I just did my 30' Sea Ray Sundancer with a GG6 and GG3. It was in the Marina yard last summer for repairs and since it was on blocks they let me come and do a full detail from top to bottom. It was a lot of work, but it was perfect for me to work out my technique and experiment with different pads and products. She was a brand new boat afterwards and the upkeep since then could not have been easier.
I've done my 50' boat for the last few years with CQUK with fantastic results. For correction, you're looking at a rotary machine with wool pads. Gelcoat is harder than car paint. One really good compound is 3M's Imperial Compound. It's a diminishing grit product that takes you from bad to great in one step. Follow the directions and be careful not to burn the gelcoat. If it's not in bad shape, don't use Imperial, it's a bit over agressive if you don't need it.
I use Sea-Shield compounds (#1 Heavy Cut if it's bad, #2 cut and polish if it's ok.) As a yearly mainenance I haven't had to use either in a couple years. Last year I used Essence with a Mequiars MF cutting bad and Rupes 21 with absolutely miraculous results - we had to stop and stare repeatedly. If Essence didn't get it perfect, then I went to Sea-Shield #2/rotary/wool, then back to Essence. After Essence I coat with CQUK and reload. I also CQUK and reload all the stainless - this really cuts down on the black streaks.
In the summer, I wash with a foam cannon, rinse and dry. Every few weeks I use Reset to wash, it helps. Every 4-6 weeks, I use Hydro2 (or Hydofoam, but I have Hydro2 left, so I'm still using it). I do find that Hydro2 works well on the gelocoat, but Reload works much better on my vinyl windows - it works better than ANY product I've seen (and I think I've tried them all). One other thing that I started doing, which I believe makes a difference is to wash/Hydro2 every nook and cranny, especially around stainless fittings, rub rails, etc. I find the Hydro 2 and a pressure washer can force a coating into areas you simply cannot reach - but dirt does!
I dry the boat after washing, or I get spots. I use MF Madness Dry Me Crazy for the gelcoat and waffle weave to dry the windows.
I bought a new boat this year. It's a bit older than my last and it has some thin spots in the gelcoat. I've known the boat and previous owner for 10 years. Last year I suggested trying CQUK instead of a repaint that we was considering (since I bought the boat, maybe I should have pushed for the repaint, but it was $50,000) He got the boat looking good and them put 700ml of CQUK on it (17x50ml bottles), and he did a really good job. The boat has never looked better since I've known it. I believe the coating is still there, so I'll simply maintain it yearly and stave off the repaint for years.
One thing about this boat is that the bridge side windows do not open and cannot easily be removed, nor can the be reached from the side of the boat by hand. this is going to make drying them a serious issue. My plan is to get one of these deionizer rinses (CR Spotless or such). Not sure if it will work - but am hoping. I'll use a small pressure washer and foam cannon to wash (I have been using an AR BLue 118 because it's tiny and has plenty of power to clean a boat that's really clean to start, but I may change next year. Looking for something small but with quick connects and an available 50-75' hose in 1 section).
I should also mention - I do antifoul paint my boat, so I'm not using it below the waterline. I use straight Essence on the cockpit and bridge gelcoat.
My experience with the products has been fantastic. There's only one non-carpro product that I use as a coating/protectant. Qtecniq Smart Fabric on my convertible fabric top for my car. If I had a canvas enclosure on my boat, I would likely use that too. It has worked very well for me this year.