Cquartz on a boat?
- Thread starter gta88ws6
- Start date
DARK HORSE
Certified Finest Installer
Yes, either "Classic" or "UK" are both great choices for gel coated boats. Either will work great!! Don't know about increased mph's though...
steve.soule.10
New member
Go with UK and prep as you would on a car. The better your prep the longer your application will last.
As for speed. Probably not. Super smooth surfaces are not always going to increase speed.
I have coated a handful of boats but with protection and ease of maintenance as the motivator. And appearance I guess.
.
As for speed. Probably not. Super smooth surfaces are not always going to increase speed.
I have coated a handful of boats but with protection and ease of maintenance as the motivator. And appearance I guess.
.steve.soule.10
New member
I would recommend a light polish after gentle clay if you are working on a high quality gel coat. I am a big fan of HD speed as an AIO for boats. Rotary or DA.
If there isn't much oxidation, maybe just clay then eraser to prep but if you want best finish....
If there isn't much oxidation, maybe just clay then eraser to prep but if you want best finish....
steve.soule.10
New member
Sorry. Missed the life expectancy Q. Lots of factors but in your control as detailer, prep makes a huge difference, conditions the boat sees, and of course care after. Hopefully the customer will wash.
I think well beyond 1 year if prepped and applied well. I don't have a great long term test to say for sure.
I think well beyond 1 year if prepped and applied well. I don't have a great long term test to say for sure.
As far as extra speed is concerned, I doubt it will make a major difference. There is a considerable difference between a neglected surface vs a freshly polished surface. I have a 19' Skeeter. When new without the trolling motor and batteries it would run 74 mph on a lightly rippled surface and 70 mph on glass. It was squirrely, tended to dance around and chine walk pretty bad at those speeds. There is only about 12" of the hull touching the water at those speeds. After 8 years of neglect, the pad was rough/dull feeling. It stuck to the water and dropped the speed to about 63 mph. I had the hull polished at the boat dealer and was back into the low 70's again. I'm hoping to polish it myself this spring and coat with Cquartz. I will post back if I see a measurable difference.
Sent from my phone when I should be working.
Sent from my phone when I should be working.
DapperDon
New member
I coated my 30' Sea Ray with Marine 31 coatings and no, it did not improve any speed. What it does do is make the wash down afterwards VERY easy. I think that to do an entire boat with CQuartz would be like taking on another mortgage payment though, that stuff isn't cheap once you see how much you need to do 2 coats on the entire hull and not just the exposed sides from a trailer. About 2 or 3 times a year, I get my boat over to the marina so they can get it up on sticks to do maintenance and so I can do a full detail. Now, as far as HD products are concerned, while they may work great on cars, but gelcoat is another animal completely. I do not believe that HD has the punch needed to actually penetrate through gelcoat to do any correction or polishing. I have used Marine 31 and Megs Marine line of products exclusively because of just that very reason. You have the right ideas, just the wrong products for your application.
So I pit down a single coat of cquk on this 2013 Phoenix and it seems to have taken very well
The single coat seems to feel (during wipe on and off) the same as clear coat paint.
It also is much slicker after about an hour of cure time than regular car paint also.
Gloss is very good too, I'm excited to see it in the daylight in a day and a half when it's fully cured!
Sent from my HTC6535LVW
The single coat seems to feel (during wipe on and off) the same as clear coat paint.
It also is much slicker after about an hour of cure time than regular car paint also.
Gloss is very good too, I'm excited to see it in the daylight in a day and a half when it's fully cured!
Sent from my HTC6535LVW
DARK HORSE
Certified Finest Installer
Looks great, good job! Be sure to give it plenty of time before getting it wet or washing it. With boats, I tell my clients to wait at least 5 days before putting it in the water, and at least 7 days before washing with soap.
DapperDon
New member
This turned out very nice. Are you doing the underside of the hull as well?
P
Praetorian
Guest
I've been using Carpro products on my 50' Carver for 2 seasons now
I've used CQUK on my boat for 2 seasons now, with this upcoming summer being season 2. I store my boat in a heated building for the winter and do all the detailing there where it's 10 degrees Celcius. UK's temperature range allows me to do this.
Gelcoat:
Last winter I compounded the gelcoat using Sea-Shield's polishes, applied Erasor and then 2 coats of CQUK. The first coat needs to go on fairly thick as it just absorbs right in "appearing" to flash immediately. After you've filled the pores, it goes on a little more as you've seen in car videos. I did have some issues with light, not always being able to see streaks until I got it outside a few months later. I only did the superstructure the first winter.
This past winter I used Essence to prep, then topped with CQUK. I used a Rupes Bigfoot and MF cutting pad with Essence. I highly recommend this product and process. I'll say that my gelcoat is in very good condition, I'm almost fanatical about it. If yours is in worse shape, you may need a stronger compound before the Essence. I did have a few areas that needed more, and used Sea-Shield #2 Cut&Polish with a Flex rotary and a wool pad, followed by the Essence. Essence goes on quickly and does a fantastic job, I've never seen gloss on a boat like this EVER. As an added bonus, I used much, much less CQUK to coat. I did the whole hull and superstructure this year.
Plastic windows (Strataglass, vinyl, and Stamoid):
I have a hard top so no canvas roof, but I do have removable windows. I cleaned them with Ultima Waterless wash (diluted), then distilled water and finally Reload. Reload works extremely well, better than any other product I've used. It keeps water spots minimized better than anything else and keeps my white Stamoid clean. The Stamoid looks the same this winter as it did last year when I applied Reload the first time. No other product has been able to do that for me.
Stainless Steel:
I used Sea-Shield Metal Polish (similar to Flitz), then followed up with 2 coats of CQUK.
Acrylic wing doors and shower doors:
I used Essence this year and the results are almost dangerous. I've now had 2 people walk right into the closed door if that explains how clear it is.
Fly by Forte:
It didn't work last winter. The temperature wasn't warm enough for it to flash, so I used my old Sea Shield Glass Polish. I did apply FlybyForte last fall, but have no idea how well it's worked yet.
Summer / Weekly Maintenance:
I bought a small pressure washer, the ARBlue AR118, that I can keep on the boat all the time. I added a foam cannon, and use Chemical Guys Honeydew Snowfoam. I wet the boat, soap with the foam cannon and then wash with a Microfibre Madness wash mitt and rinse. I wash at least once per week, more if it's rained or during pollen season. I used only about 1/2 gallon of CG Honeydew, which suprised me because I bought 5 gallons and was not frugal with it. The foam cannon had the advantage of putting a soap that clung to the vertical surfaces long enough to wash it and rinse. Many other methods just run off quickly. As an added bonus, the lubricity is a big advantage on the sensitive vinyl. I would wet, soap, agitate,rinse each side starting with the transom, port side, bow, starboard side. Then I start drying in the same order. I use Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy last year and there is NOTHING better, especially on the vinyl. If there are any water spots because it got too dry before I got drying, I use diluted Ultima waterless wash or Distilled water. I prefer distilled water on the vinyl windows.
Every 8 weeks or so I used Hydro 2 between the rinse and dry stage. It added only a few minutes to the wash routine. I may have done it more often than needed but it was so easy, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. I could see improved beading even after 2 weeks so I'm glad I did. The cost is insignificant compared to the saved time and energy. I went through about 1/2 liter of Hydro2, so really not that much considering I get 1MPG in fuel economy
The results:
Black streaks were drastically diminished, and most of them could be wiped off with a dry finger. The remaining streaks, which were rare, washed off with soap and water. Previously I'd have to go with a cleaner wax on areas, especially the transom, weekly.
My treated windows left fewer water spots than untreated windows and made cleaning them easier.
I also polished the interior of the bridge with CQUK. I have a Chesapeake Bay Retriver that loves the water but is prone to ear infections. When he gets them he shakes so hard that his ears bleed and spray micro drops of blood everywhere. They're so small you can't see them until they dry and the sun browns them. Previously these required the buffer to get out, after I can just wipe them off with Ultima WW or water.
I also used Carpro Leather coating on my bridge seating. It completely prevented any staining from my dogs oily coat that almost destroyed the seating the previous summer.
I've used CQUK on my boat for 2 seasons now, with this upcoming summer being season 2. I store my boat in a heated building for the winter and do all the detailing there where it's 10 degrees Celcius. UK's temperature range allows me to do this.
Gelcoat:
Last winter I compounded the gelcoat using Sea-Shield's polishes, applied Erasor and then 2 coats of CQUK. The first coat needs to go on fairly thick as it just absorbs right in "appearing" to flash immediately. After you've filled the pores, it goes on a little more as you've seen in car videos. I did have some issues with light, not always being able to see streaks until I got it outside a few months later. I only did the superstructure the first winter.
This past winter I used Essence to prep, then topped with CQUK. I used a Rupes Bigfoot and MF cutting pad with Essence. I highly recommend this product and process. I'll say that my gelcoat is in very good condition, I'm almost fanatical about it. If yours is in worse shape, you may need a stronger compound before the Essence. I did have a few areas that needed more, and used Sea-Shield #2 Cut&Polish with a Flex rotary and a wool pad, followed by the Essence. Essence goes on quickly and does a fantastic job, I've never seen gloss on a boat like this EVER. As an added bonus, I used much, much less CQUK to coat. I did the whole hull and superstructure this year.
Plastic windows (Strataglass, vinyl, and Stamoid):
I have a hard top so no canvas roof, but I do have removable windows. I cleaned them with Ultima Waterless wash (diluted), then distilled water and finally Reload. Reload works extremely well, better than any other product I've used. It keeps water spots minimized better than anything else and keeps my white Stamoid clean. The Stamoid looks the same this winter as it did last year when I applied Reload the first time. No other product has been able to do that for me.
Stainless Steel:
I used Sea-Shield Metal Polish (similar to Flitz), then followed up with 2 coats of CQUK.
Acrylic wing doors and shower doors:
I used Essence this year and the results are almost dangerous. I've now had 2 people walk right into the closed door if that explains how clear it is.
Fly by Forte:
It didn't work last winter. The temperature wasn't warm enough for it to flash, so I used my old Sea Shield Glass Polish. I did apply FlybyForte last fall, but have no idea how well it's worked yet.
Summer / Weekly Maintenance:
I bought a small pressure washer, the ARBlue AR118, that I can keep on the boat all the time. I added a foam cannon, and use Chemical Guys Honeydew Snowfoam. I wet the boat, soap with the foam cannon and then wash with a Microfibre Madness wash mitt and rinse. I wash at least once per week, more if it's rained or during pollen season. I used only about 1/2 gallon of CG Honeydew, which suprised me because I bought 5 gallons and was not frugal with it. The foam cannon had the advantage of putting a soap that clung to the vertical surfaces long enough to wash it and rinse. Many other methods just run off quickly. As an added bonus, the lubricity is a big advantage on the sensitive vinyl. I would wet, soap, agitate,rinse each side starting with the transom, port side, bow, starboard side. Then I start drying in the same order. I use Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy last year and there is NOTHING better, especially on the vinyl. If there are any water spots because it got too dry before I got drying, I use diluted Ultima waterless wash or Distilled water. I prefer distilled water on the vinyl windows.
Every 8 weeks or so I used Hydro 2 between the rinse and dry stage. It added only a few minutes to the wash routine. I may have done it more often than needed but it was so easy, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. I could see improved beading even after 2 weeks so I'm glad I did. The cost is insignificant compared to the saved time and energy. I went through about 1/2 liter of Hydro2, so really not that much considering I get 1MPG in fuel economy
The results:
Black streaks were drastically diminished, and most of them could be wiped off with a dry finger. The remaining streaks, which were rare, washed off with soap and water. Previously I'd have to go with a cleaner wax on areas, especially the transom, weekly.
My treated windows left fewer water spots than untreated windows and made cleaning them easier.
I also polished the interior of the bridge with CQUK. I have a Chesapeake Bay Retriver that loves the water but is prone to ear infections. When he gets them he shakes so hard that his ears bleed and spray micro drops of blood everywhere. They're so small you can't see them until they dry and the sun browns them. Previously these required the buffer to get out, after I can just wipe them off with Ultima WW or water.
I also used Carpro Leather coating on my bridge seating. It completely prevented any staining from my dogs oily coat that almost destroyed the seating the previous summer.
DARK HORSE
Certified Finest Installer
I've used CQUK on my boat for 2 seasons now, with this upcoming summer being season 2. I store my boat in a heated building for the winter and do all the detailing there where it's 10 degrees Celcius. UK's temperature range allows me to do this.
Gelcoat:
Last winter I compounded the gelcoat using Sea-Shield's polishes, applied Erasor and then 2 coats of CQUK. The first coat needs to go on fairly thick as it just absorbs right in "appearing" to flash immediately. After you've filled the pores, it goes on a little more as you've seen in car videos. I did have some issues with light, not always being able to see streaks until I got it outside a few months later. I only did the superstructure the first winter.
This past winter I used Essence to prep, then topped with CQUK. I used a Rupes Bigfoot and MF cutting pad with Essence. I highly recommend this product and process. I'll say that my gelcoat is in very good condition, I'm almost fanatical about it. If yours is in worse shape, you may need a stronger compound before the Essence. I did have a few areas that needed more, and used Sea-Shield #2 Cut&Polish with a Flex rotary and a wool pad, followed by the Essence. Essence goes on quickly and does a fantastic job, I've never seen gloss on a boat like this EVER. As an added bonus, I used much, much less CQUK to coat. I did the whole hull and superstructure this year.
Plastic windows (Strataglass, vinyl, and Stamoid):
I have a hard top so no canvas roof, but I do have removable windows. I cleaned them with Ultima Waterless wash (diluted), then distilled water and finally Reload. Reload works extremely well, better than any other product I've used. It keeps water spots minimized better than anything else and keeps my white Stamoid clean. The Stamoid looks the same this winter as it did last year when I applied Reload the first time. No other product has been able to do that for me.
Stainless Steel:
I used Sea-Shield Metal Polish (similar to Flitz), then followed up with 2 coats of CQUK.
Acrylic wing doors and shower doors:
I used Essence this year and the results are almost dangerous. I've now had 2 people walk right into the closed door if that explains how clear it is.
Fly by Forte:
It didn't work last winter. The temperature wasn't warm enough for it to flash, so I used my old Sea Shield Glass Polish. I did apply FlybyForte last fall, but have no idea how well it's worked yet.
Summer / Weekly Maintenance:
I bought a small pressure washer, the ARBlue AR118, that I can keep on the boat all the time. I added a foam cannon, and use Chemical Guys Honeydew Snowfoam. I wet the boat, soap with the foam cannon and then wash with a Microfibre Madness wash mitt and rinse. I wash at least once per week, more if it's rained or during pollen season. I used only about 1/2 gallon of CG Honeydew, which suprised me because I bought 5 gallons and was not frugal with it. The foam cannon had the advantage of putting a soap that clung to the vertical surfaces long enough to wash it and rinse. Many other methods just run off quickly. As an added bonus, the lubricity is a big advantage on the sensitive vinyl. I would wet, soap, agitate,rinse each side starting with the transom, port side, bow, starboard side. Then I start drying in the same order. I use Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy last year and there is NOTHING better, especially on the vinyl. If there are any water spots because it got too dry before I got drying, I use diluted Ultima waterless wash or Distilled water. I prefer distilled water on the vinyl windows.
Every 8 weeks or so I used Hydro 2 between the rinse and dry stage. It added only a few minutes to the wash routine. I may have done it more often than needed but it was so easy, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. I could see improved beading even after 2 weeks so I'm glad I did. The cost is insignificant compared to the saved time and energy. I went through about 1/2 liter of Hydro2, so really not that much considering I get 1MPG in fuel economy
The results:
Black streaks were drastically diminished, and most of them could be wiped off with a dry finger. The remaining streaks, which were rare, washed off with soap and water. Previously I'd have to go with a cleaner wax on areas, especially the transom, weekly.
My treated windows left fewer water spots than untreated windows and made cleaning them easier.
I also polished the interior of the bridge with CQUK. I have a Chesapeake Bay Retriver that loves the water but is prone to ear infections. When he gets them he shakes so hard that his ears bleed and spray micro drops of blood everywhere. They're so small you can't see them until they dry and the sun browns them. Previously these required the buffer to get out, after I can just wipe them off with Ultima WW or water.
I also used Carpro Leather coating on my bridge seating. It completely prevented any staining from my dogs oily coat that almost destroyed the seating the previous summer.
Wow, what a great post! Thank you for sharing, I'd love to see some pictures!
steve.soule.10
New member
I've used CQUK on my boat for 2 seasons now, with this upcoming summer being season 2. I store my boat in a heated building for the winter and do all the detailing there where it's 10 degrees Celcius. UK's temperature range allows me to do this.
Gelcoat:
Last winter I compounded the gelcoat using Sea-Shield's polishes, applied Erasor and then 2 coats of CQUK. The first coat needs to go on fairly thick as it just absorbs right in "appearing" to flash immediately. After you've filled the pores, it goes on a little more as you've seen in car videos. I did have some issues with light, not always being able to see streaks until I got it outside a few months later. I only did the superstructure the first winter.
This past winter I used Essence to prep, then topped with CQUK. I used a Rupes Bigfoot and MF cutting pad with Essence. I highly recommend this product and process. I'll say that my gelcoat is in very good condition, I'm almost fanatical about it. If yours is in worse shape, you may need a stronger compound before the Essence. I did have a few areas that needed more, and used Sea-Shield #2 Cut&Polish with a Flex rotary and a wool pad, followed by the Essence. Essence goes on quickly and does a fantastic job, I've never seen gloss on a boat like this EVER. As an added bonus, I used much, much less CQUK to coat. I did the whole hull and superstructure this year.
Plastic windows (Strataglass, vinyl, and Stamoid):
I have a hard top so no canvas roof, but I do have removable windows. I cleaned them with Ultima Waterless wash (diluted), then distilled water and finally Reload. Reload works extremely well, better than any other product I've used. It keeps water spots minimized better than anything else and keeps my white Stamoid clean. The Stamoid looks the same this winter as it did last year when I applied Reload the first time. No other product has been able to do that for me.
Stainless Steel:
I used Sea-Shield Metal Polish (similar to Flitz), then followed up with 2 coats of CQUK.
Acrylic wing doors and shower doors:
I used Essence this year and the results are almost dangerous. I've now had 2 people walk right into the closed door if that explains how clear it is.
Fly by Forte:
It didn't work last winter. The temperature wasn't warm enough for it to flash, so I used my old Sea Shield Glass Polish. I did apply FlybyForte last fall, but have no idea how well it's worked yet.
Summer / Weekly Maintenance:
I bought a small pressure washer, the ARBlue AR118, that I can keep on the boat all the time. I added a foam cannon, and use Chemical Guys Honeydew Snowfoam. I wet the boat, soap with the foam cannon and then wash with a Microfibre Madness wash mitt and rinse. I wash at least once per week, more if it's rained or during pollen season. I used only about 1/2 gallon of CG Honeydew, which suprised me because I bought 5 gallons and was not frugal with it. The foam cannon had the advantage of putting a soap that clung to the vertical surfaces long enough to wash it and rinse. Many other methods just run off quickly. As an added bonus, the lubricity is a big advantage on the sensitive vinyl. I would wet, soap, agitate,rinse each side starting with the transom, port side, bow, starboard side. Then I start drying in the same order. I use Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy last year and there is NOTHING better, especially on the vinyl. If there are any water spots because it got too dry before I got drying, I use diluted Ultima waterless wash or Distilled water. I prefer distilled water on the vinyl windows.
Every 8 weeks or so I used Hydro 2 between the rinse and dry stage. It added only a few minutes to the wash routine. I may have done it more often than needed but it was so easy, I decided it was better to be safe than sorry. I could see improved beading even after 2 weeks so I'm glad I did. The cost is insignificant compared to the saved time and energy. I went through about 1/2 liter of Hydro2, so really not that much considering I get 1MPG in fuel economy
The results:
Black streaks were drastically diminished, and most of them could be wiped off with a dry finger. The remaining streaks, which were rare, washed off with soap and water. Previously I'd have to go with a cleaner wax on areas, especially the transom, weekly.
My treated windows left fewer water spots than untreated windows and made cleaning them easier.
I also polished the interior of the bridge with CQUK. I have a Chesapeake Bay Retriver that loves the water but is prone to ear infections. When he gets them he shakes so hard that his ears bleed and spray micro drops of blood everywhere. They're so small you can't see them until they dry and the sun browns them. Previously these required the buffer to get out, after I can just wipe them off with Ultima WW or water.
I also used Carpro Leather coating on my bridge seating. It completely prevented any staining from my dogs oily coat that almost destroyed the seating the previous summer.
That's one heck of a serious maintenance regimen. I'm sure this boat is in amazing condition.