DLux on new powder coated wheels?

[okcookie]

I will be receiving a new shipment of powder coated wheels very soon. I plan to apply DLux to them before installing them on my car. I am wondering: what is the proper procedure for applying DLux to brand new wheels? What is the proper procedure for prepping brand new powder coated wheels for the application? Should I do an IPA whipedown? How do I prep the wheels and how should I properly apply DLux to them? Does it matter that they're powder coated? Thanks!

 

[Dr_Pain]

Personally I would:

1) IronX (chemical decontamination) to assure no metal particle would interfere with the bonding process
2) A quick claying (mechanical decontamination) because even brand new rims (especially the barrel) may have handling "junk"
3) I would do a quick hand polishing (with a polishing compound)
4) 2 Eraser wipe downs to be on the safe side (wear gloves and use a few towels)
5) Apply DLUX or UK as per instructions.

P.S. If you apply DLUX, do not overwork the product because it will dull out the final look. If you apply UK, you can layer a couple of coats to increase the gloss. Apply it around lunch time and stick those rims in the full sun for an hour or so (sun baking them will increase the hardness and gloss.... that is why we bake our coatings

 

[okcookie]

Personally I would:

1) IronX (chemical decontamination) to assure no metal particle would interfere with the bonding process
2) A quick claying (mechanical decontamination) because even brand new rims (especially the barrel) may have handling "junk"
3) I would do a quick hand polishing (with a polishing compound)
4) 2 Eraser wipe downs to be on the safe side (wear gloves and use a few towels)
5) Apply DLUX or UK as per instructions.

P.S. If you apply DLUX, do not overwork the product because it will dull out the final look. If you apply UK, you can layer a couple of coats to increase the gloss. Apply it around lunch time and stick those rims in the full sun for an hour or so (sun baking them will increase the hardness and gloss.... that is why we bake our coatings

Awesome! Great advice! The wheels are gloss black and very shiny. Would you suggest that I use UK instead of DLux?


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[Dr_Pain]

Awesome! Great advice! The wheels are gloss black and very shiny. Would you suggest that I use UK instead of DLux?


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Gloss black I would definitely go with UK and do 2 or even 3 coats of the barrel and face. Just make sure you allow enough flash time between coats to get a true layering effect You know you gonna need to share some pics after you are done

You can see a step-step pictorial in the detailing I did on this Porsche Panamera. I did use Finest as part of the coating of the wheels because it is just INCREDIBLE but I would have used the UK if I did not have Finest available. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.764595300269513.1073741862.140247069371009&type=3

 

[Avi@CP]

Be careful when using IronX on freshly powder coated wheels. !
if they are just made i would pass this decon step , ironx might affect the powder coated paint.
if the wheels are clean both dlux and cquk would seal them well.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Be careful when using IronX on freshly powder coated wheels. !
if they are just made i would pass this decon step , ironx might affect the powder coated paint.
if the wheels are clean both dlux and cquk would seal them well.

That is good to know Avi. I've never had an issue with IronX but would be interested in knowing what reaction it would have with the powder coat?

 

[okcookie]

Be careful when using IronX on freshly powder coated wheels. !
if they are just made i would pass this decon step , ironx might affect the powder coated paint.
if the wheels are clean both dlux and cquk would seal them well.

Avi, what would you consider "freshly coated"? My wheels are being formed then coated at the factory, then shipped to me. So they will have been powder coated within a week of me coating them with UK. Is that too soon to use Iron-X? Do you think there's any reason to do a mechanical decon step (clay bar) if the wheels are completely brand new? Or should an IPA and Eraser whipedown be enough?

Thank you to both of you for your replies and help! This forum is amazing.

 

[Corey]

There is no reason to iron x or clay the brand new finish of boxes wheels. Eraser a couple times should remove any oils from rags and handling. Just make sure nothing was applied by the factory such as a sealant which I would highly doubt.

I would go UK rather than Dlux for this.

 

[okcookie]

There is no reason to iron x or clay the brand new finish of boxes wheels. Eraser a couple times should remove any oils from rags and handling. Just make sure nothing was applied by the factory such as a sealant which I would highly doubt.

I would go UK rather than Dlux for this.

Thanks, Corey!


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[Corey]

Thanks, Corey!


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My pleasure bud! One other thing was just thinking about. To be absolutely safe I would check with the manufacturer how long they recommend to let cure before applying any protective products over the finish.

 

[okcookie]

My pleasure bud! One other thing was just thinking about. To be absolutely safe I would check with the manufacturer how long they recommend to let cure before applying any protective products over the finish.

I talked to the wheel manufacturer. They suggested that I don't use alcohol to clean them. Will Eraser still be safe then? They suggested I let the wheels cure for another week after they arrive.


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[Corey]

Interesting... That puts a kink in our plans. One of eraser ingredients is alcohol so according to him he's saying not to use it.

I have about an ounce left of something (not on the market) in my garage I'll send you if I have to but I'm curious... Any chance you could ask him what he would suggest to remove any residue without imparting anything onto the surface?

Or perhaps ask them the process to ensure that nothing oily or waxy has had the opportunity to touch it. In that case a wet microfiber followed by a dry MF Wipedown should do since they are brand new and boxed and haven't had enough time to develop any oxidation being only a week old and out of the elements.

 

[Dr_Pain]

Hey Corey, do you know by any chance what Avi was talking about with IronX and new powdercoating? The methodology (which I know is an overkilled process) is what I have used in the past and NEVER had a single issue and was wondering how IronX could be harmful!?! As a matter of fact I would love to know how Eraser could be harmful as well, since this is my primary method to clean the surface prior to coating.

I know you mentioned that there is no reason to do a clay process but the last NEW powdercoating coating I did, I did use a light clay and removed some "junk" which I could only describe as shop overspray (and that was after a good initial wash down). I guess it sat in a busy shop prior to being shipped out or something. Don't get me wrong it was EXTREMELY minor but...

 

[okcookie]

So, I'm not entirely convinced that the rep I spoke with knows what he's talking about when it comes to the whole process. I don't think there's anything special or unusual about their powder coating, so the typical approach should probably still apply.


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[Dr_Pain]

So, I'm not entirely convinced that the rep I spoke with knows what he's talking about when it comes to the whole process. I don't think there's anything special or unusual about their powder coating, so the typical approach should probably still apply.


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That is what I was thinking also however never really spoken to a rep at length about the process and "special needs". My thought was by the time powder coating was BAKED it was cured and good to go. It is not like uncut clear coat which may need to exgass for 30 days or so before waxing etc... (unless baked post spraying or cut and polished). Anyways, I am subbing to see what the IronX experts will be saying on the subject. Always willing to learn LOL!

 

[okcookie]

That is what I was thinking also however never really spoken to a rep at length about the process and "special needs". My thought was by the time powder coating was BAKED it was cured and good to go. It is not like uncut clear coat which may need to exgass for 30 days or so before waxing etc... (unless baked post spraying or cut and polished). Anyways, I am subbing to see what the IronX experts will be saying on the subject. Always willing to learn LOL!

Well my specific wheels will be powder coated gloss black, so I wonder if there will be a clear on top to give it that gloss? If so, would it then need time to exgas?


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