Assembling purchase list for first detail/CQuartz experience

S

Scarcer

New member
I originally posted this to reddit.com/r/autodetailing but then discovered this forum and realized that I would likely get much better help.

First up I've been meaning to get some paint protection on my fiance's 2017 Suburu Impreza Sport in red since I bought it last year. I was considering CeramicPro but I did more research as my apt. got closer and decided to cancel. Decided to save $1k and do it myself up at my parent's ranch since I can't do it at my place. If it turns out easy enough, I'll go ahead and do some more advanced paint repair on my '10 mazda and coat it.

I need some help finalizing my shopping list and detail/application method.

Starting fresh on supplies, not sharing with my folks at the ranch due to the nature of the the equipment.

I've 'narrowed' down the shopping list to the following:

Wash & Detox:
  1. Foam wash: IK 1.5 pump foam sprayer
  2. Shampoo: CarPro Reset 500ml (using for detail & maintenance)
  3. 2x Microfiber Mitts (plan on having the S.O. help)
  4. Wheel scrubbing: Long handle boars hair brush
  5. Decon: CarPro Trix
  6. Embeds: Clay bar (may have one on hand.)
  7. Towels: Cheap microfiber towels (on hand)
  8. Hard Water: Spotless 500ml

Paint Correction:
  1. AIO Compound: CarPro Essence Extreme 500ml
  2. Machine: Porter Cable 7424XP w/6" dual action plate
  3. Towel: 5x Carpro blue 2 face 16"
  4. Finishing pad: 5 foam (+1 in kit)
  5. Cutting pad: 1 foam (+1 & 2 diff pads in kit)
  6. Small spaces: 5k/7k grit sandpaper
  7. Light: Cheap multi LED flashlight

Coating:
  1. Clean/Prime: Eraser (skeptical though as CarPro claims Essence Ext is a CQuartz primer when machined + fills in stubborn imperfections)
  2. Base coat: CQuartz UK 3.0 30ml
  3. Extra/2nd coat: CQuartz UK 3.0 50ml
  4. Windshield: CarPro Flyby30
  5. Wheels: CarPro Delux
  6. Top coat: CarPro Gliss 50ml
  7. Applicators: 10 spare 4" suede
  8. Towel: 5x Carpro orange 2 face 16"
  9. Gloves: Powder free nitrile

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Methods:

Wash:
  1. Foam canon with Reset, let sit & set up buckets
  2. Scrub wheels
  3. Use mitten to scrub the car down
  4. Rinse, repeat wash as necessary
  5. Quick dry with micro-fiber towel
  6. Spot spray IronX on body, wheels, wipe off.
  7. Clay bar
  8. Final quick wash, dry thoroughly

Correction:
  1. Polish with Essence
  2. Very light spot test first (spray iso to clean fillers and check effort needed)
  3. Continue & wipe off panel by panel
  4. Clean remaining deep scratches with solvent/iso
  5. Cover scratches with touch up paint pen (2 coats min so it's level).
  6. Dry with heat gun.
  7. Re-polish scratches after an hour.
  8. Get a fresh set of eyes to double check with LED

CQuartz
  1. Move to opened door garage
  2. Use eraser (Before Flyby30 on windows for sure, not sure about over Essence)
  3. Use spare microfiber to wipe off settled dust/polen, panel by panel
  4. Spot test applicator+suede to apply CQuartz UK 3.0 to section in cross hatch pattern.
  5. Let flash, fold towel & first wipe with thick side, finish with flat side.
  6. Proceed panel by panel.
  7. Begin 2nd layer no less than an hour later

Essentially the same for the Gliss, DLUX and Flyby30. How ever a you-tuber experimented and found that Gliss lasts longer if you don't cross-hatch during application?

I'll probably take Corey's advice though and stick to applying one coat at a time rather than applying DLUX/Flyby30 between CQuartz applications.

So... what am I doing wrong? Like brewing beer, everyone wants to reinvent the wheel and add a different spin to their process even though the laws chemistry don't change. I don't necessarily want to do that, so I put everything out in detail here for scrutiny.

**6/9 Massive edit, cleaned shopping list, etc. There is so much to cover for a weekend warrior, I'm sure I forgot to include something.**
 
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First of all welcome to the forum.

I will post this link which has good information and the process that works for me.

https://carproforum.com/showthread....between-FIXER-and-CQuartzUK&p=20747#post20747

As far as what you need. I would say get some good quality towels. I see you mention cheap towels under your wash section. A lot of defects happen during the wash process so having good quality towels are a must. Cheaper towels can scratch.

I don't own a foam pump sprayer and sure you can do use that. Just seems like it takes more time than taking out the traditional buckets and foaming with a foam gun or foam cannon.

Scarcer said:
Wash & Detox:
  1. Foam wash: IK 1.5 pump foam sprayer
  2. Shampoo: CarPro Reset 500ml (using for detail & maintenance)
  3. 2x Microfiber Mitts (plan on having the S.O. help)
  4. Wheel scrubbing: Long handle boars hair brush
  5. Decon: CarPro Trix
  6. Embeds: Clay bar (may have one on hand.)
  7. Towels: Cheap microfiber towels (on hand)
  8. Hard Water: Spotless 500ml
Click to expand...

I will do my best to help you breaking it down section by section. I have not used a pump sprayer and I really don't see the benefit of it. I have seen videos of it where the shampoo dries up half through. I would stick with a foam canon or foam gun if you wish to have some sort of foam wash.

Having good wash mitts and good towels are a must. Cheaper types can marr and scratch the finish. I would look into the rag company for some quality drying towels. For example the twist n shout and the twistress are good options for drying. Costco towels are good for door jambs, under the hood, wheels, tires. Essentially the dirty jobs. They can actually scratch the finish. TRC offers their edgeless 300 and edgless 245's which are good options as well for those areas.

As far as wheel brushes, the wheel woolies are nice to have as they can get into the barrel of the wheel. The wheel woolie wheel brush is nice for the face of the wheels. I would recommend a good tire brush and that would be the tuf shine tire brush with a good tire cleaner.

You may or may not need spotless. It is going to be a case by case option if you do.

If you do't have a clay bar there are clay alternatives as well. These will save you time and do just as good as clay.

Scarcer said:
Paint Correction:
  1. AIO Compound: CarPro Essence Extreme 500ml
  2. Machine: Porter Cable 7424XP w/6" dual action plate
  3. Towel: 5x Carpro blue 2 face 16"
  4. Finishing pad: 5 foam (+1 in kit)
  5. Cutting pad: 1 foam (+1 & 2 diff pads in kit)
  6. Small spaces: 5k/7k grit sandpaper
  7. Light: Cheap multi LED flashlight
Click to expand...

The porter cable is a nice machine to start out with. Easy to use and does a good job. Just takes a little longer than some of the newer DA's. Another one to consider is the Griot's Garage DA. Has more power than the PC and a warranty option that users like to have. I would also get a 5 inch backing plate with either tool to take advantage of the tools power.

Essence is an primer polish that offers some correction and leaves a layer of SIO2 on the surface with fillers. It works best with a polishing pad or CarPro Gloss Pad. If you need more correction I would go to Clear Cut with some sort of cutting pad (either foam or microfiber).

The carpro towels are nice. I would recommend them as well as the edgeless 365 towels from the rag company.

Lighting is also key and there are many good ones. My personal favorite that works every time is the scangrip hand held. Must have in my opinion.

I would also skip and sanding especially if you have never done it before. Get yourself a test hood from the junkyard and practice before taking it to the paint.

Good thread on the number of pads needed

https://www.autogeekonline.net/foru...-how-many-pads-do-i-need-buff-out-my-car.html

Scarcer said:


Coating:
  1. Clean/Prime: Eraser (skeptical though as CarPro claims Essence Ext is a CQuartz primer when machined + fills in stubborn imperfections)
  2. Base coat: CQuartz UK 3.0 30ml
  3. Extra/2nd coat: CQuartz UK 3.0 50ml
  4. Windshield: CarPro Flyby30
  5. Wheels: CarPro Delux
  6. Top coat: CarPro Gliss 50ml
  7. Applicators: 10 spare 4" suede
  8. Towel: 5x Carpro orange 2 face 16"
  9. Gloves: Powder free nitrile
Click to expand...


Essence is a primer polish if used by hand or machine. It will also fill in some defects. Deeper defects will not get filled. I would still recommend using an eraser wipe with Essence as a precaution that all it's polishing oils are removed to allow the coating to bond properly. If you let the car sit overnight the SiO2 in it will cure leaving less oils behind.

2 coats of UK is perfect. Be sure to wait 45-60 mins after the first coat. 30 ml's is plenty for the size vehicle you are working on. You could actually use UK for wheels as well if you choose to go with the larger 50ml bottle.

DLUX works good on wheels. Can also be used on trim and plastic. Can also be used over Essence.

I would look at getting FlyByForte over FlyBy30 as it will last longer. Fairly straight forward to apply.

Gliss is easy to work with. It flashes quick so you will have to figure out what works for you. Be sure to wait at least 4 hours before putting it over UK.

As far as towels, the carpro towels are nice. I also like the edgeless 300's from the rag company. They are both good choices for coating removal.

With regards to maintenance washes. Well foaming with a foam cannon or foam gun is personal preference. The two bucket wash method is good to do. Good wash mitts are important. You also don't want to scrub when using a wash mitt. You want a light swipe and not constantly swipe one area. One swipe is good enough to agitate the surface.

Drying with good quality drying towels is also important as I mentioned before. I would recommend getting yourself some Ech20 and mixing it at 1:20 and use that as a detail spray. You can use it on all surfaces as a drying aid or to touch up the surface. Reload is optional as well from time to time.

My best advice is to don't overthink it. Keep it simple.
 
I recommend getting a better LED flashlight and keeping it in the car. You can use it not only for paint correction but also in any other emergency situation. Most people rely on their phones and think if something happens, their phone will be there to act like a flashlight. But it’s not always the case, and you must take as many precautions as possible. That’s why you might need a good portable LED flashlight that you could keep in your car and rapidly find in an emergency. It’s not fun to be in the dark in the middle of the road and not know what to do.
 
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