So what is my first step ?

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krazygraphics

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Sorry for such a dumb question but I've talked to a few people about this product and I've gotten a few different answers , So I'm here to ask the pro;s finally ! :cool:

#1 Obviously wash the car
#2 clay bar
#3 wash the car again ( is it needed ? )
#4 High speed compound / polish
#5 Eraser
#6 CQUK

Do I have this correct ? If I am missing something that is it ?

I will be doing this tomorrow if all goes well.
 
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krazygraphics said:
Sorry for such a dumb question but I've talked to a few people about this product and I've gotten a few different answers , So I'm here to ask the pro;s finally ! :cool:

#1 Obviously wash the car
#2 clay bar
#3 wash the car again ( is it needed ? )
#4 High speed compound / polish
#5 Eraser
#6 CQUK

Do I have this correct ? If I am missing something that is it ?

I will be doing this tomorrow if all goes well.
Click to expand...

As others have suggested, I too would add IX to the process. Also no need to wash the car again after claying.

Wash the car
Iron X
Thorough Rinse
Clay bar (wipe off residue from lube, possibly with a second spritz of lube if needed as you go).
NO need to wash again
High speed compound / polish
Eraser
#6 CQUK
 
HERE’S A FEW QUICK TIPS FOR YOU…

1.-Shake the bottle well.
2.-Lightly cover the surface with Iron X using the supplied spray nozzle. (For best results apply to a mostly dry surface, a few drops of water is ok). I recommend that you spray as needed and spread it with a small sponge or applicator to cover the entire surface. Only cover the surfaces you wish to decontaminate. The product is strong so you don’t have to be wasteful. Just make sure it contacts the entire surface.
3.-Allow the product to dwell for 5 minutes in the shade. DO NOT allow it to dry in the sun. On light colored paints you will see the product dissolving ferrous particles as it turns color. On darker colored paints everything is happening in exactly the same way. It’s simply more difficult for you to view the color changing effect on darker colors.
4.-After allowing to dwell take a damp (not soaked) grout or other paint safe sponge (or other media if you prefer) and agitate the surface.
5.-Thoroughly rinse the surface.
Don’t forget to rinse your media out also. I like to have a dedicated Iron X sponge but that isn’t necessary.

PRECAUTIONS:
A.-Use outside or with sufficient ventilation.
B.-Use latex or Nitrile gloves, and eye protection.
C.-If there is an inordinate amount of tree sap, tar, other organic material, wax, or sealants on the vehicle I recommend you strip them first with TarX so Iron X can attack the ferrous particles without any interference. This is not required but is how I like to do it for best results.
 
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I have a question , Since the Jeep is brand new , should I use the high speed polisher and compound ? Or should I be good with a good wash and clay bar ?
 
krazygraphics said:
I have a question , Since the Jeep is brand new , should I use the high speed polisher and compound ? Or should I be good with a good wash and clay bar ?
Click to expand...
Most new vehicles will have some degree of defects. Most likely at a minimum a finishing polish on a finishing pad would be required. What polisher do you have?
 
If you are going to hire a detailer to do it for you; I would strongly suggest you seek out one of CarPro’s highly qualified, “certified” detailers. They are the most familiar with CarPro products, and the best methods to ensure the best results. They can evaluate your paint and determine the best course of action needed (e.g. what level of correction and prep work would be required). There are several in Florida, and can be located from the link below. As I stated above, even brand new vehicles have some level of defects that need to be corrected before coating. Without seeing the paint first hand it is impossible to tell you what degree of correction is needed. “Many” times a new vehicle will require only a light polishing with a finishing pad and finishing polish (no compounding) necessary, but this is not always the case.

http://www.cqfinest.com/where-to-buy.html

In summary; a compound "may" not be needed, but at a minimum a polish "most" likely will be.
 
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Thanks for the info , Closest certified detailer is 2 hours from me sadly. I was just outside and I noticed I got bombed by my sprinklers last night, I have water spots on chrome trim parts now, curious if the Ironx will take care of that issue ?
 
I would recommend to stay away from the 3M system which is actually designed for rotary rather than DA. IronX will not take care of the water spot issues but CarPro Spotless will definitely come to the rescue.

Although you mentioned that you are 2 hrs from the closest Certified CarPro Installer, I would still recommend at least a phone conversation with him to get you started in the right direction (from product purchase to protection, to prevention (and proper wash technique)

Link to CarPro Spotless

CarPro_Spotless_500ml__32148.1405465173.780.780.jpg
 
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