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Thread: Route to UK3.0

  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    Route to UK3.0

    Hi guys, I’m fresh on here and just working my way around my Pure Grey VW GTi TCR. I’ve about got it corrected with Scholl S20. I feel I can perhaps get a bit more out of the paint as I have a slight haze under the lamp.

    I’m interested in opinions around Essence, Eraser, then views on CQUk 3.0, Gliss and SIC (or a combination of those)

    I’m in UK and doing a garage application. I have questions around whether it is worth going eraser after Essence and whether it will do any harm or even necessary. Them views on the coating combinations or is UK 3.0 all I need with reload

    Any experience would be appreciated
    Many thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member The Guz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ashtons99 View Post
    Hi guys, I’m fresh on here and just working my way around my Pure Grey VW GTi TCR. I’ve about got it corrected with Scholl S20. I feel I can perhaps get a bit more out of the paint as I have a slight haze under the lamp.

    I’m interested in opinions around Essence, Eraser, then views on CQUk 3.0, Gliss and SIC (or a combination of those)

    I’m in UK and doing a garage application. I have questions around whether it is worth going eraser after Essence and whether it will do any harm or even necessary. Them views on the coating combinations or is UK 3.0 all I need with reload

    Any experience would be appreciated
    Many thanks
    Seen your post on another forum. Essence will remove any haze left over. Sometimes using the same polish with a finer pad can also remove it. I recommended to try S20 that way to see if that helps with any remaining hazing from the cutting step.

    As far as the coatings UK is a staple and is proven to perform well. You can stop here as it’s not required to apply Gliss or SiC over it.

    Gliss and SiC will not only add slickness but will aid in adding some anti water spotting.

    SiC will be more durable as it’s a true coating which can be used as a stand alone or as a topper. It will do better against chemical resistance. One thing to keep in mind is the flash time where Gliss hazes when it’s time to be removed.

    Think of Gliss as a 1 year application of Reload. Reload has been known to not be the most durable and masking the hydrophobic behavior. After 1-2 washes it loses its hydrophobic behavior. I only use Reload on customers cars as an insurance I protect the coating during the coatings curing time frame.

    Reload is not needed if using Gliss or SiC as a topper. Maintain either with Elixer.



    When it comes to using Eraser with Essence these two snapshot should help. It’s still recommended to do a light wipe-down with Eraser.




  3. #3
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    Thanks very much for that.

    I ended up ordering from Slims last night UK 3.0, Gliss, Essence and Eraser. You’ve answered my question about the need for eraser in your post

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