Using IronX on bodywork.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Huck
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Huck

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Hi:
I have a white Honda Accord that seems to have aquired some rail dust along the way,so I want to use some IronX on the paintwork. How do I know when all the contaminants are gone.....do I keep spraying the product a second time until I see no purple streaks,or is one spray good enough,followed by some claying using a Nanoskin fine scrub sponge? Thanks,Huck
 
48 looks and no comments??! Is it safe to use a sponge after the first spray to work the IronX around before I rinse off? I don't want to make more scratches.Thanks,Huck
 
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I wouldn't touch the paint with ANYTHING until you have washed the car, then clay barred, then spray Iron X on it. You can do it as many times as you like until you see no more "bleeding" from the paintwork.
 
ChrisDA said:
I wouldn't touch the paint with ANYTHING until you have washed the car, then clay barred, then spray Iron X on it. You can do it as many times as you like until you see no more "bleeding" from the paintwork.
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Thanks....so the application of the IronX is the last step before polishing and sealing? (wash,clay,IronX,polish,seal)Thanks,Huck
 
ChrisDA said:
I wouldn't touch the paint with ANYTHING until you have washed the car, then clay barred, then spray Iron X on it. You can do it as many times as you like until you see no more "bleeding" from the paintwork.
Click to expand...

That's odd I've heard and done it the opposite way most of the time. Because the iron x will kill off a fair amount of contaminants, making the clay or clay alternative step easier. Obviously a good wash is always in order.
 
This is roughly my method

1) Pre rinse (to get all the loose dirt and debris off the paint)
2) IronX
3) Wash/Rinse
4) Repeat (if needed)
5) Clay
6) Wash/Rinse
7) Inspect (and repeated if needed)
8) Dry (blown and towel)
9) Inspect under light
10) Test spots
11) Compound/Polish
 
EVOlved said:
That's odd I've heard and done it the opposite way most of the time. Because the iron x will kill off a fair amount of contaminants, making the clay or clay alternative step easier. Obviously a good wash is always in order.
Click to expand...

^^ Agreed, this is correct. Using IX prior to claying will usually greatly reduce the amount of time needed to clay.
 
This is how I do it (there are many alternatives, but this is what works for me):


1. Pre-rinse/wash vehicle thoroughly.

2. Use either forced air or quality towel to remove most of the water from the surface (85%-90%) I believe this is a very important step. Leaving to much water on the surface dilutes the effectiveness of the IX.

3. Let dwell for 5-7 minutes in the shade, do not let it dry on the surface in the sun.

4. Use a damp grout sponge, other paint safe sponge, or a dedicated mitt and agitate the surface. (I use a dedicated sponge for this, and only this job)

5. Rinse thoroughly!

6. Clay

7. Compound/polish

* If you follow this method, there should be no need for a 2nd application.
 
I agree with IX b4 claying. Actually I prefer TrIX, removes tar and really makes claying a breeze
 
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The reason I clay before is that the clay will get off A LOT of crap, and IronX isn't cheap... so that way you won't need to keep going with the IronX because you would have gotten a lot of the contaminants off with the clay.
 
Kudos to Trix for sure Doc-A-Roo, I agree! I worked on a vehicle a couple of weeks ago so contaminated that I clayed using Trix as the lube during the wash and decon. It worked GREAT!
 
I just happened to spray a little Iron-X in my garage on my rear car door bottom and some dripped onto my concrete floor...I rinsed it good(floor) with water and hose,but it still stinks!!. I also got a little on my bare fingers,as I was trying to rinse out the spray nozzle with clear water and after repeated washings,my fingers still stunk,even after using Nok-Out,an indusrial stength odor eliminator. My driveway also stinks of it,as I had to re-rinse,as I had missed some IX the 1st time. What is good to remove the smell?!
Will this product ruin the paint if I leave it on or let it dry,or is it just harder to remove once dry?Thanks,Huck
 
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Time will pass, and the smell will leave. For me the first time, it was almost 2 weeks! LOL

Wanted to add, the first time I used Iron-X, I had to chuckle, as I read other's reports of the smell, and yep, I agreed, thought "man, this is some stanky stuff", but after I sprayed, spread with a dampened sponge, and watched what this product was doing on my Tahoe's White Paint, I was awe struck! It was truly an OMG moment!

As I let the product dwell, and kept in mind not to let it dry on the paint, I'm sure the whole neighborhood reeked, and probably the reason why the smell hung around a good while, is concrete is fairly porous.

As I rinsed, the concrete slab my truck sits on was purple.

I know the paint on my truck, like I know the Palm of my Hand. Close to 17 years of ownership, and the uncountable times I've washed, waxed, detailed, and as I was Claying as the next step, I did comment to myself, and muttered "dayum, my paint is sure looking White"! Probably the cleanest the paint had been in a good ten years.

My conclusions are, this is one product my arsenal will never be without, and also some sobering thoughts, thinking how I wished such a product was available 20-30 years ago.

Other thoughts are how so many aren't even aware of what actually resides on their paint, and that such products are available to rid such Iron Particle invasion.
Mark
 
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You learn to ignore it over time. The benefits of the product outweigh the inconvenience of the smell, trust me!!
 
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