How To: Apply Cquartz UK 2014

I have not, going to do my semi-annual polish fest at the end of this month. Going to do full paint correction and CQuartz on both my wife's car and mine. What do you mean by 4x4 strips? Are you talking about the 4" microfiber suede applicators? I bought this kit: http://www.carpro-us.com/cquartz-30ml-kit/ back on Black Friday, besides a couple more Yellow Fellows and the 10 pack of large microfiber suede towels anything else I should pick up in my order?

I already have IronX, claying products, polishes/pads, and Eraser. I'm currently rocking Wolf's Body Wrap on my Camaro and Adam's Quick Sealant on my wife's car so I think all of that should do the trick to have a clean surface for the CQuartz.

Yes the 4", if you're going to coat two cars your going to need more 4" strips. I have some 8x8s you can have so you don't have to buy more 4" strips, just cut them into 4x4s. I UKd my mustang about a month ago. Best thing I could have done for my dd!

As for Reload, 1 hour after application of CQ. I actually wait 24 hours before I applied Reload. I have a thread in the show-n-shine section.
 
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Yes the 4", if you're going to coat two cars your going to need more 4" strips. I have some 8x8s you can have so you don't have to buy more 4" strips, just cut them into 4x4s. I UKd my mustang about a month ago. Best thing I could have done for my dd!

As for Reload, 1 hour after application of CQ. I actually wait 24 hours before I applied Reload. I have a thread in the show-n-shine section.

One last question about Reload, do you have to worry about it crystallizing on your towels like the CQuartz or is it just like any other sealant where you just launder with micro-restore?
 
Thanks for the help guys, put my order in during the 4th of July sale now just have to wait until my vacation at the end of the month to get to work!
 
Finally see the man behind the voice. Nice demo Corey.

You should post the finest one that another fellow did on black BMW hood.

Also, a demo of the new revised finest formulation would be cool as well.

Is it critical to use suede towels? We've been using mf towels to remove finest

Moe, it is not critical to use Suede towels. If you get great results with others then just be sure they are 100% clean soft towel towels.
 
Moe, it is not critical to use Suede towels. If you get great results with others then just be sure they are 100% clean soft towel towels.

I found that I got poor results wiping off CQUK using Sonus Der Wonder Towels. They have a short nap, but left noticeable lines. Not scratches, more like rows of un-removed CQUK.

For 2nd attempt, I used fresh plush blue Kirkland (Costco) towels (80/20, 365 GSM), making sure to fold the sewn edge inward.

Great results

I also determined that, for me, LESS pressure on the towel yielded better and faster results.
 
Hello Corey,

It's David G. from New York.

Finally, the weather man has predicted 48 straight hours of no precipitation so I was able to polish and apply CQuartz UK.


Questions:

1) Which CarPro or other product along with the technique can you suggest to properly remove those haze marks left from buffing off CQuartz UK?

2) On the website instructions it doesn't say it; but on the bottle, when using Reload, it suggests to dilute the product 1:1 with water on black vehicles. Your suggestion?

3) Between washes, will the coating properties be affected if I use a quick detailer such as Mequiar's M34?
 
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1) There shouldn't be any haze marks left over when buffing off with a good towel. (CarPro BOA or Microfiber Madness Towel)
2) You don't need to do that
3) You'll be fine using a quick detailer.
 
1) There shouldn't be any haze marks left over when buffing off with a good towel. (CarPro BOA or Microfiber Madness Towel)

Hi Chris, thanks for responding.

Unfortunately, there are some stubborn haze marks left over either from over-application or from leaving on a bit longer than suggested because I was working in an environment that was humid outside in the mid '80's.
 
Hi Chris, thanks for responding.

Unfortunately, there are some stubborn haze marks left over either from over-application or from leaving on a bit longer than suggested because I was working in an environment that was humid outside in the mid '80's.

Hmm, some say they have had success with that by using a little reload and buffing with a microfiber towel... alternatively you'll have to lightly polish that area with Reflect and then re-apply CQUK.
 
Hello Corey,

It's David G. from New York.

Finally, the weather man has predicted 48 straight hours of no precipitation so I was able to polish and apply CQuartz UK.


Questions:

1) Which CarPro or other product along with the technique can you suggest to properly remove those haze marks left from buffing off CQuartz UK?

2) On the website instructions it doesn't say it; but on the bottle, when using Reload, it suggests to dilute the product 1:1 with water on black vehicles. Your suggestion?

3) Between washes, will the coating properties be affected if I use a quick detailer such as Mequiar's M34?

Hi David! Apologies for the delay in response - Just saw it. Luckily we have great guys like Chris here to save the day!! That is why we made a forum right!!?

Here is my bit of help as well -

1) Now that it is cured take a dot of reflect on a foam applicator pad by hand and literally just wipe it once back and forth with no pressure and then wipe the polish off with a very soft towel. If its gone, great! if not wipe once more. (If you don't have Reflect, then a fine finishing polish should suffice) These high spots are usually very easily removed with the abrasives in a polish and how easy to remove or how easy to remove too much coat changes the more it cures. As Chris said, you can also apply another coat over that panel again if you think you polish too much off. If you had streaks everywhere then a fast go with the d/a could be in order but just a couple is super easy by hand.

2) I do not dilute it personally. I don't think its needed and have actually never tried it that I recall! Some do... If you use my technique with two towels and immediate wipe on, buff, in, wipe off and then follow with the "secondary towel" (which is the one you keep dry throughout for only final wipe) then you should have no streaks. The key is to remove streaks as you go... don't wait till you are done with the car to start looking for them. I have a video coming next week for Reload application! Shot a month ago but finally freeing up time to get these things done! :) I use a yellow fellow original to apply, buff in, and wipe, and then a crazy pile for final buff on each section before moving on. Flawless!

3) No, and yes, The coating will NOT be affected however soap, QD, and detailers can allow a film to affect the behavior of dust, dirt, and water on the coating. This is easily remedied by a wash with CarPro Reset at any time however and it will "Reset" the coating. SO in conclusion (if this helps) I do NOT hesitate to use Ultima Waterless Wash (as my QD spray) - I use it all the time... and I wouldn't hesitate to use the one you mentioned either as I'm sure its a dandy QD!

Best,
Corey
 
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Thanks Corey for the response.

Reflect with a hand applicator worked well to rid of the haze marks. Do you believe there are enough abrasives in Reflect that may have stripped off some of the protection properties of the newly applied CQuartz?
 
Thanks Corey for the response.

Reflect with a hand applicator worked well to rid of the haze marks. Do you believe there are enough abrasives in Reflect that may have stripped off some of the protection properties of the newly applied CQuartz?

Using in the way Corey described will remove a little of the coating, however you don't know how much. The only way is to test. Check to see if the coating still shows great hydrophic properties. If it doesn't then apply some more of the coating over the areas you fixed.
 
Thanks Corey for the response.

Reflect with a hand applicator worked well to rid of the haze marks. Do you believe there are enough abrasives in Reflect that may have stripped off some of the protection properties of the newly applied CQuartz?

Certainly it may have stripped some, depending on how long it cured and how hot it got during the first few hours of curing it will have removed more or less but if you wiped gently and only as needed then it should still be fine. If it's a customer car I just reapply another coat over the panel I fixed to be safe in ending up even thicker instead of any possibility of thinning. If it was my car and looked perfect after that trick I slap some reload on and call it a day.
 
It looks very forgiving -- longer work time -- than previous video's I had seen.
 
It looks very forgiving -- longer work time -- than previous video's I had seen.

This is how it works for me. I have no problem waiting a few minutes. - For some they tell me they have to wipe off right away which is fine. You can wipe off immediately after applying... So no need to flash. Very forgiving indeed if the tips I verbalized are followed. i.e. changing out suedes, etc.
 
HI Corey,
I want to say you thanks for your CQ video becouse I used it in my first CQ application and you gave me a lot of tips and showed to incompetent user like me how simple could be this product.

I'm from Italy and I follow the most local important detailing forum (LCDA) with thousand of users. I posted the link of your CK application video to help also other dummies and one of much famous italy pro-detailer said that in the video you used too much product and you didn't remove the eccess in the right way. He said also that if you used a flashlight you'll find a lot of stubborn haze marks left over.

I disagree with him but I am noone to say anything. Can you give me some good point to reply?

Anyway thank you for your videos that helped me very much and sorry for my bad English.
 
HI Corey,
I want to say you thanks for your CQ video becouse I used it in my first CQ application and you gave me a lot of tips and showed to incompetent user like me how simple could be this product.

I'm from Italy and I follow the most local important detailing forum (LCDA) with thousand of users. I posted the link of your CK application video to help also other dummies and one of much famous italy pro-detailer said that in the video you used too much product and you didn't remove the eccess in the right way. He said also that if you used a flashlight you'll find a lot of stubborn haze marks left over.

I disagree with him but I am noone to say anything. Can you give me some good point to reply?

Anyway thank you for your videos that helped me very much and sorry for my bad English.

Hi Thriller! First, please don't apologize for english :) We are honored to have you here and you can believe you may speak better english than some of us :):) Thank you for your post! A few things... He is correct you can use much less product BUT for me it is very easy to apply it in the manner here. If you use less then it can dry up and become sticky faster (at least in our environment - Florida) So for me, this works very well this way. Also, if I apply a POINT light at the paint immediately after application it is true that I will see "holograms" from the carrier fluid BUT I NEVER see this after the solvents evaporate and a few hours pass. SO, its possible his environment is different and it won't work for him but I believe I can go to italy and follow similar process in front of him and achieve results he loves. ONLY difference... Depending on the environment I MAY wipe the product back off immediately instead of waiting a bit like I did in the video. Many people here in USA also must wipe off immediately from what they tell me... But I also believe they use too little product or something maybe. I have used before less product and one thing I can say is there are many ways that work.

The main point with CQUK:
Keep switching to a fresh applicator
Always wipe off all residue before it becomes sticky
Have good ambient lighting so you can make sure you removed all residue

Points that vary with environment:
How much you use
How soon you wipe off
 
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