What to do and how to do it.

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Clarkgriswald

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Hi! It's been probably 2 or 3 months since I've washed my truck (2013 black ram 1500). Just been taking it through touchless car washes. Next weekend I'm washing it finally and I just got a Sun Joe pressure washer that I used today on our house and loved it.

My plan is to power wash my truck first then two bucket wash with reset then rinse. I always feel in panic mode when I wash the truck all at one time because I don't want the soap to dry. What's the best way to wash my truck? Can I rinse with the power washer or should I just use a hose?

I also just got a master blaster revolution to dry. I want to put reload on when everything is all said and done. Truck might have some finest on it from 3 years ago.

Thanks for the help.
 
Clarkgriswald said:
Hi! It's been probably 2 or 3 months since I've washed my truck (2013 black ram 1500). Just been taking it through touchless car washes. Next weekend I'm washing it finally and I just got a Sun Joe pressure washer that I used today on our house and loved it.

My plan is to power wash my truck first then two bucket wash with reset then rinse. I always feel in panic mode when I wash the truck all at one time because I don't want the soap to dry. What's the best way to wash my truck? Can I rinse with the power washer or should I just use a hose?

I also just got a master blaster revolution to dry. I want to put reload on when everything is all said and done. Truck might have some finest on it from 3 years ago.

Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

Some of what you are asking depends on the quality of the water and your environment during the washing process.
Use the hose. I'm not a big fan of power washing. I feel a water pressure can "push" dirt across the paint and scratch it.

I like to gently rinse flood a section then use a snow foam pre-soak via foam cannon to "lift" the dirt before a Two Bucket Wash.
In the case of a truck, I may start with a pH7 orange/citrus spray cleaner on the bottom half of the paint to loosen/remove dirt and road grime.

For the wheels, I might suggest making a bottle of a mixture of wheel cleaner, vinegar, Dawn soap and water and spray before using the Pressure washer.
I have found this combination to be effective in cleaning off road grime, brake dust etc. Spray bottle let sit, pressure washer remove, wipe/dry...all clean.

As far as the wash soap drying...you may need to do the truck in sections. I always try to rotate counterclockwise around a vehicle when I'm working on it.
I start with the roof, then the hood, then the drivers side, then the trunk/bed/tailgate, then come forward on the passenger side starting from the rear to the front.

In the shade...Rinse, PW/foam cannon pre-wash soap, Merino wash mitt, rinse again, dry. Your water, sun, environment etc. determines how many sections you can do at a time.
Follow the foam pre-wash with a Two Bucket Wash Method. Using the Master Blaster and 2) Microfiber Madness Dry Me Crazy (25" x 17") drying towels and you should be fne.

Short Version:
If you are doing the engine bay do it first before you wash your truck. (a different post)
Do the wheels first, the roof, hood, then side panels going counterclockwise around the truck.
Rinse with the hose. Follow with the Two Bucket Wash Method then dry (in all crevices).

P.S. Grit Guards (you need at least two) are your friends with a black truck!
 
What you can try to do is divide the truck into smaller sections. First starting with the front half and then the second half.

Or if you can find a shady spot to do the entire truck as you don't want reset to dry on the paint. But your plan sounds good.

I like to sheet rinse with a hose before using a blower to remove as much water as possible and then try anything that still remains.
 
Thanks Merlin! I have well water. What's a good soap for the foam cannon and do you think it would be a good idea to foam and just rinse and then two bucket wash?

I do have grit guards. Can't go without them.

Is that merino wash mitt better than the incredisponge? For the wheels I was planning on just using iron-x and then pressure wash.
 
Clarkgriswald said:
Thanks Merlin!
I have well water.
What's a good soap for the foam cannon?
Do you think it would be a good idea to foam and just rinse and then two bucket wash?
Is that merino wash mitt better than the incredisponge?
For the wheels I was planning on just using iron-x and then pressure wash.
Click to expand...

You may wish to look into a water filter for the hose connection.
It depends...for a good decon wash I like using IronX Snow soap.
I like to foam, agitate dirt with the mitt, rinse then follow with 2MB.
I prefer the Merino mitt on Black paint.
For the wheels (like the paint) Does it need decontamination? If so...
I use IronX on the wheels (and paint with a Yellow Foam Applicator).
 
Merlin said:
You may wish to look into a water filter for the hose connection.
It depends...for a good decon wash I like using IronX Snow soap.
I like to foam, agitate dirt with the mitt, rinse then follow with 2MB.
I prefer the Merino mitt on Black paint.
For the wheels (like the paint) Does it need decontamination? If so...
I use IronX on the wheels (and paint with a Yellow Foam Applicator).
Click to expand...

What kind of water filter would you recommend and how does that attach?

I ordered some Ironx Snow soap to use.

I definaltly want to Ironx my wheels. There pretty dirty.

After I get the snow soap off I'm going to wash it again with reset. Is that a good idea or a waste of time?

Thanks!
 
Clarkgriswald said:
What kind of water filter would you recommend and how does that attach?

I ordered some Ironx Snow soap to use.

I definaltly want to Ironx my wheels. There pretty dirty.

After I get the snow soap off I'm going to wash it again with reset.
Is that a good idea or a waste of time?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There are hundreds (if not thousands) of different water filters.
Your two main issues are minerals/sediment and hard water.
Many filter models attach to the hose bib on your house.
Do you have any type of water filter for your well water?

IronX on your wheels is fine (depending on the type). Don't let the Ironx Spray dry.

I like to use the IronX snow soap on the paint, wheels etc. with a PW/foam cannon.
Then I follow up (after the cannon/wash/rinse) using Reset & the Two Bucket Method.
 
Merlin said:
There are hundreds (if not thousands) of different water filters.
Your two main issues are minerals/sediment and hard water.
Many filter models attach to the hose bib on your house.
Do you have any type of water filter for your well water?

IronX on your wheels is fine (depending on the type). Don't let the Ironx Spray dry.

I like to use the IronX snow soap on the paint, wheels etc. with a PW/foam cannon.
Then I follow up (after the cannon/wash/rinse) using Reset & the Two Bucket Method.
Click to expand...

No we don't have any filter on it now. We have city water but I don't have a way to hook up to it. We only use well water for outside stuff. This winter I want to have city water in my garage so then I can at least use better water.

I have clear coated factory rims that came with my truck. I've used Ironx on them before but I never had the option of pressure washing them until now.

Should I rinse my truck first before I use the Ironx soap or would that dilute it too much?

What would be the best way for me to correctly apply reload without screwing it up. I have a nice light setup but what if the next day I see a spot where I put on to much/to little reload?

Thanks Merlin!
 
There are many RV style outside hose bib type water filters.

Minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium, are what constitute “hard water”. Hard water is responsible for water spots, poor-lathering shampoo, and that green ring around your bathtub. The calcium and magnesium actually harden inside pipes (called “scale”) and on other surfaces, including your vehicle. When you rinse with hard water, you could be dousing your vehicle with hard mineral deposits. The only way to prevent hard water deposits is with a water softener.

Sediment is rust or sand that is inside water pipes. A broken water main miles and miles away can allow sand to enter your water supply. Likewise, a little rust anywhere along the water line can flake off into the water. This is why your household faucets have filters. Needless to say, sand and rust hitting your paint finish should be avoided. A filter will remove fine sediment and protect your vehicle as you wash it.

A one-step, in-line filter will remove one of these problems, but what if your water has both sediment and hard water? Well water almost certainly contains sediment and minerals because it is not filtered through a water treatment plant. But even city water can contain both sediment and hard water. That’s because many water treatment plants add lime to the water to raise the pH in order to spur the chemical process that removes debris from the water. Lime adds to hard water.

Most of us need a two-part filtration system that both removes sediment and softens the water to ensure that the water coming out of the hose is truly clean. This helps ensure you’re washing your vehicle in clean, soft water.
______________

If your wheels are CC and you have not had problems in the past you should be fine. Do not let IronX dry on the wheels.
______________

Rinsing first will help remove any loose dirt or debris. It should not effect using the IronX or IronX snow soap.
______________

I've had very little streaking issues with the latest Reload formula. Use it in the shade and you should be fine.
 
Merlin said:
There are many RV style outside hose bib type water filters.

Minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium, are what constitute “hard water”. Hard water is responsible for water spots, poor-lathering shampoo, and that green ring around your bathtub. The calcium and magnesium actually harden inside pipes (called “scale”) and on other surfaces, including your vehicle. When you rinse with hard water, you could be dousing your vehicle with hard mineral deposits. The only way to prevent hard water deposits is with a water softener.

Sediment is rust or sand that is inside water pipes. A broken water main miles and miles away can allow sand to enter your water supply. Likewise, a little rust anywhere along the water line can flake off into the water. This is why your household faucets have filters. Needless to say, sand and rust hitting your paint finish should be avoided. A filter will remove fine sediment and protect your vehicle as you wash it.

A one-step, in-line filter will remove one of these problems, but what if your water has both sediment and hard water? Well water almost certainly contains sediment and minerals because it is not filtered through a water treatment plant. But even city water can contain both sediment and hard water. That’s because many water treatment plants add lime to the water to raise the pH in order to spur the chemical process that removes debris from the water. Lime adds to hard water.

Most of us need a two-part filtration system that both removes sediment and softens the water to ensure that the water coming out of the hose is truly clean. This helps ensure you’re washing your vehicle in clean, soft water.
______________

If your wheels are CC and you have not had problems in the past you should be fine. Do not let IronX dry on the wheels.
______________

Rinsing first will help remove any loose dirt or debris. It should not effect using the IronX or IronX snow soap.
______________

I've had very little streaking issues with the latest Reload formula. Use it in the shade and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks Merlin for all the help. I will try to post before and after pictures.
 
Merlin said:
There are many RV style outside hose bib type water filters.

Minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium, are what constitute “hard water”. Hard water is responsible for water spots, poor-lathering shampoo, and that green ring around your bathtub. The calcium and magnesium actually harden inside pipes (called “scale”) and on other surfaces, including your vehicle. When you rinse with hard water, you could be dousing your vehicle with hard mineral deposits. The only way to prevent hard water deposits is with a water softener.

Sediment is rust or sand that is inside water pipes. A broken water main miles and miles away can allow sand to enter your water supply. Likewise, a little rust anywhere along the water line can flake off into the water. This is why your household faucets have filters. Needless to say, sand and rust hitting your paint finish should be avoided. A filter will remove fine sediment and protect your vehicle as you wash it.

A one-step, in-line filter will remove one of these problems, but what if your water has both sediment and hard water? Well water almost certainly contains sediment and minerals because it is not filtered through a water treatment plant. But even city water can contain both sediment and hard water. That’s because many water treatment plants add lime to the water to raise the pH in order to spur the chemical process that removes debris from the water. Lime adds to hard water.

Most of us need a two-part filtration system that both removes sediment and softens the water to ensure that the water coming out of the hose is truly clean. This helps ensure you’re washing your vehicle in clean, soft water.
______________

If your wheels are CC and you have not had problems in the past you should be fine. Do not let IronX dry on the wheels.
______________

Rinsing first will help remove any loose dirt or debris. It should not effect using the IronX or IronX snow soap.
______________

I've had very little streaking issues with the latest Reload formula. Use it in the shade and you should be fine.
Click to expand...

One last question. For the Ironx snow soap do I just use that straight up or should I dilute?
 
Clarkgriswald said:
One last question. For the Ironx snow soap do I just use that straight up or should I dilute?
Click to expand...

See Info...CarPro Iron X Snow Soap

Dilutions:

  • 1-3 ounces in your foam cannon for simple snow foaming
  • Up to 1:8 - Light iron remover
  • Do not dilute if you desire a top strength prep solution

I use it in my PW/Foam Cannon 4:1/5:1 Your results may vary.
I do the IronX sNow soap first then IronX then clay if needed.
Note: Do not clay coated paint for decon.
 
Merlin said:
See Info...CarPro Iron X Snow Soap

Dilutions:

  • 1-3 ounces in your foam cannon for simple snow foaming
  • Up to 1:8 - Light iron remover
  • Do not dilute if you desire a top strength prep solution

I use it in my PW/Foam Cannon 4:1/5:1 Your results may vary.
I do the IronX sNow soap first then IronX then clay if needed.
Note: Do not clay coated paint for decon.
Click to expand...
For a truck that hasn't been properly washed in months, would you say a 4:1 ratio would be ok or should I go stronger? Have you ever used it at full strength?
 
TRUCK.jpgTRUCK1.jpgTRUCK2.jpgFOAM.jpg

Well yesterday didn't go as well as I was hoping. Truck turned out nice but not as easy as I was hoping. I started off by using IronX on the wheels. Worked great as usual but I now know I need some kind of brush to go behind the rim all the way. Any idea's of a good scrubber?

After I did the rims I used IronX snow soap on the whole truck. I was expecting more sticky foam. The picture is shortly after I foamed the whole truck. I cut the soap one to one. I don't know if it was because I was using a electric power washer or what. PSI on my pressure washer is 2030 and 1.74gpm and I was using a MTM Hydro Foam Cannon . I washed the whole truck using the Car Pro Merino Wash Mitt and then rinsed. The mitt was awesome. That will be my go to from now on.

I then pulled the truck in my garage and used the two bucket method with Reset. As I did a section I rinsed it off by flooding the water. I don't know if I should have just washed the whole truck and then rinsed or if that was the right way to do it but then when I went to use my Metrovac it just created more water spots. Maybe it had to do with using well water but the VAC didn't work like I was hoping it would have. Anyone have any tips for drying with the VAC? What I noticed is that it just pushed the water around until it dried in streaks.

The crappy part was that after I dried the whole truck I ended up using spotless and ECH2o on the whole truck to remove all the water lines/spots. That was very frustrating and took a long time to remove.

After I did that I applied Reload which I already had a bottle made up that was 1 to 1 with water. Went on very easy but I never know if I have too little on. Should I have used it at full strength? I sprayed some on my truck and on my BOA and then wiped clean with another BOA. In the end the truck looks nice but I want it to be better and faster. Any suggestions/tips would be very much appreciated.
 
Wheel woolies work great for wheels as they make a brush for the faces and various brush sizes for the barrels.

As far as the ironx foam soap, you may need to add more soap to get a frothier foam. The hardness of the water plays a factor in how a soap suds up.

Next time you can foam and then bucket wash after the foam has sat on the paint for a couple minutes. It will save you time and no need to do 2 wash steps.

As far as drying it may be better to just dry with a towel and then blow out the crevices with the blower. CarPro Ech20 makes a nice drying aid mixed at a detail spray solution. Reload also works or Merlins magic mix (Ec20 mixed with Reload).

It sounds like there is still some contamination on the surface given the way the blower was reacting with the water on the surface.

I am not sure how long cquartz finest lasts but here is how I would decon wash the truck

1. Spray ironx onto the surface while the dirt is still on the surface. The dirt will act like it is grabbing onto the ironx solution. It will also not be diluted down by water. This is a take on the Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method. This decon wash method has worked out great for me every time I decide to decon coated paint.

2. Rinse

3. Foam if you wish or 2 bucket wash with Reset

4. Rinse and then sheet rinse to remove as much water as possible

5. Dry (blower + towel or towel followed by blower on the crevices)

6. Apply Reload
 
The Guz said:
Wheel woolies work great for wheels as they make a brush for the faces and various brush sizes for the barrels.

As far as the ironx foam soap, you may need to add more soap to get a frothier foam. The hardness of the water plays a factor in how a soap suds up.

Next time you can foam and then bucket wash after the foam has sat on the paint for a couple minutes. It will save you time and no need to do 2 wash steps.

As far as drying it may be better to just dry with a towel and then blow out the crevices with the blower. CarPro Ech20 makes a nice drying aid mixed at a detail spray solution. Reload also works or Merlins magic mix (Ec20 mixed with Reload).

It sounds like there is still some contamination on the surface given the way the blower was reacting with the water on the surface.

I am not sure how long cquartz finest lasts but here is how I would decon wash the truck

1. Spray ironx onto the surface while the dirt is still on the surface. The dirt will act like it is grabbing onto the ironx solution. It will also not be diluted down by water. This is a take on the Mike Phillips Aggressive Wash Method. This decon wash method has worked out great for me every time I decide to decon coated paint.

2. Rinse

3. Foam if you wish or 2 bucket wash with Reset

4. Rinse and then sheet rinse to remove as much water as possible

5. Dry (blower + towel or towel followed by blower on the crevices)

6. Apply Reload
Click to expand...
Thanks for the feedback. I'll have to look at one of those wheel woolies that's bent to get behind the face. I'm always afraid to just spray ironx on because I feel rushed to make sure it doesn't dry. What does the ech2o do to help dry? I wonder if the next time I wash my truck if it will make a difference on how the dryer works with blowing off the water.

Do you dilute reload for a black color? How do you know you have a good coat down?
 
Clark,

You could also try a product like Daytona Wheel brush. They allow you to bend them a bit to reach behind the spokes and other areas.
As far as diluting Reload with black vehicles, I just spray it full strength on a m.f. towel then, with the treated towel, to surface. I also keep a damp m.f, cloth handy to address any streaks along with a third "buffing" towel.
There was an issue a couple of years ago with a different formulation of Reload but has since been remedied.
 
fdresq4 said:
Clark,

You could also try a product like Daytona Wheel brush. They allow you to bend them a bit to reach behind the spokes and other areas.
As far as diluting Reload with black vehicles, I just spray it full strength on a m.f. towel then, with the treated towel, to surface. I also keep a damp m.f, cloth handy to address any streaks along with a third "buffing" towel.
There was an issue a couple of years ago with a different formulation of Reload but has since been remedied.
Click to expand...
I was just looking at those. They seem like they have good scrubbing ability.

I'm guessing I didn't put on enough reload with my mixture of one to one. Can I put another coat on next weekend without having to go nuts washing the truck. I know it has to be clean but I don't have to ironx it or anything do I?
 
Clarkgriswald said:
I was just looking at those. They seem like they have good scrubbing ability.

I'm guessing I didn't put on enough reload with my mixture of one to one. Can I put another coat on next weekend without having to go nuts washing the truck. I know it has to be clean but I don't have to ironx it or anything do I?
Click to expand...
I have both Wheel woolies and Daytona wheel brush in my tool box.
Not necessarily about the Reload. At worst, the Reload mixed 1:1 may not last as long as full strength.
You can do another Reload coat and, unless you park at a railroad yard, no need to IronX again.
 
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