cquartzUK question

aquarianuw

New member
I applied the regular cquartz a couple of years ago and yesterday I repolished using Essence and recoated the rear of the car using cquartzUK. 2 coats I applied. My question is, if the coating is fully cured after 24 hours, can I still put another layer over it, giving the car is still in the garage and clean? Will it still bond to the cured coating?View attachment 791
 
I applied the regular cquartz a couple of years ago and yesterday I repolished using Essence and recoated the rear of the car using cquartzUK. 2 coats I applied. My question is, if the coating is fully cured after 24 hours, can I still put another layer over it, giving the car is still in the garage and clean? Will it still bond to the cured coating?View attachment 791

Yes, definitely.
 
Thanks guys. Another question for you pros. Today when I was applying the 3rd layer, the garage got warmer to about mid 70's. So it flashed much quicker than normal and waiting about 3 minutes was a little too long in certain areas. The haze was unremovable even with Reload. I decide to "clean" the area with Klasse AIO and it removed the haze in no time.

Did Klasse just remove my cquartz completely (I doubt) and why would it remove all hazed cquartz so effortlessly?


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Klasse may not be the best choice since it has its own protection abilities. Just a light finish polish should work great but even after using a finish polish I still like to do another layer of cquartz.
 
PWP is correct. A finishing polish on a wax applicator by hand should knock down any streaking or high spots with one pass after 24hrs. If you want to re-coat the area(s), wipe down with Eraser and reapply. Any kind of AIO may introduce silicone and/ or polymers that are 'unfriendly' to the bonding of a coating.

And to your question regarding '...Did Klasse just remove my cquartz completely (I doubt) and why would it remove all hazed cquartz so effortlessly?'

Just about any polish will knock down excessive residue or high spots after a short 24hrs. have passed because of the chemical cleaners (majority of time- carrier solvents) and mechanical cleaners (abrasives) of the liquid, plus mechanical action of the media (pad/ towel), + force applied, and THE BIG idea- 24hrs. is not enough time for the coatings' chemical structure to fully cure/ bond/ adhere to the substrate (underlying paint system) even if all panels were baked with an IR lamp. Thus, the 'soft' nature of the uncured coating + the polish = deleted residue/ streaks/ high spots. So, I would absolutely re-coat said area(s) to be absolutely sure the AIO did not remove the underlying coating.

Best regards,
-Gabe
 
Thanks so much. I believe Klasse AIO has neither silicone nor polymers. It has acrylic, but would that affect bonding of the cquartzUK?

After I used Klasse AIO, I did apply Reload to the area. The Reload was beading like crazy. If I wanted to recoat cquartz again, should I do another wipe-down with Eraser or I can just go straight to it?

PWP is correct. A finishing polish on a wax applicator by hand should knock down any streaking or high spots with one pass after 24hrs. If you want to re-coat the area(s), wipe down with Eraser and reapply. Any kind of AIO may introduce silicone and/ or polymers that are 'unfriendly' to the bonding of a coating.

And to your question regarding '...Did Klasse just remove my cquartz completely (I doubt) and why would it remove all hazed cquartz so effortlessly?'

Just about any polish will knock down excessive residue or high spots after a short 24hrs. have passed because of the chemical cleaners (majority of time- carrier solvents) and mechanical cleaners (abrasives) of the liquid, plus mechanical action of the media (pad/ towel), + force applied, and THE BIG idea- 24hrs. is not enough time for the coatings' chemical structure to fully cure/ bond/ adhere to the substrate (underlying paint system) even if all panels were baked with an IR lamp. Thus, the 'soft' nature of the uncured coating + the polish = deleted residue/ streaks/ high spots. So, I would absolutely re-coat said area(s) to be absolutely sure the AIO did not remove the underlying coating.

Best regards,
-Gabe
 
You should prep the area with Eraser if it is your intention to reapply CQUK. In order for CQUK to work as engineered, you should layer it on properly prepped painted surface or on itself. Anything else would chance failure in the product working as designed.
CQUK is superior to the other products mentioned, as far as protection ( in my opinion). You can apply RELOAD as a topper an hour after applying CQUK if your car is going to be exposed to rain within 24 hours. I have done it but prefer 30 days later.

Check out this sticky...
http://carproforum.com/showthread.php?4190-CQUK-Questions-Answered-Here&p=16431#post16431

Steve
 
Thanks. Today while cleaning my windows, I found out that using the Costco glass cleaner would remove cquartzUK as well! Maybe not as easily as using Klasse AIO, but it works with some buffing. I guess the cquartz is not completely cured yet and many things could potentially remove it for now.


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From the sticky...

3.- DO NOT use any harsh chemicals, APC's, Iron X, Trix, or Tar X for the first 30 days. If using TarX after 30 days, do not allow a long dwell time or rub excessively hard.

Therevis a cure time.
 
Really appreciate the input, guys. Let's say you are removing the high spots/haziness using Essence, do you still need to use Eraser, before coating again? Today I just did that on a small spot using Essence and a 3" waxing pad and it was super easy. Absolutely no rubbing at all.

N06c7013.jpg
 
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