New to detailing - Need help on using the right set of products

[kliptan]

I have a new-ish car that I had professionally detailed (usual wash, clay, glaze, seal, and wax) about a month ago. Since then, I regularly wash it at my local coin-op self service car wash using the 2 bucket hand wash method. I use the coin-op place for the high pressure hose since I do not have access to one where I park.

My current products are just a basic mix of the usual recommendations - Optimum for car soap, Sonax for wheels, some APC for tires, collinite for wax. I have been reading up on Carpro products and their benefits and thinking of switching to them. However, I am confused on what combination to use.

It seems like most common recommendation is Reset+Reload. Can I just switch to this and use it in conjunction with my wax? So, it'd be Wash with Reset > Clay > Rinse > Apply Reload > Wax with Collinite.

However, how is Hydrofoam different from Reset and Hydro2 from Reload? Is Hydrofoam+Hydro2 effectively an alternative for Reset+Reload?

Separately, I am also considering CQuartz UK. Will I be OK washing the car at the coin-op, drying it, then driving back home, claying with Nanoskin, wipe clean with ONR and then applying CQuartz? I don't have access to polish or polishing tools but the paint on my car is clean. All threads I read on CQuartz advise that I clean with Iron X and Tar X, clay, and polish by using Reflect and Eraser, so I am trying to find the most effective way of doing this myself by making the best of what I have access to.

Any advise will be helpful!

 

[fdresq4]

I have a new-ish car that I had professionally detailed (usual wash, clay, glaze, seal, and wax) about a month ago. Since then, I regularly wash it at my local coin-op self service car wash using the 2 bucket hand wash method. I use the coin-op place for the high pressure hose since I do not have access to one where I park.

My current products are just a basic mix of the usual recommendations - Optimum for car soap, Sonax for wheels, some APC for tires, collinite for wax. I have been reading up on Carpro products and their benefits and thinking of switching to them. However, I am confused on what combination to use.

It seems like most common recommendation is Reset+Reload. Can I just switch to this and use it in conjunction with my wax? So, it'd be Wash with Reset > Clay > Rinse > Apply Reload > Wax with Collinite.

However, how is Hydrofoam different from Reset and Hydro2 from Reload? Is Hydrofoam+Hydro2 effectively an alternative for Reset+Reload?

Separately, I am also considering CQuartz UK. Will I be OK washing the car at the coin-op, drying it, then driving back home, claying with Nanoskin, wipe clean with ONR and then applying CQuartz? I don't have access to polish or polishing tools but the paint on my car is clean. All threads I read on CQuartz advise that I clean with Iron X and Tar X, clay, and polish by using Reflect and Eraser, so I am trying to find the most effective way of doing this myself by making the best of what I have access to.

Any advise will be helpful!

Welcome to the forum. If you are going to use RELOAD, you should have a clean deconned surface, i.e. Removal of any old LSP. You can use Reload first then the wax.

Hydrofoam has sealant in in where as Reset is just a pure soap. Hydrofoam is a good booster for ReLoad or even HYDRO2. Hydro 2 is a sealant that is very convenient to use and has less longevity than Reload. If you have Reload down as your LSP then Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 could be used as a " booster." I use Hydro 2 every so often on my wheels to help protect them.
If it were me, I wouldn't use a wax on top of Reload if you are going to introduce Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 as part of your routine.

As far as CQUK, you need to properly prep the surface, Deconning and Correcting. A clean surface is just one part of the process. Once CQUK is applied, any surface defects are now coated in and may be noticible.
Not to scare you off but watch videos and learn about applying CQUK and coatings. Good lighting is also needed for the success of application. Lighting will help identify any defects in the paint and will aid in applying the coating to address high spots.
Too many times I have read about folks failing to follow the process and then blame the coating.

 

[DARK HORSE]

Welcome to the forum. If you are going to use RELOAD, you should have a clean deconned surface, i.e. Removal of any old LSP. You can use Reload first then the wax.

Hydrofoam has sealant in in where as Reset is just a pure soap. Hydrofoam is a good booster for ReLoad or even HYDRO2. Hydro 2 is a sealant that is very convenient to use and has less longevity than Reload. If you have Reload down as your LSP then Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 could be used as a " booster." I use Hydro 2 every so often on my wheels to help protect them.
If it were me, I wouldn't use a wax on top of Reload if you are going to introduce Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 as part of your routine.

As far as CQUK, you need to properly prep the surface, Deconning and Correcting. A clean surface is just one part of the process. Once CQUK is applied, any surface defects are now coated in and may be noticible.
Not to scare you off but watch videos and learn about applying CQUK and coatings. Good lighting is also needed for the success of application. Lighting will help identify any defects in the paint and will aid in applying the coating to address high spots.
Too many times I have read about folks failing to follow the process and then blame the coating.

^^ This is spot on! Great post!

 

[kliptan]

Welcome to the forum. If you are going to use RELOAD, you should have a clean deconned surface, i.e. Removal of any old LSP. You can use Reload first then the wax.

Hydrofoam has sealant in in where as Reset is just a pure soap. Hydrofoam is a good booster for ReLoad or even HYDRO2. Hydro 2 is a sealant that is very convenient to use and has less longevity than Reload. If you have Reload down as your LSP then Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 could be used as a " booster." I use Hydro 2 every so often on my wheels to help protect them.
If it were me, I wouldn't use a wax on top of Reload if you are going to introduce Hydrofoam or Hydro 2 as part of your routine.

As far as CQUK, you need to properly prep the surface, Deconning and Correcting. A clean surface is just one part of the process. Once CQUK is applied, any surface defects are now coated in and may be noticible.
Not to scare you off but watch videos and learn about applying CQUK and coatings. Good lighting is also needed for the success of application. Lighting will help identify any defects in the paint and will aid in applying the coating to address high spots.
Too many times I have read about folks failing to follow the process and then blame the coating.

Thank you for the detailed explanation! Very helpful!

So, here's what I am going to do. I am putting off application of CQuartz until I am more comfortable with general detailing and polishing procedures (perhaps mid- to late- spring season). For now, I am going to use a wax stripping car wash (like CG Citrus), clay bar the car, and then apply Reload. After that, I will switch to using Reset for my weekly/bi-weekly maintenance washes and Hydrofoam for once a month, or when it seems like the car needs it. I'm going to skip the waxing completely and only use Reload as my LSP, reapplying it once a quarter or so.

Does this sound like a good path to go down on?

 

[fdresq4]

Sounds like a great plan! Don't forget to post pics when you can please. Nothing better than a clean,shiny, and protected ride.

As far as CQUK...read as much as you can and watch plenty of videos. It's "easy" once you get it down.

Steve

 

[cduytran]

Thank you for the detailed explanation! Very helpful!

So, here's what I am going to do. I am putting off application of CQuartz until I am more comfortable with general detailing and polishing procedures (perhaps mid- to late- spring season). For now, I am going to use a wax stripping car wash (like CG Citrus), clay bar the car, and then apply Reload. After that, I will switch to using Reset for my weekly/bi-weekly maintenance washes and Hydrofoam for once a month, or when it seems like the car needs it. I'm going to skip the waxing completely and only use Reload as my LSP, reapplying it once a quarter or so.

Does this sound like a good path to go down on?

Hi bud,

I wouldn't clay the car unless it's truly needed. Examine the paint first; wash the car and use the baggy test. Then decide if you have to clay or not. More often than not, you don't need it because it's a fairly new car. Claying could potentially mar the paint. Please be VERY cautious.

As far as taking off the old wax, try to use Meg car wash plus. It's cheap and highly effective for taking off whatever is on the paint. After you dry the car, use diluted IPA to wipe down the car. And yeah, after the IPA wipe down, give it a good 2-3 minutes for it to fully evaporate.

I haven't use Reset yet so I can't comment on its effectiveness. I've been using Meg Crystal Car Wash for years and years. It's so cheap and doesn't contain any other BS chemical like wax. Just a straight up good car soap. I also use it for wheels. Nothing beats a a light scrub to take off brake dust. Save some money on wheels/brake-dust cleaner.

Check out the water behavior of my car ( 4 months old Reload).

Cheers and have fun.

 

[fdresq4]

Reset does not contain any additives and is a great maintenance soap.

As far as claying , yes there is chance to induce some marring but a chemical decon, like IRONX, "could" help in minimizing that. Also, especially when applying a coating, it is imperative to have a clean deconned, corrected, and prepped surface to achieve success. I would also take that same train of thought when applying a sealant or even wax to achieve success.
As far as a new car not needing claying, more times than not, I haven't seen that in my part of the country or in the Southeast/Gulf coast. The baggy test is a good start but I have yet to see that with my personal vehicles or that of cars I have worked on. Again, maybe it's because I live in the Northeast.
Prior to the baggy test, I use to think the same thing about deconning. Then, once I learned more, I found that claying/deconning was indeed in order.
In the end, if folks are happy with just washing and waxing that's fine too. Whatever makes you happy or floats your boat.

 

[Cooter]

Try the bag test first. New cars can get rail dust due to being transported across the country via train. If you plan on applying a coating, a decon of your paint is important as is polishing.