Mistakes with CQuartz?

S

Smitty

New member
What are the common mistakes that people make while applying CQuartz? I am leary about using a coating. I watched Corey's video and it doesn't seem that bad but I have seen many posts about poor looks or poor performance and durability that all seem to point back to the application.
Also, is it a waste to apply CQuartz to a vehicle that sees very harsh conditions and is washed two to three times per week? I am very happy with my current sealant but it looks like expectancy may only be in the six to nine month range. After about 12 washes, I am starting to see a few very faint marks on the surface in direct sunlight. I am concerned that while the coating may still be performing, the constant washing and other environmental issues may leave marks and make me want to recoat yearly.
The coatings seem expensive but I'm trying to determine if the life of the coating actually makes it cost effective in the long run which will be easier to achieve if I can apply it myself instead of paying a pro.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
 
Smitty said:
What are the common mistakes that people make while applying CQuartz? I am leary about using a coating. I watched Corey's video and it doesn't seem that bad but I have seen many posts about poor looks or poor performance and durability that all seem to point back to the application.
Also, is it a waste to apply CQuartz to a vehicle that sees very harsh conditions and is washed two to three times per week? I am very happy with my current sealant but it looks like expectancy may only be in the six to nine month range. After about 12 washes, I am starting to see a few very faint marks on the surface in direct sunlight. I am concerned that while the coating may still be performing, the constant washing and other environmental issues may leave marks and make me want to recoat yearly.
The coatings seem expensive but I'm trying to determine if the life of the coating actually makes it cost effective in the long run which will be easier to achieve if I can apply it myself instead of paying a pro.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
Click to expand...


I'll get the party started by saying...

Not using a polish without durable fillers

Not removing all polishing oils

Not using good ambient lighting do you make sure you wipe off all excess and avoid high spots! <----- winner!

I'll add some more info but look forward to seeing others first until I have a chance to get back and add some more

Best thing you can do if you are nervous and first timer is do only ONE panel from polish to prep to coat and then stop, think, look, look again the next day, think some more, ask any questions, and then proceed.
 
The biggest mistake that I made with my first coating job was not taking the ambient conditions into account. Humidity and temperature GREATLY affect the products behavior during application. I highly recommend doing a small "test spot" at the beginning of any coating job - this gives you the opportunity to see how quickly the product is "flashing" on the paint, and lets you know when you need to wipe it off.

**The current versions of CQ and CQUK are now technically "wipe on - wipe off" products....but I would still take the environmental conditions into account.

I would also not recommend applying any of the CQ coatings when the relative humidity is above 75%
 
Will CQ begin to show fine scratches/swirls etc.. on a vehicle that is washed multiple times per week? Keep mind this is a mostly black vehicle and is used much harder than the DD that commutes to work and back.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
 
CQ coatings will provide some additional scratch resistance - but they are by no means "scratch proof". Coatings need to be properly cared for, just like a clear coat.

If you are putting scratches in your paint from washing, you are doing something wrong. You can also scratch your paint from improper drying techniques.
 
I do my best not to scratch when washing and haven't been noticing any. I just was not sure if is possible to wash a car so often and not have something happen. It was already very rough when it was issued to me. So far the correction that was done is only around 80%. There are a few scratches and some rock chips that go to the primer. After the correction I did, you have to be within a foot or two from it in direct light to see most of the flaws. From 10 feet away, it looks great. I just want to make sure that it doesn't slowly go back to a swirl queen.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
 
Hi Smitty, with patience and the right products you can certainly keep it nearly swirl free.
 
Corey said:
Hi Smitty, with patience and the right products you can certainly keep it nearly swirl free.
Click to expand...

"NEARLY" being the operative word! Any time you touch the vehicle (or someone else does) you run a real chance to inducing marring or scratches. Being very OCD about stuff like that I had to make my peace with the fact that my vehicles will have scratches HOWEVER I can rest assured that she (my daily driver) will still outclass every vehicle around, including many, many show car :)
 
Inevitably, over time, you are going to get some "love marks" in your paint....even no matter how careful you are. The idea is to keep the scratches as light as possible, that way you can easily get them out with a light polish every few years.
 
That is exactly where I am now. I do my best but I understand it can not be a show vehicle. As it stands now, my vehicle stands out at work. I get tons of compliments and constantly have coworkers asking me what I use. Currently, when the finish is not where I want it, I polish it and reseal. If I do this every 6-9 months, I don't have to break out the compound. My question about CQ is more about extending this interval and keeping the wow effect I usually get. I am also hoping the self cleaning/rinsing is as good or better than the Sonax PNS that I'm currently using.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
 
Here is one thing to consider. If you have ligth "love mark" on your sealed vehicle, they are in the clear coat. If you have light "love mark" on a coated vehicle they are (in most part) in the coating, so a repolish on a coated vehicle tends to remove less (if any clear), whereas a polish on a sealed vehicle removes clear, EVERY TIME!
 
Hmm, that is good to know and is a more compelling argument for coatings. Has anyone had great success with a touchless car wash at home? Blowing sand, pollen and dust are my biggest problems. I have noticed that with the PNS, 90-95% of the dirt just rinses off when it is fresh. I have considered a pressure washer, foam and deionized water setup that would allow frequent washes and decrease the amount times I have to touch the paint. Do these work or a is it a waste?

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.
 
I'll have to agree with Greg. Temperature plays a huge roll in CQUK flashing. My first application was done at 55 degree weather, flashing took a lot longer and it was hard to wipe it off. I've found out that using compressed air speeds up flashing at colder Temps.
 
One thing to remember with UK you don't have to let it flash away completely. It can be wiped off within 5 minutes even in 45F. In warmer temps you would wipe off sooner
 
I see that CarPro has samples of CQuartz. Between CQUARTZ 10ML V.2014 and CQUARTZ UK 10ML, which should I try? I know that it won't coat an entire Tahoe but this seems like a good way to determine if this would work on this kind of vehicle. Will it at least do two coats on the hood and back door (my problem areas)?

I have the following products on hand:
3M: Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound 05973, Finesse-It II Finishing Material 05928, Perfect-It Ultrafine Machine Polish 39062.
Meguiar's: Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, #7 Show Car Glaze.
IPA dilutions of 10% and 20% and miscellaneous other OTC cleaning products.

Which polishes should I use prior to CQuartz? What else is a MUST to ensure this test is not a bust?

I apologize for so many questions but I have a couple of supervisors and other coworkers following this test and really want to make sure that I don't screw it up. Some of the guys in my area already follow with other products I have tried after seeing the results on my vehicle.

On a side note. It is funny to go places and everyone waits for me to park fist so they can park somewhere else to keep people from noticing how bad their car looks. Only detailers would understand this.:cool:
 
Smitty,

As far as washing, this is only my opinion, invest in a pressure washer. Most times I can foam cannon with RESET or Iron Soap, dwell, rinse with pressure washer, and blow dry. "Most times" I don't need to touch have the car. I just purchased a new electric washer as a matter of fact. I also have a whole house softer for my water.
I would also suggest getting a pack of 16 x 16 suede microfiber clothes, at least 10, for removal and a pack of the small suede cloths that wrap around the applicator.
The days I have applied coatings, it has been in the 60's and humidity levels in the 33-37% range. CQUK was buffed after a minute of application.
Another big help was a friend helped me. I did the application and he did the removal while using good lighting...one panel section at a time.
As far as to the polishes you have, I'll let someone else comment. If you have one that does not have any oils or anything it leaves behind then great. With that being said, carefully using ERASER or an IPA should remove any residue left behind.
Soaps...
http://www.carpro-us.com/iron-x-snow-soap-1-liter/
http://www.carpro-us.com/auto-wash/reset-intensive-car-shampoo-500ml/

Another good thing to have on hand...
http://www.carpro-us.com/decontaminate/trix-tar-iron-remover-1-liter/

Suede clothes...
http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-towels/suede-microfiber-applicator-4x4-10-pack/
http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-towels/carpro-suede-microfiber-16x16-10-pack/
ERASER...
http://www.carpro-us.com/paint-polish-cleaners/eraser-1-liter/
Foam Cannon...
http://www.carpro-us.com/snow-foam-cannon/
 
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Smitty said:
I see that CarPro has samples of CQuartz. Between CQUARTZ 10ML V.2014 and CQUARTZ UK 10ML, which should I try?

On a side note. It is funny to go places and everyone waits for me to park fist so they can park somewhere else to keep people from noticing how bad their car looks. Only detailers would understand this.:cool:
Click to expand...

From my experience, if you are in hotter weather like CA, go with CQ Classic. If you are in colder weather, go with UK. Also, UK has a darkening effect. My car in white color, after putting 2 coats of UK on, is now less white haha. Well, I still like the "hard mirror" look and the reflection is just magnificent. Ah, beading and sheeting is just ridiculous. After sheeting the water, my car is 90% dry.

Somehow I have the opposite experience in the parking lot. Whenever I park, I often see other shinny dark color luxury cars sandwiching my white Lexus IS. These car owners like parking next to me all the times and we often have some kind of show car competition or something. Everyday, all of these cars are clean and shinny. None of them looks dirty. It makes me having to keep my car as shinny and as clean as possible before going to work! :D

Jaguar - Audi - My Lexus IS (white color standing out for the win :D) - BMW - Porsche - Porsche
IMG_2825 by FSportIS, on Flickr

Sandwiched by two brand new Porsche lol
IMG_2728 by FSportIS, on Flickr

IMG_2730 by FSportIS, on Flickr
 
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