Hi from Nebraska

B

BKeyes

New member
Hello all, I own a Lexus es 350 that had a spray ceramic on it previously. I will be needing to do a correction and deep clean on it so I can put a better product on it now. I love to make my vehicles look like new so this should be fun.
 
BKeyes said:
Hello all, I own a Lexus es 350 that had a spray ceramic on it previously.
Click to expand...
What type of ceramic spray?
BKeyes said:
I will be needing to do a correction and deep clean on it so I can put a better product on it now.
Click to expand...
Have you done paint decontamination and paint correction before?
BKeyes said:
I love to make my vehicles look like new so this should be fun.
Click to expand...
Please post progress before/after pics in the "Show and Shine"

Welcome to Sky's The Limit Forum!
 
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I used to work in a body shop years ago and did a lot of "buffing" so I'm familiar with the general process but I've not tried a more in-depth decontamination or correction. I'm hoping I can glean some great info here and am open to hearing lookouts for things to avoid. I have a cordless 5" DA buffer and the paint is shiny still but the protection is gone and will need cleaned with a few waterspots that need fixed.
 
BKeyes said:
I used to work in a body shop years ago and did a lot of "buffing" so I'm familiar with the general process but I've not tried a more in-depth decontamination or correction.
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OEM paint has changed a lot since "years ago".
What is the year, make, model and color?
What do you have for pads and polishes?
For decon I like washing, spraying on IronX, lightly wiping it off and rinsing it all off.
This process "lifts" the contamination out of the pours of the paint.

Then, if you can still feel grit, with your hand in a baggie, use a diluted mix of CARPRO Claylube (Immolube) and a Rubberized "clay towel/mitt".
BKeyes said:
I'm hoping I can glean some great info here and am open to hearing lookouts for things to avoid.
Click to expand...
In short, IronX lifts it out and the decon towel removes any surface grit.
Also remember, anytime you "clay" paint it usually causes micro marring.
This will be removed in the paint correction/polishing stages
BKeyes said:
I have a cordless 5" DA buffer and the paint is shiny still but the protection is gone and will need cleaned with a few waterspots that need fixed.
Click to expand...


My Go-To 2 step correction/polishing
For the initial paint correction
I like the Rupes 5" Intermediate pad with Rupes DA high Performance polishing Compound (Yellow)
For the paint polishing step
I like the Lake Country HDO Black Finishing Pad - 5 1/2" and CARPRO Reflect High Gloss Finishing Polish

NOTE: Modern OEM paints are mostly thin and soft.
Be careful when doing paint correction. Do not chase dragons.
I'm a big fan of using a paint thickness gauge. (even a cheap knock-off is better than no gauge at all)

What did you have in mind for a Last Step Product (LSP)?
Wax, sealant, CARPRO HydrO2 Touchless Sealant or a ceramic coating?

Waterspots: Many times I have found the CARPRO Spotless 2.0 Water Spot Remover works rather than compound/removal.
You could even purchase a "sample size" if you only have a few and see if that takes care of it.
Again, Do not chase dragons.

These are my initial thoughts.
Any thoughts or questions?

​

 
O Boy, You have some great points. I have a dark red metallic 2023 lexus ES350 ultra luxury. It is a beautiful color when clean and shiny. I ordered some of the carpro spot remover 2.0 and some iron x. I also ordered the Clay lube and clay as well as the appropriate carpro pads for my polisher and some Reflect HG polish. I'm hoping though, once I wash and iron x and remove any extra waterspotsI can hit it lightly with the reflect and not do any serious "buffing" or using clay on it. I have a Cquartz UK 3.0 kit with reload in mind for the final protection. And yes a couple of the items I ordered as sample sizes because I hopefully wont need more.
 
Merlin said:
OEM paint has changed a lot since "years ago".
What is the year, make, model and color?
What do you have for pads and polishes?
For decon I like washing, spraying on IronX, lightly wiping it off and rinsing it all off.
This process "lifts" the contamination out of the pours of the paint.

Then, if you can still feel grit, with your hand in a baggie, use a diluted mix of CARPRO Claylube (Immolube) and a Rubberized "clay towel/mitt".

In short, IronX lifts it out and the decon towel removes any surface grit.
Also remember, anytime you "clay" paint it usually causes micro marring.
This will be removed in the paint correction/polishing stages



My Go-To 2 step correction/polishing
For the initial paint correction
I like the Rupes 5" Intermediate pad with Rupes DA high Performance polishing Compound (Yellow)
For the paint polishing step
I like the Lake Country HDO Black Finishing Pad - 5 1/2" and CARPRO Reflect High Gloss Finishing Polish

NOTE: Modern OEM paints are mostly thin and soft.
Be careful when doing paint correction. Do not chase dragons.
I'm a big fan of using a paint thickness gauge. (even a cheap knock-off is better than no gauge at all)

What did you have in mind for a Last Step Product (LSP)?
Wax, sealant, CARPRO HydrO2 Touchless Sealant or a ceramic coating?

Waterspots: Many times I have found the CARPRO Spotless 2.0 Water Spot Remover works rather than compound/removal.
You could even purchase a "sample size" if you only have a few and see if that takes care of it.
Again, Do not chase dragons.

These are my initial thoughts.
Any thoughts or questions?

​

Click to expand...
Thanks Merlin, Is this https://www.carpro-us.com/deep-clea...ination-towel/?searchid=1801088&search_query= the rubberized towel you'd recommend If I have a relatively clean surface already?
 
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