The good and the bad , My personal review CQUK

[krazygraphics]

As of now my 2014 Jeep Cherokee is all done other than the roof. I will make a list of some things I did notice.

#1 making the paint look deeper / darker ? Didn't see this in mine at all ( My Jeep is a darker color so maybe that is why ) ?
#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax
#3 I still see streaking marks in it from wipe down, for the life of me I can not get any smear marks off the car unless I use ( ERASER ) < CAN this be used as a detailer ??

( I just took a drive with some water on my hood doing about 50MPH and the water is still on the hood ) What could cause this ?

At no time did I take any short cuts during the process , I probably spent about 6 hours doing the whole job over 2 days.

I also tried the ( scratch the paint test ) I saw this on a youtube video , unfortunately I took a chip out of my paint.

Not sure what I could have done wrong during this procedure but at this point I must say it's NOT what I thought it would be sadly.

[Dr_Pain]

You do know that UK does become fully cured over time, right? I could be wrong but I remember a conversation about 30 days.

Is it 6hrs today from wash to clay decontamination and IronX decontamination, to polishing, and coating?? If you skipped any of the prior steps you may be left with contaminants which would indeed interfere with the 'departure angle'. Contaminants do increase surface friction which may explain the lack of flying beads. Other reason I could speculate would be aerodynamics of the area you were observing. Please share some close up pics of beads and if you can a driving video with beads on the hood so we can see the 'behavior'. If it has been a while you coated then it may be time for Reset or IronX and Reset?!?

[fdresq4]

FWIW,

We just CQUK my buddys wif's Pathfinder and I have it sitting in my garage for 24 hours. I thought it needed "curing time."
As far as the streak marks, what and how did you remove the UK? We followed Corey's and others suggestions on application and removal with no issues.

The only issue we had was with the Reload but Dr. Claude cleared that up.

Steve

[krazygraphics]

You do know that UK does become fully cured over time, right? I could be wrong but I remember a conversation about 30 days.

Is it 6hrs today from wash to clay decontamination and IronX decontamination, to polishing, and coating?? If you skipped any of the prior steps you may be left with contaminants which would indeed interfere with the 'departure angle'. Contaminants do increase surface friction which may explain the lack of flying beads. Other reason I could speculate would be aerodynamics of the area you were observing. Please share some close up pics of beads and if you can a driving video with beads on the hood so we can see the 'behavior'. If it has been a while you coated then it may be time for Reset or IronX and Reset?!?

Hello , 6 hours was for the CQUK only ..

I did it in the following steps ( after clay bar )

Washed the car with normal wash , washed it again with IronX .. Let ironX sit on it for a while then washed it lightly with a sponge.
Used ERASER
CQUK , once I got this wiped down I did the Reload
Complete

What would you suggest I use to get the wipe marks off ? Can Eraser be used as a detailer spray without having to use reloader ?

[krazygraphics]

FWIW,

We just CQUK my buddys wif's Pathfinder and I have it sitting in my garage for 24 hours. I thought it needed "curing time."
As far as the streak marks, what and how did you remove the UK? We followed Corey's and others suggestions on application and removal with no issues.

The only issue we had was with the Reload but Dr. Claude cleared that up.

Steve

Was removed with suede cloth , Also I did it panel by panel .. I wanted to make sure I took my time and didn't skip over anything.
I used a grand total of 18 16x16 suede cloths , again I just wanted to make sure I did it right.

[Mark]

DSCN0500.jpgDSCN0503.jpgDSCN0502.jpg

Six hours seems like a hellishly long time just to apply the final coating?

When I did the bottom of my '97 Tahoe, meaning Hood, 4 Doors, Front Fenders, Rear Quarters, and Rear Tailgate, I don't think it took me more than 40 minutes, and while I didn't time the application, I actually think it was closer to a 1/2 hour from start to finish.

It went very fast for me, I had good temps to apply, and while I tried thinking of tips, either Corey's, with his video, and other's experiences, I pretty much went about it with the seat of my pants.

Used the CP Foam Block, and cut some 8"x8" CP MF Suede Sheets into 4"x4" size.

I applied to each panel, smoothed in a recommended cross hatch pattern both ways, once that was accomplished, all looked really well at that point, under bright lights flashing occurred quite evenly, and it really looked so smooth and level, it was like I almost felt like I didn't even have to come behind with anything else.....but of course I did. I simply wiped each panel with a regular short nap MF Towel immediately after each panel was coated .

By the time I walked around the truck, I had about another 1/2 hour or so wait, before applying Reload over the top. Just simply walked around the truck again with the bottle of Reload, and a CP Boa Towel

At around the 2 hour mark after application, I did experiment with a scratch test with my fingernails, first very lightly, and then gradually harder and harder, and was both surprised, and completely satisfied with how hard a finish I just laid down on my truck.

On 17 year old paint, the choice of CQ UK had a few good reasons, figuring my paint surely wasn't getting any younger, I wanted a product that would last, that I didn't have to continually monkey with the paint every few months. And the other was a desire for greater mar resistance.

I have noted with other products I've used, and the need of me having to use a Covercraft NOAH Cover, I was noticing marring occurring due to the winds, and dusts in combination with the Cover rubbing.

No other sealant or wax I've ever used prior seemed to have such hardness, and mar resistance, so I think I made a very wise choice with UK.

White is a very hard color to showcase gloss, depth, and the beauty of a finish, but trust me when I say the finish on this vehicle didn't stun as much as even when the keys were placed in my hands back in 1997. These three pictures can't do justice as to how good the finish looks.

Of course, the hard work was the prep, a good 6 hour's worth on those panels I previously mention.
Sure wish I had a garage, I would've quit for the day with the prep, and then did the coating the following day. I was quite burnt out when the coating went on, but all went beautifully, and was quite easy in my experience.
Mark

[Cooter]

What size kit did you buy and how much was left in the bottle when you were done?

[ChrisDA]

DSCN0500.jpgDSCN0503.jpgDSCN0502.jpg

Six hours seems like a hellishly long time just to apply the final coating?

When I did the bottom of my '97 Tahoe, meaning Hood, 4 Doors, Front Fenders, Rear Quarters, and Rear Tailgate, I don't think it took me more than 40 minutes, and while I didn't time the application, I actually think it was closer to a 1/2 hour from start to finish.

It went very fast for me, I had good temps to apply, and while I tried thinking of tips, either Corey's, with his video, and other's experiences, I pretty much went about it with the seat of my pants.

Used the CP Foam Block, and cut some 8"x8" CP MF Suede Sheets into 4"x4" size.

I applied to each panel, smoothed in a recommended cross hatch pattern both ways, once that was accomplished, all looked really well at that point, under bright lights flashing occurred quite evenly, and it really looked so smooth and level, it was like I almost felt like I didn't even have to come behind with anything else.....but of course I did. I simply wiped each panel with a regular short nap MF Towel immediately after each panel was coated .

By the time I walked around the truck, I had about another 1/2 hour or so wait, before applying Reload over the top. Just simply walked around the truck again with the bottle of Reload, and a CP Boa Towel

At around the 2 hour mark after application, I did experiment with a scratch test with my fingernails, first very lightly, and then gradually harder and harder, and was both surprised, and completely satisfied with how hard a finish I just laid down on my truck.

On 17 year old paint, the choice of CQ UK had a few good reasons, figuring my paint surely wasn't getting any younger, I wanted a product that would last, that I didn't have to continually monkey with the paint every few months. And the other was a desire for greater mar resistance.

I have noted with other products I've used, and the need of me having to use a Covercraft NOAH Cover, I was noticing marring occurring due to the winds, and dusts in combination with the Cover rubbing.

No other sealant or wax I've ever used prior seemed to have such hardness, and mar resistance, so I think I made a very wise choice with UK.

White is a very hard color to showcase gloss, depth, and the beauty of a finish, but trust me when I say the finish on this vehicle didn't stun as much as even when the keys were placed in my hands back in 1997. These three pictures can't do justice as to how good the finish looks.

Of course, the hard work was the prep, a good 6 hour's worth on those panels I previously mention.
Sure wish I had a garage, I would've quit for the day with the prep, and then did the coating the following day. I was quite burnt out when the coating went on, but all went beautifully, and was quite easy in my experience.
Mark

30mins, I don't think so. Certainly not properly on a vehicle that size.

[krazygraphics]

What size kit did you buy and how much was left in the bottle when you were done?

30ml , I got about 1/3 left ..My whole roof on my jeep is a sunroof so hardly was used up top at all.

I might have went overboard on the time, but I took my time and went over it really good as if it was a Lamborghini !

[Mark]

30mins, I don't think so. Certainly not properly on a vehicle that size.

I didn't time myself with a stopwatch, but was keeping basic time, due to wanting to know what time I started, and when it would then be OK to begin Reload application.
I allowed one hour.

I did not dawdle, I went quickly, and did carefuly insure overlapping, so that no areas were missed. I would guess took me no longer than 3-4 minutes to apply UK to the smaller panels and I wasn't really rushing the application, I applied similarly to like Corey's Vid shows.

And how long I let UK sit before wiping wih a towel, was about the time it took for me to place the bottle of UK and applicator on a bench, walk the few feet, then pick up the MF Towel to wipe and smooth. Vaguely about 10-14 seconds time would pass after I was assured each panel was fully coated with product. I did not rub like crazy,just a smooth light straight line wipe on each panel.

Keep in mind I had done the roof about a week or so before, that was of course the hardest because the truck is tall.

I wasn't about to take a chance by letting UK sit too long before I began smoothing because I was worried about dragging, and smearing the finish. I could see the product had basically flashed, smoothed and leveled all by itself before coming behind and wiping.

Now, with that being said, you think I should've let UK sit longer before wiping?

I would imagine that time "might" be a variable due to temps, and humidity levels.

If you want to figure in the time it previously took to coat the whole roof and add the two times together, then I would say the total time for the CQ UK Application on the Tahoe took roughly an hour's time. I did also coat he Tail Lights, and the Rear Corner Plastic Panels as well, and all was good with that also.

Temps I think were about 70f degrees.