Florida Resident New to CarPro

Mariner

New member
Good morning everyone. I'm an avid car detailer in Central Florida, and recently discovered CarPro products. I've been using another good brand, but have decided that the shipping fiascos with this particular company make it not really worth it anymore.

I've been wanting to apply a coating to my 2016 4Runner for a long time and finally was able to today. I used CQuartz due to its reputation, and only applied it to the hood and front grille to start as a test portion. Turns out white is a visually unsatisfying color to apply a coating too.. but I'm really looking forward to the hydrophobic qualities.

Anyways, glad to be on here with the rest of ya'll, and I look forward to trying many more CarPro products.
 
Good morning everyone. I'm an avid car detailer in Central Florida, and recently discovered CarPro products. I've been using another good brand, but have decided that the shipping fiascos with this particular company make it not really worth it anymore.

I've been wanting to apply a coating to my 2016 4Runner for a long time and finally was able to today. I used CQuartz due to its reputation, and only applied it to the hood and front grille to start as a test portion. Turns out white is a visually unsatisfying color to apply a coating too.. but I'm really looking forward to the hydrophobic qualities.

Anyways, glad to be on here with the rest of ya'll, and I look forward to trying many more CarPro products.

Welcome, Mariner!

As to your opinion about coatings in a white vehicle, I'm puzzled as to why? I have a white 2015 Tundra, coated with Finest, and my wife's white Impreza, coated with a consumer version and both look amazing. I have received many compliments.
Can you tell us your process prior to applying the coating....deconning, correcting, and polishing?

Thanks!
 
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Welcome, Mariner!

As to your opinion about coatings in a white vehicle, I could not disagree more. I have a white 2015 Tundra, coated with Finest, and my wife's white Impreza, coated with a consumer version and both look amazing. I have received many compliments.
Can you tell us your process prior to applying the coating....deconning, correcting, and polishing?

Thanks!

fdresq4, thank you for the warm welcome.

My process.... I didn't want to make any mistakes before application that would compromise the coatings integrity, so here's the process I followed.

Firstly, a simple wash. Afterwards, I sprayed on the decon liquid that comes with the CQuartz package I had purchased. As I suspected, my spotless and blinding white hood turned into this purple speckled monster. After a few minutes, I agitated with a soapy washpad, and then rinsed. Following the decon, I went over the hood and grille again with both a clay bar and clay mitt, depending on what I deemed was necessary. The baggie test still felt rough even after all this, but thanks to my recently upgraded garage lighting (installed led tubes), I was able to see micro pitting pretty much everywhere... just these teeny tiny specks that you can really only see if you put a light directly over it and squint. Considering I had a windshield replaced last year due to micro pitting, I expected this type of damage.

After claying, I paint corrected using both correcting and finishing polishes. This took about an hour or so on the hood as I had multiple pads to continually swap out. Since my 4Runner paint is that single stage Super White, I was weary of polishing too much, so with the polisher continually moving, I was careful not to over do it.

To remove the polishing oils, I used a coating prep formula from another company. Now with everything bare, I could feel the resistance when trying to wipe my fingers across the paint. I spot cleaned one last time with my coating prep, and went over every inch with an led light to make sure there were no streaks. I could still see micro pitting, but there was nothing I could do about that at this point.

From here, I just followed the instructions on the CQuartz bottle. I cross-hatched the entire hood, then went back and buffed it off. Because of Florida's high humidity, I waited approximately 5-10 minutes before removing. I could feel the resistance in the towel while I wiped so I feel I applied it correctly. After completing the hood, I applied to the grille, then removed accordingly.

Overall, I'm very pleased with the process and application. Once I see how well it performs under water in 2 days, I'll go back and finish the rest of the vehicle. Once done I'll post pics or maybe a video of water application depending on if you can even tell the white is coated. Thanks to CarPro for such a user friendly product.
 
Welcome Dustin to CPF!

:welcome:

Lots of GREAT folks here.
Tell us a little about you.

:CarproRules:

Lots of great info here.
Search is your friend.

IMHO black and white are the two most difficult colors.
Why you ask?
Black requires more maintenance to keep looking nice.
...but when done it should look like a calm pool of water.
White on the other hand should be bright & have a shiny sparkle.
This is obtained with the polishing/preparation step before LSP.
If I may ask what machine/pad/polish did you use before coating?

Blueline said:
I own a silver vehicle and a black vehicle owns me. The black one demands attention, washing, detailing, waxing and an occasional dinner out at a nice restaurant. The silver one demands nothing and it looks just fine. I think the black vehicle is taking advantage of me, and the silver car is more my style. We can go out for a drive without her makeup and she looks fine. If I want to take the black one out, it is three or four hours in the "bathroom" to get ready.
 
Welcome Dustin to CPF!

:welcome:

Lots of GREAT folks here.
Tell us a little about you.

:CarproRules:

Lots of great info here.
Search is your friend.

IMHO black and white are the two most difficult colors.
Why you ask?
Black requires more maintenance to keep looking nice.
...but when done it should look like a calm pool of water.
White on the other hand should be bright & have a shiny sparkle.
This is obtained with the polishing/preparation step before LSP.
If I may ask what machine/pad/polish did you use before coating?

Little about myself... I'm a merchant marine engineer and currently work on an oil tanker on the Delaware River. I got into detailing about 2 years ago when I owned a Ford Raptor, and an Adams Polishes Rep helped nudge me into the detailing world to help keep my Tux Black Raptor in mint condition. Many many and many 100s (thousands actually but I'm too embarrassed to admit that to most people) of dollars later I was hooked.

I traded my Raptor in last year for a 2016 Toyota 4Runner in Super White. Recently we purchased a 2011 Tux Black Ford Fiesta for my wife. Turns out, now we have the best of both color worlds, black and white. Both of our vehicles remain spotless at all times.

I heard about CQuartz from a buddy of mine that details vehicles for a living, and so I made the leap. Today I was able to test the hydrophobic quality of the coating on my hood and honestly... it's incredible. Once I get back from my ship in 3 weeks, I intend to finish polishing and coating my vehicle.

For this time around, all the preparation products I used were Adam's products. Pads, polish, coating prep, everything but the decon that came with my Coating Kit.

With that being said, I'm looking to try more and more CarPro products since they ship right from my home state of Florida and they only take a day to reach me.. instead of 10 :/

I appreciate any advice anybody can offer, as I am here to learn the CarPro way.

Dustin
 
IMHO for a finishing polish to use before applying a CQuartz coating my go-to is Carpro Essence - period.
Now for another product that is Cquartz friendly I recommend Carpro Eraser for removing polish/polishing oils.
Again, IMHO these two products are "The Bomb" for preparing your paint to apply a Cquartz coating.
Add to that some CP Reload and a half dozen CP BOA towels and it makes an outstanding maintenance combo.

Once you get your vehicle's coated I might even suggest making up a batch of "Merlin's Majic Elixir".
 
Then I shall pick up those extra supplies before finishing my coating job. Any other necessities that I should have to start?
 
Hi Dustin,
Merlin covered it.
Some other bases to cover...
Sounds like you have good lighting but more wouldn't hurt. Good lighting is the key to success in spotting streaks or "high spots" on your panels, especially the side ones.
Have a bucket of water with a good All purpose cleaner mixed in so you can throw your m.f. Towels in when removing your coating. The small applicator towels, wrapped around the block will be tossed. The towels you use for leveling the coating will be good as long as you let them soak.
Patience in applying...:cool:
Look forward to seeing the finished product!
Btw, were you in Philly/Camden area while on the Delaware? I live in N.J.
 
Also...
-No soap for 1-7 days
-No harsh cleaners for at least 30 days. Coating will be fully cured after that time.
 
Btw, were you in Philly/Camden area while on the Delaware? I live in N.J.

I fly into Philly and are driven to the ship, wherever it may be at the time. Most of the refineries we pump to are on the Philly/Delaware side, but occasionally we go to Paulsboro in NJ. All the refineries are the same to me... they all suck.

But thanks for the advice everyone, and i'll post up pics of the finished product later on.
 
I fly into Philly and are driven to the ship, wherever it may be at the time. Most of the refineries we pump to are on the Philly/Delaware side, but occasionally we go to Paulsboro in NJ. All the refineries are the same to me... they all suck.

But thanks for the advice everyone, and i'll post up pics of the finished product later on.

Very cool! Looking forward to pics and good luck!
 
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