Soft CQUK

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slicksierra

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Alright guys I have a black 2000 GMC Sierra that I have coated twice with CQUK 2014. First time around I incorrectly used Reload and also applied the coating in low light conditions so I polished the whole truck with reflect and reapplied. Second time around I applied in better lighting, used Reload correctly but applied in temps just above freezing. Now my problem is that I am finding the harness of the coating to be well... not very hard. For example, while chasing lint from a bad towel I discovered that a dry microfiber on clean paint will leave hairline scratches in the coating. I thought the coating would be a little more resistant than this. Has it not fully cured yet? Last application was right after Thanksgiving. Now getting the scratches out is no issue I've done it before. But I'm hesitant to polish and add another coat this winter if its going to be relatively soft again and take a long time to cure. Also I would hardly call them scratches but more love marks that you can only see in direct lighting
 
If you indeed applied at freezing temps you may have a longer then usual curing time. That is one of the reason I always bake my coatings. I am not 100% on the exact process but if I extrapolate from my knowledge of chemistry, I believe that heat serves 2 purpose. The obvious one is that it helps in catalysing the reaction (in which suspension silica react with oxygen to make the SiO2 nano matrix. The second which is pure speculation, it helps evaporate the solvent/carriers from the matrix as it forms leaving behind a "purer" matrix. Having trapped carriers (in my opinion) is what makes the final coating "softer". If you are an enthusiast and don't want to spring for IR lamps, you can use a halogen lamp to heat up the panel to 75 degrees for application, then use a heat gun/hair dyer to heat up the panel to 170 degree. We normally cure the panel for 10 minutes which may not be feasible with this setup but you will end up with a better result than letting it cure at less then perfect ambient temp. Preferably, wait till it is warm enough that you can coat and let the sun bake it :)
 
Depending on towel quality and contaminants, scratching issues could arise with any coating or finish. What kind of towel was it? I have had experiences with MF towels inducing very fine scratches to freshly corrected and protected surfaces alike.
Just curious, when you removed the CQUK, what towels did you use? Any chance you could post pics?

Thanks,

Steve
 
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Dr Pain said it well, its very low temp, in such temps coating takes time to dry, try to bake it with IR lights if possible , did you wait some time to let it cure at this temp? it it was very cold you could wait 1~2 min to let it cure over the surface , before wiping.
 
As stated, temps were not ideal for application. This probably considerably slowed the initial curing process. Then to come behind with another product such as reload which is water based probably added another monkey wrench into the mix.

I know Corey-Carpro suggest Reload no sooner than an hour later after CQuartz application, but will assume this is the minimum allowed time under ideal conditions. Thus I would say under such extreme lower temps the longer one could've waited, perhaps 12 hours or more probably would've helped some with the hardening-curing of CQuartz.

Usually during such colder weather, there's little that I do, even waxing I refrain from. Only if I had access to something like a heated garage like I once had when I lived up north, would I undertake any major detailing.

About all I will do now, with temps only nearing highs of low-mid 40's during the day is maybe wash and use something like a spray detailer, or Duragloss Aquawax which I use like a detailer. That's it. Or only use Reload for now if you find it will work in your current weather conditions?

I would say definitely now wait, only do like what I mention I do above till warmer weather comes for now.

I've applied UK on my Tahoe some months back, but under temps that were mid-high 70's. Humidity was a bit high that cloudy day and was lucky there wasn't a rain out because I was under my carport, but I had no problems with either UK or Reload, and the finish that was left behind is quite far from being called in any way "soft". In fact after over 40 years of detailing, I would say it was the hardest, most mar resistant product I've ever applied to paint.

That was one of the main reasons I chose it (I'm sure you did too) and it has more than met my expectations.

I would not give up on the product, just try again at the right time, and I'm sure you'll get the proper end results like I did.
 
Sorry that I didn't further note-elaborate, When I referred that to just only washing, and using a detailer spray, or Aquawax, that is only on my daily driver Kia Spectra (which is not CQuartzed), not the Tahoe which is.

All I've used on the Tahoe since UK application has been CP Reload, nothing else.
 
Dr_Pain said:
If you indeed applied at freezing temps you may have a longer then usual curing time. That is one of the reason I always bake my coatings. I am not 100% on the exact process but if I extrapolate from my knowledge of chemistry, I believe that heat serves 2 purpose. The obvious one is that it helps in catalysing the reaction (in which suspension silica react with oxygen to make the SiO2 nano matrix. The second which is pure speculation, it helps evaporate the solvent/carriers from the matrix as it forms leaving behind a "purer" matrix. Having trapped carriers (in my opinion) is what makes the final coating "softer". If you are an enthusiast and don't want to spring for IR lamps, you can use a halogen lamp to heat up the panel to 75 degrees for application, then use a heat gun/hair dyer to heat up the panel to 170 degree. We normally cure the panel for 10 minutes which may not be feasible with this setup but you will end up with a better result than letting it cure at less then perfect ambient temp. Preferably, wait till it is warm enough that you can coat and let the sun bake it :)
Click to expand...
Yes I am a weekend warrior and IR lamps are out of the question!
 
fdresq4 said:
Depending on towel quality and contaminants, scratching issues could arise with any coating or finish. What kind of towel was it? I have had experiences with MF towels inducing very fine scratches to freshly corrected and protected surfaces alike.
Just curious, when you removed the CQUK, what towels did you use? Any chance you could post pics?

Thanks,

Steve
Click to expand...
I used an Adams towel I believe a single soft version. The first go around I found that the carpro Orange one had a tendency to smear the residue and high spots instead of wipe it away I could try to get some pics after the next wash
 
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Avi@CP said:
Dr Pain said it well, its very low temp, in such temps coating takes time to dry, try to bake it with IR lights if possible , did you wait some time to let it cure at this temp? it it was very cold you could wait 1~2 min to let it cure over the surface , before wiping.
Click to expand...
I did take the time to let it cure on the surface I would say I didn't wait any longer than a minute max
 
Mark said:
As stated, temps were not ideal for application. This probably considerably slowed the initial curing process. Then to come behind with another product such as reload which is water based probably added another monkey wrench into the mix.

I know Corey-Carpro suggest Reload no sooner than an hour later after CQuartz application, but will assume this is the minimum allowed time under ideal conditions. Thus I would say under such extreme lower temps the longer one could've waited, perhaps 12 hours or more probably would've helped some with the hardening-curing of CQuartz.

Usually during such colder weather, there's little that I do, even waxing I refrain from. Only if I had access to something like a heated garage like I once had when I lived up north, would I undertake any major detailing.

About all I will do now, with temps only nearing highs of low-mid 40's during the day is maybe wash and use something like a spray detailer, or Duragloss Aquawax which I use like a detailer. That's it. Or only use Reload for now if you find it will work in your current weather conditions?

I would say definitely now wait, only do like what I mention I do above till warmer weather comes for now.

I've applied UK on my Tahoe some months back, but under temps that were mid-high 70's. Humidity was a bit high that cloudy day and was lucky there wasn't a rain out because I was under my carport, but I had no problems with either UK or Reload, and the finish that was left behind is quite far from being called in any way "soft". In fact after over 40 years of detailing, I would say it was the hardest, most mar resistant product I've ever applied to paint.

That was one of the main reasons I chose it (I'm sure you did too) and it has more than met my expectations.

I would not give up on the product, just try again at the right time, and I'm sure you'll get the proper end results like I did.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the response, this second go around I followed directly after the CQUK with some sonax pns it was day time and the temps were in the 40s but I'm feeling my issue may be from temperature cure problems and possibly following up too early with the coating topper.
 
I appreciate all the replies. For now I guess the plan will be to wait until the temp rises into the 50's or 60's for a few days and then lightly prep the surface with some reflect and then try another top coat or two. Next time I think I will let the coating sit for a day or so before topping it right away with reload or another sealant
 

If you haven't watched the above video, I would suggest you do...great info!

slicksierra said:
I used an Adams towel I believe a single soft version. The first go around I found that the carpro Orange one had a tendency to smear the residue and high spots instead of wipe it away I could try to get some pics after the next wash
Click to expand...

Was it the Suede microfiber towels or the orange BOA's? The Suede MF's are the way to go when removing CQUK. Also you will need multiple towels when doing it. For a Nissan Pathfinder, we used 8 towels. http://www.carpro-us.com/microfiber-towels/carpro-suede-microfiber-16x16-10-pack/

You may get a panel or panel and a half, depending on size, before turning to a new side. Fold the towel into 4's and switch sides as soon as it starts to feel grabby or you see smearing.

Good Luck,

Steve
 
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Is their an exact shelf life to CQUK? I originally coated in November and would like to polish and add another top coat this month after winter leaves. Been almost 5 months since I first opened the bottle... Is this a problem? It was stored in my bedroom so temperature controlled


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
slicksierra said:
Is their an exact shelf life to CQUK? I originally coated in November and would like to polish and add another top coat this month after winter leaves. Been almost 5 months since I first opened the bottle... Is this a problem? It was stored in my bedroom so temperature controlled


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

6 months opened and 12 months unopened

The more air in the bottle, the shorter the life
 
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