Dr_Pain
Certified Finest Installer
I've read soooooo many threads on the 2014 V1 "New and Improved" Reload that my head is spinning. A lot of anecdotal and sometimes silly replies and some legitimate complaints. It does seem as though that I was a lot more forgiving of the hiccup Reload sustained in its development. Obviously I would have more realistic expectations having tried so many "New and Improved" products over the years, and realizing the goals CarPro had for the product. It is a lot more concentrated and does have impressive qualities (and longevity), but I will agree that it did depart from the ease of application that Reload 2013 was known for. I did an extensive review of the product, trying to consolidate the information that was out there, but we still have confusions and application questions that remain. Here is my previous thread on the subject: REVIEW: CarPro Reload 2014 "New & Improved"
If you want to start all the way at the beginning, I will direct you to the wash/prep process, which I did as a "How-To" as well HOW-TO: Wash you car like a PRO (using CarPro Reset) but if you just want to concentrate on the Reload portion, just read on! Please note that prep is the key for Reload's longevity!!
The subject vehicle is a 2013 Tuxedo Black Ford Raptor (my daily driver). If you've read the other "How-To", then you know I set out to be "unconventional" with this series of How-To's, and true to form, this How-To will also be unconventional. So what makes it unconventional??
After a thorough cleaning with CarPro Reset (LINK HERE!), the truck was dried and allowed to sit in the sun as I was preparing myself to apply it. I know, a BLACK truck baking in the sun!!!
PRODUCTS USED
One of the biggest complaints about the product was that it would leave some oily holograms. This is not to be confused with people leaving high spots. High spots are due to operator error whereas the oily holograms are due to left over carriers which were hard to completely remove from the paintwork. One of the remedy was to dilute the product, which from what I understand would decrease the "qualities" of the product, so I fundamentally REFUSED to do that (even though it is recommended on dark vehicles). So how does a Pro do it? I can tell you that this Pro got it done through experimentation. I ended up trying 4 different brands of microfiber towels and 3 different naps. I've experimented on all the proposed method and finally found one that was the absolute "end all" (at least for me). Here is, in a picture form, how it worked for me (remember this is FULL strength and in FULL sun!!)
Reload was applied THICK!, as you can see below. It was spread evently with the CarPro Boa and leveled properly to prevent any high spots (which are seen as darkened areas)
What do those "hologram" look like?? It was easy to see them but hard to capture on camera, except if I made the camera out of focus. These are examples of those oily residue
I did try several different MF (wet and dry), and different techniques to remove the oily residue, before settling on the easiest (for me, in FULL sun). I found that using a moderatly damp high quality waffle weave using a slow light touch would remove the residue and followed with the Summit 800 to buff. Did it work?
I also found that using a high intensity light would also show those darn oily streaks, so here is a before and after!
So what kind of "glamor shots" can I share to convince you to use the product??
I know some of you questioned me using it on my matte black vinyl but....
Need more convincing?? How about some bead shots??
Now that is one happy truck!!
Thanks for reading. As usual, I welcome comment, questions and suggestions!
If you want to start all the way at the beginning, I will direct you to the wash/prep process, which I did as a "How-To" as well HOW-TO: Wash you car like a PRO (using CarPro Reset) but if you just want to concentrate on the Reload portion, just read on! Please note that prep is the key for Reload's longevity!!
The subject vehicle is a 2013 Tuxedo Black Ford Raptor (my daily driver). If you've read the other "How-To", then you know I set out to be "unconventional" with this series of How-To's, and true to form, this How-To will also be unconventional. So what makes it unconventional??
- The truck is black and will be Reloaded FULL STRENGTH!
- Reload will be applied in FULL SUN!
- Applied Reload THICK!
After a thorough cleaning with CarPro Reset (LINK HERE!), the truck was dried and allowed to sit in the sun as I was preparing myself to apply it. I know, a BLACK truck baking in the sun!!!
PRODUCTS USED
- Reload 2014V1 LINK HERE!
- CarPro Boa MF towel LINK HERE!
- Microfiber Madness Summit 800 LINK HERE!
- Skyline Waffle Weave Drying Towel LINK HERE!
One of the biggest complaints about the product was that it would leave some oily holograms. This is not to be confused with people leaving high spots. High spots are due to operator error whereas the oily holograms are due to left over carriers which were hard to completely remove from the paintwork. One of the remedy was to dilute the product, which from what I understand would decrease the "qualities" of the product, so I fundamentally REFUSED to do that (even though it is recommended on dark vehicles). So how does a Pro do it? I can tell you that this Pro got it done through experimentation. I ended up trying 4 different brands of microfiber towels and 3 different naps. I've experimented on all the proposed method and finally found one that was the absolute "end all" (at least for me). Here is, in a picture form, how it worked for me (remember this is FULL strength and in FULL sun!!)
Reload was applied THICK!, as you can see below. It was spread evently with the CarPro Boa and leveled properly to prevent any high spots (which are seen as darkened areas)
What do those "hologram" look like?? It was easy to see them but hard to capture on camera, except if I made the camera out of focus. These are examples of those oily residue
I did try several different MF (wet and dry), and different techniques to remove the oily residue, before settling on the easiest (for me, in FULL sun). I found that using a moderatly damp high quality waffle weave using a slow light touch would remove the residue and followed with the Summit 800 to buff. Did it work?
So what kind of "glamor shots" can I share to convince you to use the product??
I know some of you questioned me using it on my matte black vinyl but....
Need more convincing?? How about some bead shots??
Now that is one happy truck!!
Thanks for reading. As usual, I welcome comment, questions and suggestions!
