrench" as Bruce Willis would say, and these frank comments might even get me banned from here................ Sorry folks, I am fair, but I am hard.

From what I've seen, and tested so far, Reload is not impressing me. I grossly over-applied it today, and this contradicts all of what many of you are saying, a lack of applying enough. Well, I surely applied enough without a doubt this morning.

Then came behind with more clean MF Towels, not crap either, and applied 2 different Detailer Sprays to try removing this slight oily film. No dice.

I'm 59 years old, I've might've been detailing when many here were still twinkles in their old man's eyes, and I have always kept what works, and chucked what doesn't.

And I'm concluding, somehow, this new Reload is NOT ready for prime time IMO, it lacks, it has shortcomings which just ain't cutting it, and I believe there's a improper formula which is causing such oily issues.

I conclude, "Do I really need Reload as a product"? I'm thinking no, I don't need it.

Whether there's some official "recall" or not on the product, I think I'm going to call Autogeek tomorrow, tell them I'm dissatisfied with this product, and ask for a call tag, and a total refund for 1 litre of Reload.

Those that aren't happy might wish to do the same.

I am concluding again, this product just is not cutting it as a topper over CQuartz. That Chemists again need to go back to the drawing board.

Sorry Corey, and all you folks, I'm not feeling 100% impressed with it.
Mark

Mark
09-29-2014, 11:36 PM
OK, I just watched this last recent vid posted. And no, I didn't go to that extreme extent to grossly over-apply the product to prove some point. That such is nothing but an over-waste of expensive product, and most of us don't have bottomless pockets, or free product walking through the door to waste.

But I did certainly apply quite enough for my test.

Now, what I'd like you gentlemen to try, is come back in 15 minutes, and try writing your name in the finish with your finger?

Like Ivan, this was what I seen, a slight oily smearing of product. Does this smearing finally dissipate-leave the finish? How long does it hang around? Not looking that easy to remove to me, when two different detailer sprays wouldn't budge this oily smearing.

I didn't see any smearing of the old formula, but much of it was applied to a white clear coat, and didn't really see any excess on brand new chrome wheels.

Mark
09-29-2014, 11:54 PM
I hope nobody's coming away from reading my writings, thinking like I have some guillotine for the folks at Carpro, quite the contrary.

Wish I found Carpro 2 years ago, as I would've saved many $100's of dollars on lesser products I bought, and 90% could actually see the trash can, or be given away after using some of Carpro's products, I like them that much!

Crazy as it may sound, I might try some real oddball experiments in the near future just for the heck of it.
Combining modern cutting edge Nano-Technology, with Old School. Has been done before by many with other products, so why not this?

How about topping CQuartz-UK, with Collinite #845? Or WGDGPS 3.0? Crazy yes, maybe I'll lose some inherit specific qualities of the Quartz Nano-Coating such as shrugging water and dirts, and a bit of Pearl-Like Beading.

Will such toppings really hurt-effect the protection, scratch resistance, and longevity of CQuartz? I'm sort of strongly doubting it.

Andres Bravo
09-30-2014, 01:20 AM
I used the new version today and found the hard way, that is not like the old version in term of applying less product. It needs lot of product. If durability is increase its great. But one of the key features of Reload that I like was, that very little product was use, and the excellent durability that it provided. Need to do more cars to learn more about this new version.

bigmitch
09-30-2014, 02:11 AM
I used the new version today and found the hard way, that is not like the old version in term of applying less product. It needs lot of product. If durability is increase its great. But one of the key features of Reload that I like was, that very little product was use, and the excellent durability that it provided. Need to do more cars to learn more about this new version.
Well I haven't used Reload yet as just had the wife's new Outback done with CQFinest about 2 weeks ago. I did get some of the New and Improved 2014 Reload so I can apply it every couple of months or so. From what I'm reading I'm not sure what's new and improved if you have to use allot more product then the older version. I guess I'll have to form my own opinion when I use it. Just hope that you don't have to apply the product as heavy as some are saying for the price you pay for it.

ChrisDA
09-30-2014, 02:16 AM
I think diluting the newer version might solve this... That way you get the same spread as you have more liquid with the product in it, yet you are using less product like the older version. I'm going to have to test my theory.

Andres Bravo
09-30-2014, 02:32 AM
I think diluting the newer version might solve this... That way you get the same spread as you have more liquid with the product in it, yet you are using less product like the older version. I'm going to have to test my theory.

I am thinking the same thing. I diluted 1:1 and it help using the same technic of the old version. It help the streaks. Tomorrow will do more tests.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dr Oldz
09-30-2014, 04:57 AM
Are you sure your towels are clean? That would be my guess. Maybe they got contaminated somehow and need a good soaking in hot water with some APC???

bigmitch
09-30-2014, 10:59 AM
I think diluting the newer version might solve this... That way you get the same spread as you have more liquid with the product in it, yet you are using less product like the older version. I'm going to have to test my theory.
I have yet to use Reload but on the bottle of the new version I received it said for dark paint to dilute 1:1. Not sure just seems like allot of people are having issues with the New Reload.

Avi@CP
09-30-2014, 12:19 PM
Reload 2014 is much more concentrated formula than before,
i would suggest for dark color cars to dilute with water 1:1
dilution will make the application go easier,

for such car paints we advise you this:

1. Dilute the Reload 1:1 with water ,
2.Shake well after and spray Generously over the surface! not to spray thin,
3. Once finished spray use 1 MF for spreading and buffing on the surface using same side face MF for the panel,
4. Use another MF for wiping off the excess left after , good wiping off that will leave the surface glossy and clear!. use more pressure wiping if needed.
please follow these steps for best results!.
any questions are welcome .

Corey
09-30-2014, 05:31 PM
Hi guys! Sorry I am late to the thread. I wanted to go out and test some myself with the Ultra Concentrated batch which is causing some guys issues.

First it's very concentrated so I diluted 50%. I have never done that before but it seemed to make sense with the extra concentrate of that batch of Reload. This helped a LOT to avoid the oily holograms that are visible under spot sun light when used in concentrate on a warm panel. This is how I tested it for extreme conditions. Under partly sunny skies with warm panel.

A few tests I did:

1.- I sprayed a little (non-diluted) and spread and buffed off. (this did not make streaks but when the sun would come out I could see the oily holograms which wipe either direction from the towel.

2.- I did the same test again with DILUTED 1:1 and this made a difference a bit for the better.

3.- I did another section DILUTED and this time sprayed plenty of product and then buffed all the way in and off and OF COURSE followed with a dry BOA and buffed once more. Under the sun I could find very very very faint hologram but this wiped off with a couple more wipes. That was a worst case test on a warm panel for me.

4.- Finally I tested to see if I could solve for if it was used concentrated or applied in a manner or environment that DOES create oily holograms. I had read people using Eraser to remove an oily film... So for sure Eraser is going to affect some the durability if you spray it on 5 second old fresh Reload so thats not a solution... I thought a simple damp towel would be the solution. This easily solves it.

Conclusion:

If you have a bottle of the highly concentrated Reload then of course shake well and apply much more than usual BUT to compensate for this and keep the cost the same dilute it first at least 50% water. That way you use similar cost of product as you are use to, You spread all over easily which lowers the chance of oily holograms under direct spot lighting if you are getting that in your environment. As always buff in very well after spreading and follow with secondary towel.

Finally if you do have any film a damp boa mf towel will easily wipe off this residue.

Moving Forward:

There was some level of concentrate or tweak in this version that was not in the beta version we all tested for the 2014 Reload Edition. Avi is correcting this at the lab and future batches will match what we tested during the beta 2014 V which was loved by us all.

Dave@TLC
09-30-2014, 06:28 PM
When I used the new Reload Beta formula it was very easy to apply it thin like the original Reload and not get any streaks or residue. It seems like Car Pro changed the product version quite a bit, which isn't necessarily bad, just something to account for when using the product. I haven't diluted it, but if you apply double or even triple the previously used amount to the a panel, spread with one towel, and buff with another dry towel the results are pretty amazing. I just tried it on a black Subaru to make sure, and even in direct sunlight there isn't a streak to be seen. I think we will just need to change our techniques for this newest version. Also I want to make it clear that I did not dilute Reload with water since I don't want to affect it's longevity. IF I end up having some issue with streaking even with the new process I will report back.

Ivan Wong
09-30-2014, 06:36 PM
Well I guess i will dilute mine and spray the panel more product on the panels im working on this weekend.
Hopefully that will fix the problem....

I just couldnt believe i am the first to actually bring up this issue lol

Diluting with distilled water works?

DARK HORSE
09-30-2014, 07:08 PM
Well I guess i will dilute mine and spray the panel more product on the panels im working on this weekend.
Hopefully that will fix the problem....

I just couldnt believe i am the first to actually bring up this issue lol

Diluting with distilled water works?
Yes either distilled or de-ionized is good.

Mark
09-30-2014, 07:18 PM
Corey, thank you for your thorough response and explanations. I read all of it.

If you've read through what I've written in full, you'll see I did some small amount of experimentation yesterday.

I'd like to make some "layman's conclusions as to what I see as the two common issues.

1. Streaks. I think I witnessed a bit of this yesterday, and I'm not sure what I see is what others have noted, but what I seen was that if one perhaps sprays a full concentrate, and only sparingly, then what I seen slightly, was like some darker areas in which it looks like something was applied, then some lighter hued areas which look like nothing was applied.

Thus, your explanations and advice for a 1-1 dilution, and a liberal application to better and more evenly coat a surface seem perfectly logical for rectifying such issues. That my explanations that I say above, and this "streakiness" that is what others seem to be calling it are one and the same thing.

2. The oily film being left behind issue which you appear to be calling "Oily Hollograms" again seem to be the same thing, and what I too did notice yesterday after application on my Kia's Roof.

I had not come behind with a damp MF Towel, but did come behind with two different spray detailers to try with two fresh clean MF Towels, and this was unsuccessful, I checked again in bright sunlight this morning, and the oily films still persist. I will try again per your recommendations, to do another wipe down with a dampened good MF Towel like the Boa, or some others I have and report back.

Again, when coating my Tahoe with UK and Reload I noticed none of these maladies, but of course the Tahoe is Summit White-Clearcoat, and I used the older version Reload neat, this was prior to myself getting the new 2014 Reload Formula.

Honestly at this point, I am still feeling on the fence about this new 2014 Reload Formula, not sure if I'm really liking this formula, guessing at this point on how all will work out, and if I shall find success and happiness with the new Formula?

At this point, I am still seriously considering calling AG for a return and a refund of a full liter of this product and perhaps as you have hinted at, wait for a future re-formulation at some future point that does not exhibit these issues?

My Kia is a junkbox, and yes, while I often use the Kia as a Testbed for new products to see how they work before they get to my beloved Tahoe's Paint, the Kia's paint isn't almost worth a can of junk wax, I only try to maintain its look because that's the way I am, I hate driving around in some filthy trashed looking vehicle like some section 8 bum.

As for the Tahoe which will be finalized soon with more CQ UK, and the amount left of Reload 2013 I have on hand to maintain that UK Coating, if I only use the 2013 Formula for this, I may have 2 years worth of 2013 product on hand, which I have about 7/8ths of a 400ml bottle. (especially will stretch if I choose to dilute it 1-1)

And yep, I did just check the old formula 2013 as I'm typing, it appears pure white in color versus the 2014 formula being beige.
Mark

Ivan Wong
09-30-2014, 07:29 PM
I dont think i saw any streaking on my paint... just the oily holos.
But geez i hope i ddint miss any streak or oily holos lol.

So I am working on my car on the weekends only, so for Monday - Friday it is parked.
IF i do see some streaking or holos this weekend, how do i go about from removing them? Since it has been sitting / cure for almost a week?

mrperple
09-30-2014, 10:14 PM
I'm glad I wasn't the only one having problems w/ the new Reload. Having used the older version plenty of times w/out any issue I decided not to dilute it thinking it was an unnecessary step. Needless to say I will be diluting it in the future, especially since my paint dark dark green.

Mark
10-01-2014, 12:03 AM
Well, I'm sorry all, but this product just wasn't thrilling-impressing me, and I decided to contact AG, and ask for a return and refund. Nick has contacted me, to ask what the problems were, and I explained in an amicable manner to him.

And I'll say again to all you fine folks, Corey, and all those who are affiliated with Carpro.

I love your products. I am extremely far from washing my hands from the Carpro brand. In fact, I'd like it to be my sole go-to for just about everything detail related.

There's many more products I will try in the future, that I have not yet to sample. Products like Fixer, Reflect, Trix, Hydro2, and many more.

I know you people work very hard, bend over backwards for your customers, answer any-all questions, provide 1st class support, are always kind, and you folks deserve no less.

I'm sorry folks that this particular product in its present form was just not doing it for me from what I've experienced. I'm of the belief that I will again come back to this product one day, because I see no one else stepping up, and providing such a niche specialized product such as this.
Mark

Jimmymack22
10-01-2014, 12:50 AM
Can't speak for Fixer but Reflect and Trix rock and Hydro2 is amazing and a game changing product.

DARK HORSE
10-01-2014, 03:04 AM
I dont think i saw any streaking on my paint... just the oily holos.
But geez i hope i ddint miss any streak or oily holos lol.

So I am working on my car on the weekends only, so for Monday - Friday it is parked.
IF i do see some streaking or holos this weekend, how do i go about from removing them? Since it has been sitting / cure for almost a week?

Hi Ivan,

1. If you do find any "oily holograms" or "oily Streaking" - You should be able to easily remove them with a damp (water only) mf towel, such as a BOA. If after a week on the paint (as you mentioned) and if for some strange reason the damp BOA does not remove the oily holograms, I would think that a little bit of Eraser misted on your towel should definitely do the trick. Being a week on the paint I would not worry about reducing durability of the Reload at this point.

2. If you find any "streaking" (which turn out to be high spots, not oily residue)- You can try to remove them with Eraser first, (but most likely Eraser will not remove them if they are high spots). You can remove them by hand with a drop or two of Reflect. Put a drop of Reflect on a BOA and VERY GENTLY work it across the streak a couple of times, wipe off and check to see that the streak is removed. Repeat only if necessary until the streak is removed. If you are very gentle, it should not affect the CQUK underneath. However you can verify this by putting water on that area and checking to make sure it is still crazy hydrophobic.

Mark
10-01-2014, 01:19 PM
Hi guys! Sorry I am late to the thread. I wanted to go out and test some myself with the Ultra Concentrated batch which is causing some guys issues.

First it's very concentrated so I diluted 50%. I have never done that before but it seemed to make sense with the extra concentrate of that batch of Reload. This helped a LOT to avoid the oily holograms that are visible under spot sun light when used in concentrate on a warm panel. This is how I tested it for extreme conditions. Under partly sunny skies with warm panel.

A few tests I did:

1.- I sprayed a little (non-diluted) and spread and buffed off. (this did not make streaks but when the sun would come out I could see the oily holograms which wipe either direction from the towel.

2.- I did the same test again with DILUTED 1:1 and this made a difference a bit for the better.

3.- I did another section DILUTED and this time sprayed plenty of product and then buffed all the way in and off and OF COURSE followed with a dry BOA and buffed once more. Under the sun I could find very very very faint hologram but this wiped off with a couple more wipes. That was a worst case test on a warm panel for me.

4.- Finally I tested to see if I could solve for if it was used concentrated or applied in a manner or environment that DOES create oily holograms. I had read people using Eraser to remove an oily film... So for sure Eraser is going to affect some the durability if you spray it on 5 second old fresh Reload so thats not a solution... I thought a simple damp towel would be the solution. This easily solves it.

Conclusion:

If you have a bottle of the highly concentrated Reload then of course shake well and apply much more than usual BUT to compensate for this and keep the cost the same dilute it first at least 50% water. That way you use similar cost of product as you are use to, You spread all over easily which lowers the chance of oily holograms under direct spot lighting if you are getting that in your environment. As always buff in very well after spreading and follow with secondary towel.

Finally if you do have any film a damp boa mf towel will easily wipe off this residue.

Moving Forward:

There was some level of concentrate or tweak in this version that was not in the beta version we all tested for the 2014 Reload Edition. Avi is correcting this at the lab and future batches will match what we tested during the beta 2014 V which was loved by us all.

I again did a very quick test per your instructions Corey late yesterday afternoon, and it seems you are correct that just a simple damp MF Towel wiped over the area eliminated mostly all of what I myself was seeing.

My further tests may have been further influenced and skewed in comparison to others, since after the Reloadv2014 application I tested two different Detailer Sprays on the tested Roof Panel.

Odd, and don't have any explanation for this, where just a dampened Towel seemed to do the trick, but not a Detailer Spray, which one might think has some further additions of other contained products to alleviate such.

Yet again, even after serious consideration of returning the product, I am again on the fence with what I choose to do personally?

Would I then want to purchase-try yet another batch formula in the future that has only been simply modified by water dilution, and at the same cost? From a logical, and cost standpoint, no, that when I or any other end user can simply achieve the exact same latest-greatest 2014.2 formula via water dilution.

As for other's comments like Dave at TLC saying that it seems that Carpro changed the new version quite a bit, of this I just do not know, and in actuality, none of us probably do, only the plant-facility which make these products fully know what was changed, added, or omitted.

Again, will I feel comfortable and wise further waiting and "trading" for nothing more than the same product, just simply diluted with water? In one word, no.

I would like trying your further suggestions-tips today if I can, just perhaps mixing a very small amount, perhaps just a Cap full into a clean small spray bottle at 1-1 dilution, and again test-see the results I get?

I have yet to fully commit to a product return with AG just yet.
Mark

Ivan Wong
10-01-2014, 02:21 PM
Hi Ivan,

1. If you do find any "oily holograms" or "oily Streaking" - You should be able to easily remove them with a damp (water only) mf towel, such as a BOA. If after a week on the paint (as you mentioned) and if for some strange reason the damp BOA does not remove the oily holograms, I would think that a little bit of Eraser misted on your towel should definitely do the trick. Being a week on the paint I would not worry about reducing durability of the Reload at this point.

2. If you find any "streaking" (which turn out to be high spots, not oily residue)- You can try to remove them with Eraser first, (but most likely Eraser will not remove them if they are high spots). You can remove them by hand with a drop or two of Reflect. Put a drop of Reflect on a BOA and VERY GENTLY work it across the streak a couple of times, wipe off and check to see that the streak is removed. Repeat only if necessary until the streak is removed. If you are very gentle, it should not affect the CQUK underneath. However you can verify this by putting water on that area and checking to make sure it is still crazy hydrophobic.


Thanks for the info Tad, But what casues the streaking? Also do you have a picture of how that looks lol?
If i wiped it so many freaking times.... due to the oily holos. I really shouldnt have any high spots at all

DARK HORSE
10-01-2014, 03:34 PM
Thanks for the info Tad, But what casues the streaking? Also do you have a picture of how that looks lol?
If i wiped it so many freaking times.... due to the oily holos. I really shouldnt have any high spots at all

Ivan, we have to be careful with terminology here. In the eyes of one person, a "streak" may only be an oily smear. Whereas in the eyes of another, a "streak" or darker spot on the paint may indeed be a high spot. In your case, I seriously doubt you have any high spots. High spots are caused by not fully removing the excess product once you've applied it. Full removal is easily accomplished if you follow the 2 MF towel method Corey and others have outlined. This is why I seriously doubt you have any high spots.

Mark
10-01-2014, 03:40 PM
What do I know?, but what I'm guessing is that when only a small amount of product is sprayed onto a panel, that in those areas where the product has been deposited onto the panel that the product is quickly soaking in, and somehow penetrating into whatever it is being applied on top of?

Or, maybe that in such areas where the product has been deposited, there is high spots being caused, and which are proving not all that easy to level? (Unlike simpler detail sprays which spread=apply more easily?)

Seems that perhaps such is not all that uncommon, as application issues can arise with other brands of Spray Coatings such as Detailer's Pro, Pinnacle, and perhaps many others made. That high spots need to be addressed quickly, otherwise left unattended problems of evenness of coating can arise.

I gather that Corey's explanation of dilution, and then liberally, and evenly coating an entire panel, not just a couple squirts per panel then addresses this, thus then giving a more even application without possibility of streaking? I'm thinking I got some of this mostly correct?
Mark

Mark
10-01-2014, 11:59 PM
Short Update:
Earlier this afternoon, I wrote Autogeek to request a cancel of the return of my Reload v2014.
I've decided to keep it, and work with it.

A few thoughts of the matter, and the product:

I didn't buy Reload, or pretty much any other Carpro product to protect a 14 year old Junker Kia Spectra, I bought all of them to protect-maintain my pristine '97 Tahoe with only 39K on the Odo. And whatever new beater-mobile daily driver that might come along my way (and hopefully soon)then the qualities of Carpro products will be embellished upon it.

If this was the only slight shortcoming I've found, a slight oiliness, that seems to be addressed-removed by a damp MF wipedown, and no other qualities are effected, like durability, and protection, especially those shown in the new video, with Reset, APC, and Spotless washdowns, and still holding strong after all that, then I'm mighty darn impressed with what this product can do!

If we can be assured of this much, then I am satisfied with the product!

Yeah, me, hopefully, and God willing, I'll be out there, 80 years old, still detailing. LOL

Me,I collect a decent Pension soon (in 3 months), I'd like the new daily driver to be a Vette maybe not a new one, but a pristine low mileage example. My only hates, are to think what the insurance companies might do to me, even with a perfect driving record the past 25 years?

The Tahoe has yet to be completed with UK. Soon I hope, the weather is getting better here, drier, cooler, I forsee perfect weather ahead for UK, and Reload.

When the time comes, I will report back with my endeavors.

All I can say as I close this post, is thank you Corey, and other folks here, for your input, and good positive advice! I'll too be an eventual Disciple, it takes time, and experience.

PS: This morning I did stop at the local Sally Beauty Supply, bought me another nice little cute Spray Bottle with a full size neck, and adjustable Spray Head.
I have one the same for spraying on Optimum Opti-Bond, works great. Good that if the spray head quits, I can affix another lickety split.

I'll mix up a 1-1 dilution of new Reload&Distilled water soon, and test.

Jimmymack22
10-02-2014, 02:40 PM
I was told to apply reload with a short nap MF and go back for final buff with long nap MF. Is this still the process? It seems you all are saying go with long nap for both steps?

DARK HORSE
10-02-2014, 04:37 PM
I was told to apply reload with a short nap MF and go back for final buff with long nap MF. Is this still the process? It seems you all are saying go with long nap for both steps?

Jimmy, I prefer a long nap towel like the MM Crazy Pile or the CarPro BOA for both steps.

Dr_Pain
10-02-2014, 06:54 PM
Jimmy, I prefer a long nap towel like the MM Crazy Pile or the CarPro BOA for both steps.

http://itotallyagree.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/cropped-screen-shot-2012-04-17-at-11-57-41-pm.jpg

Corey
10-04-2014, 12:02 AM
Short Update:
Earlier this afternoon, I wrote Autogeek to request a cancel of the return of my Reload v2014.
I've decided to keep it, and work with it.

A few thoughts of the matter, and the product:

I didn't buy Reload, or pretty much any other Carpro product to protect a 14 year old Junker Kia Spectra, I bought all of them to protect-maintain my pristine '97 Tahoe with only 39K on the Odo. And whatever new beater-mobile daily driver that might come along my way (and hopefully soon)then the qualities of Carpro products will be embellished upon it.

If this was the only slight shortcoming I've found, a slight oiliness, that seems to be addressed-removed by a damp MF wipedown, and no other qualities are effected, like durability, and protection, especially those shown in the new video, with Reset, APC, and Spotless washdowns, and still holding strong after all that, then I'm mighty darn impressed with what this product can do!

If we can be assured of this much, then I am satisfied with the product!

Yeah, me, hopefully, and God willing, I'll be out there, 80 years old, still detailing. LOL

Me,I collect a decent Pension soon (in 3 months), I'd like the new daily driver to be a Vette maybe not a new one, but a pristine low mileage example. My only hates, are to think what the insurance companies might do to me, even with a perfect driving record the past 25 years?

The Tahoe has yet to be completed with UK. Soon I hope, the weather is getting better here, drier, cooler, I forsee perfect weather ahead for UK, and Reload.

When the time comes, I will report back with my endeavors.

All I can say as I close this post, is thank you Corey, and other folks here, for your input, and good positive advice! I'll too be an eventual Disciple, it takes time, and experience.

PS: This morning I did stop at the local Sally Beauty Supply, bought me another nice little cute Spray Bottle with a full size neck, and adjustable Spray Head.
I have one the same for spraying on Optimum Opti-Bond, works great. Good that if the spray head quits, I can affix another lickety split.

I'll mix up a 1-1 dilution of new Reload&Distilled water soon, and test.

Great post Mark! My sincere honest opinion - putting myself in the shoes of any owner of the current Reload batch. Oh wait! I'm the owner of a lot of it! Anyway, no way in hell I would return it. It's super easy to avoid streaks by simply using enough and as you stated a damp mf removes any film effortlessly!!

HERES the most important part - functionally the product is insane... After my testing the other day we got a good rain... What did I find? Not tight DOME beads... I'm talking tight spheres! Like the beads are standing on a point. The contact angle is almost unbelievable and the gloss is outrageous.

ChrisDA
10-04-2014, 02:49 AM
I have 5 liters of the "New" Reload and I'm a little confused as to why with the "New" version you should need to apply more product and take an extra step to get it off. Where as the older version went on and came off perfectly, with no hassles. As a business owner of a high-end detail shop this annoys me a little as I feel I need to spend more on product as I am using more and have to take an extra step to remove it. This is backwards in my opinion, not forwards as the "New Version" should be going. I still have about a third of a liter of the older version and I'm using it wisely as I'm dreading using the new version again.

HOWEVER, from my understanding Corey and Avi are working on this issue and as ALWAYS... they come through..

EVOlved
10-04-2014, 03:45 AM
I have 5 liters of the "New" Reload and I'm a little confused as to why with the "New" version you should need to apply more product and take an extra step to get it off. Where as the older version went on and came off perfectly, with no hassles. As a business owner of a high-end detail shop this annoys me a little as I feel I need to spend more on product as I am using more and have to take an extra step to remove it. This is backwards in my opinion, not forwards as the "New Version" should be going. I still have about a third of a liter of the older version and I'm using it wisely as I'm dreading using the new version again.

HOWEVER, from my understanding Corey and Avi are working on this issue and as ALWAYS... they come through..

I agree, not that I am into it as you are with 5 liters of the product on hand. But since it is a "more concentrated" formula, you would assume you would need less if anything. All things considered I still wouldn't blink an eye at purchasing it, if I had a need for it.

From Corey's post up above it does almost leave me wondering when I run through the last of my Sonax PNS if Reload may be the next product I try. It just leaves me the durability question since PNS is mainly my definitive winter solution at this point (car is a DD and driven in rough NY winter conditions and I don't have the luxury of much of a garage to detail in during this time frame) and I have yet to find anything that beads and self cleans as well as it does. So it will be on my short list if I don't end up coating it next year or renewing my subscription to PNS.

ChrisDA
10-04-2014, 04:25 AM
I agree, not that I am into it as you are with 5 liters of the product on hand. But since it is a "more concentrated" formula, you would assume you would need less if anything. All things considered I still wouldn't blink an eye at purchasing it, if I had a need for it.

From Corey's post up above it does almost leave me wondering when I run through the last of my Sonax PNS if Reload may be the next product I try. It just leaves me the durability question since PNS is mainly my definitive winter solution at this point (car is a DD and driven in rough NY winter conditions and I don't have the luxury of much of a garage to detail in during this time frame) and I have yet to find anything that beads and self cleans as well as it does. So it will be on my short list if I don't end up coating it next year or renewing my subscription to PNS.

Even though I have my "issues" with the new version it most certainly is the best sealant on the market that I have tried and will not go to another product. I will have to make this work, I'm just annoyed it's taking more steps than before.

Corey
10-04-2014, 04:32 AM
I have 5 liters of the "New" Reload and I'm a little confused as to why with the "New" version you should need to apply more product and take an extra step to get it off. Where as the older version went on and came off perfectly, with no hassles. As a business owner of a high-end detail shop this annoys me a little as I feel I need to spend more on product as I am using more and have to take an extra step to remove it. This is backwards in my opinion, not forwards as the "New Version" should be going. I still have about a third of a liter of the older version and I'm using it wisely as I'm dreading using the new version again.

HOWEVER, from my understanding Corey and Avi are working on this issue and as ALWAYS... they come through..

Claude did a great review explaining well the need for more product. FIRST I dilute this one 50/50 which I NEVER did in my life before so even though you spray more product you are still spending the same $.

Next, the reasoning for spraying more is it simply seems to work better likely because it gives you more time to spread even and buff in and off.

As always no need to dread it :) it's super easy to use - only the slight hologram issue is valid and is very easily removed with a damp towel wipe for perfection.
Also I'll accept a return in a heartbeat if the added 5 minutes per car is a problem for anyone :) 5 minutes extra per car to have even stronger hydrophobics, gloss and durability isn't a bad compromise.

Ivan Wong
10-05-2014, 01:37 AM
So it is time to report back... I work a 65+ Hours/Week
I have been busy working on my Mini Cooper on my weekends. Anyways, I diluted 4oz of Reload to 4oz of Distilled water.

I liberally sprayed the entire panel i was working on, spread and buff off. 2 Towels BOA was used.....
After what i thought was good enough, i inspect with my Flex light, still Oily holo all over.

Spray my towel and saturated with distilled water to wipe off the oil holos, it still took a WHILE to get everything nice and clean. but it does work..... The towel needs to be REALLY DAMP in order to remove those oil holo. I had to spray more water on the towel and each and every section.

I have always been a carpro fan, but this 2014 Reload really disappoint me.
Doesn't water effect the durability on freshly applied reload?

Also.... if possible. I would like to get a "FIXED FORMULATION" bottle of reload to replace this one.....

DARK HORSE
10-05-2014, 02:41 AM
Hi Ivan, no water will not affect durability at all, as Reload is water based . Currently there is no reformulation of Reload. However as always, if you are unhappy for any reason with any product purchased from CarPro-US a full refund will be promptly made. If you so choose, please send Corey and email and he will take care of you.

Mark
10-05-2014, 01:16 PM
I finally did finish CQ UK'ing the outside of my Tahoe yesterday. Was a beautiful bluebird day with a high of 82F.

As you can imagine, doing polishing/etc on the Roof is lots of work. Up and down off ladders is tedious.

First the wipe down, and Clay.
Needed to do some minor scrubbing around the Roof Rack Attachment Points and Plastic Runners with some diluted APC and a small Detail Brush to remove some past Sealant Residues. Done.

I started out trying to remove a few very light random isolated deeper sleeks (RIDS) on the front that were probably never fully removed from the last paint correction, and again it seemed that Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover was proving a bit ineffective. I switched to Wolfgang Uber Compound-White LC Pads and got better results. The rest of the roof didn't require such correction it appeared.

Then the entire Roof was done with WG Finishing Glaze (which is said to be similar to Menzerna SF4000), and white pads. The GG 3" DA was proving quite ineffective between the protective runner strips. So, I switched backing plates down to 3.5" on the PC DA and continued on with 4" Orange LC Hydro Tech Pads.

All was looking pretty good at that point. Out came the Eraser, and used two Autogeek Pumpkin MF Towels (one each side), and was ready to go with the CQ UK Application.

Again, application was easy, but as you can imagine, applying CQ onto White Paint is of course like any other product, where it is hard to see where you've applied, so thus it calls for a good deal of over-lapping to insure full coverage. One might then use more product, but no harm done of course. Being under the Carport, I found I was almost laying my head on the roof to see the application from a sideways angle, and of course had to take mental notes of where I stopped, and where again to begin every time I had to come down off the Ladder to move it around the vehicle.

I did not toy with separately later doing the Roof Rack with something like CQ DLX, both the Paint, and the entire Roof Rack was coated with CQ UK. With all the little nooks and crannies on the 6 Roof Rack Attchment Points I simply went back at the end with a CQ MF Suede Applicator wrapped around my Gloved Index Finger.

Wipe down as I went was done with a AG Pumpkin Towel again, medium nap, nice, but not as luxurious-thick as the Boa Towels. One Towel sufficed for the Roof.

After the Roof was done, then onto the basic same processes on the lower side Rocker Panels beneath the Side Molding Trim which was not done previously, WG Finishing Glaze on a White LC Pad, then wipe down prep with Eraser. Was a wonderful change up being off that ladder for a bit! Again, UK was effortless-easy to apply.

Broke for lunch, and ran one short errand in town, let the truck sit a good 1-1/2 hours for UK to initially set up, then here comes the icing on the cake, the application of Reload v2014 diluted 1-1 ratio. For this I used again another clean AG Pumpkin Towel, I did liberally apply as Corey and others have suggested.

By the time I was done applying to the Roof, the Towel was pretty saturated. Still, all seemed to go well with applying to paint, and the Roof Rack also. As each side was done, I simply went back with a CP Boa for a final wipe.

All looked great, and if there was any oiliness left behind it was difficult to see upon White Paint, and the 1-1 Dilution probably lessened such from occurring. All looked even, and the Roof Rack looked fantastic and all pieces now had a super slick feel to them. Very happy how that turned out.

At that point, I felt no immediate need to do any further follow-ups with a dampened MF Towel, figuring I'd rather let the Reload further set up, plus I also thought since I just applied CQ UK, better to not use any water near the truck until all is completed cured.

My goals/priorities at this point in time, were the consideration of applying the thickest film layer upon the paint, letting them do their thing, without further molesting their intended jobs.

Perhaps in about 12 days I'll again do a full detail, as I am thinking of UK Coating the 4 Door Jambs, Tailgate, to use the remainder of this first UK Bottle as far as it will go before it turns to glass.

And while on the subject, it should be noted that I have about 3/8" to almost a 1/2" remaining UK in the larger 50ml Bottle.

Considering that I coated all exterior Paint on this '97 Tahoe, the Roof Rack, Rear Corner Trim Pieces, and four brand new 22" Chrome Denali Factory Repro wheels both in an out, I'd say I have gotten some very good use from this sole bottle. At about $54 for this bottle from Corey when it was on sale, I think the purchase was worth every penny!
Mark

Mark
10-05-2014, 01:27 PM
Before finishing yesterday, I had some time left, so I did also clean-treat of all 4 Chrome Wheels, and did a PERL Dressing on the Nitto Rubber.

Just a simple clean water wipe down with a bucket of water-MF Towel, then applied Reload v2014 at the 1-1 ratio with a new cheapo Wally World MF Towel. Worked beautifully on the Chrome Wheels.
Mark

Corey
10-05-2014, 10:08 PM
Thanks for the feedback Mark! Nice work!!

Mark
10-06-2014, 04:07 PM
Thanks for the feedback Mark! Nice work!!

Lots of work with the prep, but at this point I can step back and say it was worth it.

Mark
10-13-2014, 09:00 PM
Did some further testing and experimenting on the 2001 Kia Spectra yesterday and today.

I washed the Car with DG901, wiped with CP Eraser and applied Reload v2014 diluted 1-1. Used one towel to apply, and came back with a dampened Towel to do a final wipe.

Didn't seem that Oily yesterday, and then yesterday afternoon and last night after this detail we had some brisk winds and this morning the car was of course coated in a nice layer of brown dust.

Doing a finger swipe, I still seen the oiliness even more today after the car sat in the sun this morning. It seems that the sun has something to do with Reload turning oily.

I came home from work washed the car down again with DG901, and I could not get rid of the oily smearing no matter what.

Trying to think what would rid the paint of this oiliness, a light came on. I've been in this situation 20 years ago back in 1994 with my then new Black Lincoln Town Car, and a horrid result with the wally world blue liquid Zymol. Same deal, the Zymol looked like I waxed my car with Crisco.

I remember what solved the issue back then, and I had the exact same good results today with the Kia.

What got the Oily Film off right now, and completely without one smidgen of a trace left? Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.

Yep, I had to go old school, and just like before, Collinte products left the paint with a rich deep lustrous hue and look, nice slippery finish, yet absolutely no oily films left behind.

Even the glass was done with Reload, it too was filmy but the Collinite took care of all the glass as well.

Now as for the Collinite 845 removing the layer of Reload that was previously applied, I honestly cannot say?

After a lot of work, and still less than stellar results again with the new Reload, I'm going to have to conclude that in my personal use, this Formula just isn't cutting it, that this oily smeariness is a inherit flaw that just cannot be gotten around and rectified. At least on dark colors. I suspect the issue is present on all colors, just not as easily seen. For sure, I thought a full blown wash down with shampoos would have removed the oilyness. Nope.

I may still return the one unused bottle to AG for credit-refund. I'll see what they say? Perhaps I'll reconsider the use of Reload again after a possible updated future reformulation? As for now, this one is just too much work, and am not getting the results I seek no matter what.
Mark

Dr_Pain
10-13-2014, 09:04 PM
That's a bummer Mark! Just for general info. Do you have any temp/humidity levels for application and during the sun exposure!?!

Mark
10-13-2014, 09:40 PM
That's a bummer Mark! Just for general info. Do you have any temp/humidity levels for application and during the sun exposure!?!

Sure, temp highs today are at 68F, and humidity is said to be 18%. Yesterday was a bit warmer, in the mid 70's, basically same humidity levels, last night a cold front must've came through with the winds, overnight temps were probably in the low-mids 50's.

This sort of weather is what I consider ideal for detailing, and of course I never do any paint processes like washing, or any LSP applications to warm-hot paint in direct sunlight.

Only one thing I ever do, or ever have done in direct sunlight on any vehicle, is shampoo interiors and/or carpeting, I won't even touch glass in direct sun due to smearing-streaking usually occurring.

I think I mentioned this before, and since my Tahoe now has a full coat of UK on board, I do have a reasonable amount of the old Reload Formula left on hand. Probably enough that should I choose to dilute it, it should last me through the year 2015 if I use it wisely, and just for the Tahoe's paint upkeep.

I'm of the belief that once going with CQuartz, "Keep it in the family" so to speak, with nothing but CP Products to maintain.

The Kia has always been my little test bed for all products before going on the Tahoe. The Tahoe's paint, and body is basically immaculate. Doubt you'll ever find a cleaner, more pristine '97 in the whole country, unless somebody bought one, croaked, and left it in a garage since. Or in Jay Leno's collection, which I'm sure to Jay this Tahoe is less valuable to him than a Yugo, or a VW "Thing" because those probably have more collectability and value.


I never did such fussy testing and never placed the older formula under such scrutiny, but I have a good detailing eye, I think I would've noticed this quickly with the older formula. I myself saw no such issues with v2013.
Mark

Mark
10-15-2014, 04:55 PM
Sorry Corey/All, but I did ship back my two bottles of Reload to A-Geek earlier this morning.

It just wasn't working out for me, and felt it senseless to hang onto it.

As for any possible future re-formulations of Reload, I myself don't believe that just a simple dilution of v2014 will be the cure-fix for the smeary-oily tendencies. It might be as you say, some additional component-ingredient was added?
Mark

Corey
10-15-2014, 06:06 PM
Sorry Corey/All, but I did ship back my two bottles of Reload to A-Geek earlier this morning.

It just wasn't working out for me, and felt it senseless to hang onto it.

As for any possible future re-formulations of Reload, I myself don't believe that just a simple dilution of v2014 will be the cure-fix for the smeary-oily tendencies. It might be as you say, some additional component-ingredient was added?
Mark

Mark, we are working on it and will announce here as soon as we have updated the Reload stock with the corrected formula. As for ordering from that store you would have to speak with them about products you purchase from them. I don't have any connection or knowledge of their stock or plans.

Mark
10-15-2014, 10:44 PM
Mark, we are working on it and will announce here as soon as we have updated the Reload stock with the corrected formula. As for ordering from that store you would have to speak with them about products you purchase from them. I don't have any connection or knowledge of their stock or plans.

Thank you Corey! This little "hiccup" of course does not mean I'm down, and out with Carpro, quite the contrary.

Have lots of Carpro products on hand right now, full unopened litres of Reset, Eraser, PERL, Iron-X, Spotless, unopened 50ml Bottle of UK, and other smaller bottles of many of the products I mentioned above.

The beloved Tahoe is now essentially a Carpro protected Vehicle, but I have more to do!

Never mentioned this, but last week cleaned up the Kia Spectra's interior. The Upholstery was all good, but all plastic was looking a bit cruddy.

Autogeek gave me a free 2oz Bottle of Blackfire Interior Cleaner with my last order of basically all the Carpro Goods mentioned above, and set out to clean things up. The Blackfire Cleaner worked nicely, a lot of dirts came off all panels.

Then did all Panels, the Dash, and all Plastic with PERL at 1-1 ratio. Looks really great! Dry to the touch, very lustrous look, and no dust seems to be accumulating. (which is a real problem here)

The Tahoe will be the next candidate for the PERL Treatment on all interior Panels, and since I have Leather Seats in the Tahoe, I think they should get PERL'd also. Betcha they'll glow! ;-)

Thanks again Corey!
Mark