Slickness is overrate....

Let me play devils advocate for using Reload over time (not as an anti water spot topper at application). I won't touch on its slickness as that isn't something I care much about. I will of course admit that when speaking to a customer I freely share with them the slickness attribute as they do seem to care in spite of my explanation of its unimportance. I'll send them to the Doctors article next time. "Misunderstood" is much better stated than "unimportant"

Anyway to the subject...

Reload is a water based product that contains both anti acid components (protect from hard water during curing), and some Sio2 (Quartz like cQuartz)

Reload is almost like a hybrid coating "Lite"

You could argue it's use going forward is to keep the surface smooth reducing the friction and upholding the sliding angle.

Over time break dust and all manner of particles can affect the uppermost surface of any coating on the market, specifically if not washed regularly with the correct maintenance cleaners (Reset and Iron X specifically)

Anywho, over time tiny microscopic irregularities or voids can occur on that surface, (not necessarily visible defects - but theoretically it makes sense microscopic defects would come into existence over time) whether it be from where an iron deposit existed before the use of iron X or be it some type of matter that was allowed to rot and oxidize without the owner caring to wash it for a few weeks.

Now imagine a drop of water sliding across the surface. Any microscopic cavity or irregularity on the surface is going to either push or pull on that water as it slides, ultimately slowing its exit from the paint.

Enter Reload - Reload is capable of filling voids in the coating with Sio2 and of course "other stuff" ;)

Simply put (maybe even an oversimplification and not quite the full story) I suppose you could say Reset, Spotless, and Iron X solve imperfections that protrude above the surface while Reload solves imperfections (microscopic voids) in the surface itself.

Rewind.... An important note to also make is the importance of Reload to protect coatings from hard water spots. Most coatings have a weakness when it comes to water spots even after they are cured. CQuartz coatings are actually very strong in this department. Finest actually has zero need for Reload even at time of application. While CQuartz UK is very strong in the water spot resistance department, it is not so at first.

Because of how each of us here reading this cares for their vehicle it's probably safe to say we wouldn't have an issue with water spots even without Reload but for many out there having it applied they need it.
 
Excellent and thorough Dr. Pain!

I have tried to explain this to others that comment on the grippy feeling of my vehicle. The first thing I say is, "Hey, stop touching my truck."
I like grippy. It means clean and smooth. Slick has always made me think of lubricity which would make me think of a liquid, semi-liquid or soft state. Translation: dust and dirt attractant. Your post is one of the best written explanations I have seen in a while.

Sent from my phone when I am supposed to be doing something else.

Completely agree! Someone noticing slickness is touching the paintwork way too much LOL!

People love slickness the same way they love foam and suds. The funny thing about both of these love affairs...neither are worthy.

I could not agree more! If we were about "smoke and mirrors" then we could light coatings on fire, strike them with soft plastic object, impress customers with foam shows and make them touch hyper lubricated surface making them believe that nothing will stick.... BUT we are not! The truth always comes out and the truth as you expressed is gospel. The cleansing power of a soap is not proportional to how much foam or suds it provides, the alkaline surfactants which breakdown the organic and inorganic "slim" does and if I am not mistaken Lye (pH 13) does not foam ;)

Truth! You really stand for your name! You are definitely a DOCTOR--Detailing Doctor! Thank you for this great post, I learn a lot from it. :)

Sometimes I get inspired LOL! Thanks for the comment!

What's even more amazing is guys topping a coating (thereby negating its characteristics) just to add slickness. Why? Who the heck touches the paint other than the owner? Seriously....

Another great comment! The cost benefit do need to be investigated to see if we are truly negating the characteristics or muting them by adding slickness or enhancing (I think the Jury is split on this one)

Thanks for writing another great article. I have learned a lot from this & really appreciate you taking the time to help teach everyone. My skills as a detailer have dramatically improved from becoming a member of this forum & learning to use all of the CarPro & MFM products & thanks to guys like you who are willing to share information to better everyone willing to learn. Thx again, keep up the good work!!

Chris, your comment made me smile (a smile of contentment). Sometime our schedule get overwhelming and it is hard to find the time to add more hours to our day but comments like this makes it all worthwhile. Looking forward to your contributions :)


Hmm.... This is interesting. And I do agree.

But it now makes me question the use or Reload on CQ even though it is suggested. Can anyone provide a little feedback on this?


Great question Troy, and I will expand on my thoughts and theories in the next reply

I get the idea of topping CQ with Reload before CQ fully cures if the car is exposed to moisture soon after its coated...but applying Reload as a regular maintenance topping for CQ, or just to make the coating slicker...is really questionable. Nothing is going to protect a coating other than another coating...sure as heck a sealant or wax can't. Its just another unnecessary step and expense.

This is definitely part of the cost benefit analysis which can be debated Ad Nauseum! The truth is we will never know 100%. As stated above, I can only offer some "theoretical reasoning" which each of us need verify for ourselves.

Extremely interesting writeup Doctor!!

Let me play devils advocate for using Reload over time (not as an anti water spot topper at application). I won't touch on its slickness as that isn't something I care much about. I will of course admit that when speaking to a customer I freely share with them the slickness attribute as they do seem to care in spite of my explanation of its unimportance. I'll send them to the Doctors article next time. "Misunderstood" is much better stated than "unimportant"

Anyway to the subject...

Reload is a water based product that contains both anti acid components (protect from hard water during curing), and some Sio2 (Quartz like cQuartz)

Reload is almost like a hybrid coating "Lite"

You could argue it's use going forward is to keep the surface smooth reducing the friction and upholding the sliding angle.

Over time break dust and all manner of particles can affect the uppermost surface of any coating on the market, specifically if not washed regularly with the correct maintenance cleaners (Reset and Iron X specifically)

Anywho, over time tiny microscopic irregularities or voids can occur on that surface, (not necessarily visible defects - but theoretically it makes sense microscopic defects would come into existence over time) whether it be from where an iron deposit existed before the use of iron X or be it some type of matter that was allowed to rot and oxidize without the owner caring to wash it for a few weeks.

Now imagine a drop of water sliding across the surface. Any microscopic cavity or irregularity on the surface is going to either push or pull on that water as it slides, ultimately slowing its exit from the paint.

Enter Reload - Reload is capable of filling voids in the coating with Sio2 and of course "other stuff" ;)

Simply put (maybe even an oversimplification and not quite the full story) I suppose you could say Reset, Spotless, and Iron X solve imperfections that protrude above the surface while Reload solves imperfections (microscopic voids) in the surface itself.

Rewind.... An important note to also make is the importance of Reload to protect coatings from hard water spots. Most coatings have a weakness when it comes to water spots even after they are cured. CQuartz coatings are actually very strong in this department. Finest actually has zero need for Reload even at time of application. While CQuartz UK is very strong in the water spot resistance department, it is not so at first.

Because of how each of us here reading this cares for their vehicle it's probably safe to say we wouldn't have an issue with water spots even without Reload but for many out there having it applied they need it.

Thanks for the reply Corey! Let me take this reply and add some on my 2 cents to the equation (in the next reply!)
 
Let me play devils advocate for using Reload over time (not as an anti water spot topper at application). I won't touch on its slickness as that isn't something I care much about. I will of course admit that when speaking to a customer I freely share with them the slickness attribute as they do seem to care in spite of my explanation of its unimportance. I'll send them to the Doctors article next time. "Misunderstood" is much better stated than "unimportant"

Anyway to the subject...

Reload is a water based product that contains both anti acid components (protect from hard water during curing), and some Sio2 (Quartz like cQuartz)

Reload is almost like a hybrid coating "Lite"

You could argue it's use going forward is to keep the surface smooth reducing the friction and upholding the sliding angle.

Over time break dust and all manner of particles can affect the uppermost surface of any coating on the market, specifically if not washed regularly with the correct maintenance cleaners (Reset and Iron X specifically)

Anywho, over time tiny microscopic irregularities or voids can occur on that surface, (not necessarily visible defects - but theoretically it makes sense microscopic defects would come into existence over time) whether it be from where an iron deposit existed before the use of iron X or be it some type of matter that was allowed to rot and oxidize without the owner caring to wash it for a few weeks.

Now imagine a drop of water sliding across the surface. Any microscopic cavity or irregularity on the surface is going to either push or pull on that water as it slides, ultimately slowing its exit from the paint.

Enter Reload - Reload is capable of filling voids in the coating with Sio2 and of course "other stuff" ;)

Simply put (maybe even an oversimplification and not quite the full story) I suppose you could say Reset, Spotless, and Iron X solve imperfections that protrude above the surface while Reload solves imperfections (microscopic voids) in the surface itself.

Rewind.... An important note to also make is the importance of Reload to protect coatings from hard water spots. Most coatings have a weakness when it comes to water spots even after they are cured. CQuartz coatings are actually very strong in this department. Finest actually has zero need for Reload even at time of application. While CQuartz UK is very strong in the water spot resistance department, it is not so at first.

Because of how each of us here reading this cares for their vehicle it's probably safe to say we wouldn't have an issue with water spots even without Reload but for many out there having it applied they need it.

Wow, another insightful post!

I would like to add something to the mix.

We have to distinguish two types of "slickness" that seems to be mixed up:
Type 1: Paint without contamination vs. paint with contamination. This is when people use the baggy test or hands to touch to see bumps on paint. If there are little to no bump, that means the contamination are either trimmed off by clay bar or removed by Iron X. This smoothness is sometimes confused with slickness.

Type 2: The slippery feel of the hands on paint. With certain sealants such as Reload, touching the paint feels like there is some lubrication on the paint.

Anyways, I believe Dr_Pain is referring to slickness type 2 which is not so important which I agree. Slickness type 1, on the opposite side, is IMPORTANT because contamination will hurt beading/sheeting property. Similarly, irregularities/voids does too just like Corey mentioned.

You point out that overtime, there are microscopic voids because of brake dust or other sharp iron particles. Now, that in a way is similar to minor marring except that the voids would probably have random pattern. It is like the paint being hit by bunch of tiny little nails everywhere. Reload is beneficial by filling in these voids. However, Reload's slickness property is not really contributing to this filing effect. I mean, I could have used something else like wax or glaze to fill in as well. My point is filling in property is independent of slickness type 2.
 
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Ya, agreed! [emoji2] slickness of reload is beside the point to me but rather the smoothness it creates.

A glaze or wax won't do what reload will as it will wash off immediately and of course let dust and dirt stick to it.
 
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@FSportIS I do appreciate your differentiation and totally agree!.... but for the sake of clarification I would go with different terminology (as Corey pointed out).
 
So here is what I've seen discussed in the ever question of using Reload over a coating!

1) Using Reload over a fresh coating allows temporary protection while the coating is curing (which can take 30+ days for full cure, and full benefits)
2) Using Reload over an established coating for slickness (pure tactile pleasure and a psychological pacifier)
3) Using Reload over an established coating to fill in some micro marring (as discussed by FSportIS, and documented)<--- and yes it does have some filling capabilities!!
4) (My favorite) Using Reload (SiO2) to chemically react with the free chemical bonds of the outer layer of the coating matrix.

>> Let me explain my theories on this.... and they are just theories because I am not privileged to the science of CQuartz<<

image2-1qaf3mb.png

2619-004-0710A65B.jpg

The chemical reaction which creates the nano-matrix of the CQuartz coating produces a SiO2 tetrahydral structure which interlock with other units (from what I read) which creates a stable structure. Although it is stable, and technically could last forever (in a perfect environment), we all know that the coatings will be subjected to "exposure" (chemical and mechanical), which will disrupt the outer "exposed" layer of the matrix. Picture a cured coating as a freshly woven "unworn" cotton t-shirt, where each strand is perfect (or as perfect as it can be). None of those strands (which would represent chemical bonds) are "available" to bond with other "things".

5-sem-fastskin-fabric-ted-kinsman.jpg

Now imagine the same fabric after MANY washes!!

1_024fc542507661af5d-45023312.jpg

As you can see, a lot of microscopic fibers are now "available" for bonding <--- and velcro love those :). Chemical bonds behave the same. The stable coating matrix will eventually suffer the same fate as the cotton matrix, and it too will be disrupted (through chemical and mechanical exposure) making ionically charged bonds available for reaction with other chemical reagents. The laws of chemistry are pretty simple. Chemicals are looking for stability and therefore will react with any available reagents to achieve a stable component (unless they are inert). The point of this post is: IF my theories are correct, that free endings of the SiO2 chemical matrix are available for bonding...... so why not provide it with a chemical component (Reload with SiO2) which would restore the properties and function of the original matrix, rather than letting nature decide what chemicals it will be exposed to, and react with.

The more I research coatings, and the more I dive into the chemistry that seems to be applied to them, the more I am convinced that simple maintenance and simple preventative measures can and will make the perceived viability of the coating much longer than what the manufacturer claim they are good for. I think they place a 2 year life expectancy on the fact that a daily driver will be exposed to so many things that our desire for "perfection" won't allow us not to refresh it. Although the hydrophobic qualities may not be the same as day one, the protection provided may be exactly the same!? but the fact that we have "love marks" (handling scuffs and wash swirls etc..) will prompt us to re-polish and recoat!!

I used the words "perceived viability" because we currently do not have specific tests to let us know if a coating a present or gone. We solely depend on the expected qualities (ie. gloss, hydrophobicity, and texture) which neither fully confirm the presence or absence of the coating. We may still have a functioning protection on the car but believe it is gone and in need to be replaced when in fact it may still be present, and still protecting against water spotting, UV fading etc...
 
Wow Doctor Pain, not only do you articulate extremely well but also possess a paramount of chemistry knowledge in coating technology. I always learn a lot by reading your posts on this forum. May I ask are you a chemical engineer or detailer or both?? You really write like my engineering professors in some way lol.

You have just convinced me to top Reload on my CQUK coating every 3 months or so to bond with the "available" microscopic fibers to prevent ionically charged bonds available for reaction with other chemical reagents.

In a more mundane term, I see several benefits of Reload on top of coating:
1. Temporarily protect the coating from water spot during curing process. (From Carpro people)
2. Fill in the voids to have "smoothness" which maintain the crazy beading/sheeting property. (From Corey)
3. To maintain the strength and integrity of the microscopic bonds so that it prevents slow and steady disruption by contamination over time. (From our famous Doctor Pain) (re-worded by my understanding)
4. To max out shine/gloss and slickness feeling. (Me plus many others)
5. To have a reason to continue emptying our pocket buying Reload :D jokking!!!

I have some follow up questions:
1. Carpro makes 2 year protection claim on Cquartz coating. Is this assuming the car is readily exposed to natural environment contaminations such as the daily driver? Is it also assuming no Reload on top?

2. If we Reload every 3 months with weekly wash with Reset by someone who really cares about their cars, how long should Cquartz coating last? I want a realistic and specific answer, and not "depend" or "should be more than 2 years" type of answer here.
 
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Wow Doctor Pain, not only do you articulate extremely well but also possess a paramount of chemistry knowledge in coating technology. I always learn a lot by reading your posts on this forum. May I ask are you a chemical engineer or detailer or both?? You really write like my engineering professors in some way lol.

You have just convinced me to top Reload on my CQUK coating every 3 months or so to bond with the "available" microscopic fibers to prevent ionically charged bonds available for reaction with other chemical reagents.

In a more mundane term, I see several benefits of Reload on top of coating:
1. Temporarily protect the coating from water spot during curing process. (From Carpro people)
2. Fill in the voids to have "smoothness" which maintain the crazy beading/sheeting property. (From Corey)
3. To maintain the strength and integrity of the microscopic bonds so that it prevents slow and steady disruption by contamination over time. (From our famous Doctor Pain) (re-worded by my understanding)
4. To max out shine/gloss and slickness feeling. (Me plus many others)
5. To have a reason to continue emptying our pocket buying Reload :D jokking!!!

I have some follow up questions:
1. Carpro makes 2 year protection claim on Cquartz coating. Is this assuming the car is readily exposed to natural environment contaminations such as the daily driver? Is it also assuming no Reload on top?

2. If we Reload every 3 months with weekly wash with Reset by someone who really cares about their cars, how long should Cquartz coating last? I want a realistic and specific answer, and not "depend" or "should be more than 2 years" type of answer here.

You actually made me laugh out loud in my office. I think my staff think I'm losing it ;)

Let me say thank you for the accolade. I'm glad you feel you are benefiting from my posts. My education background is as follow: science diploma, major in biochemistry, Bachelors and Doctorate in Physical Therapy with a sub-specialty in orthopedic manual therapy, therefore nothing that puts me as the ultimate authority in coating chemistry. BTW, English is my second language ;) I do have an extensive background in chemistry which I try to use in extrapolating and interpolating coating technologies, however there is a LOT that I don't know. Although I am a great student and wish to know more, it seems that all manufacturer keep the fine details close to the vest (and you would be surprised how many don't know a single thing about the technology, and leave the nitty gritty to the chemists). I've been detailing since College and decided to turn a weekend obsession into a business almost 3 years ago.

I do love your summarized key point!

As to your follow up question...... The protection claim is just an approximate life expectancy on coated daily driver (no reload, just regular maintenance with automotive safe chemicals). Technically subjected to the least amount of "exposure" the quartz matrix will last indefinitely but we all know that something will come to make us want to revive what once was! It is impossible to wash or handle the paintwork without leaving those "love marks", so eventually those imperfections will reach critical mass, same with the loss of gloss, or the lack lustered beading. I've had a coating on my DD (Black Ford Raptor) for 2 years and it is still going strong. I want to redo it and use a Pro Coating but have yet to be so disgusted to warrant the 16 hrs of work I would have to put into redoing it. Essentially the cost/benefit ratio is not there yet. I do get tempted, especially when I park next to my son's Jeep (which is triple coated with CQuartz Finest) or when I see the incredible beading, but all technical characteristics of the consumer grade coating on my DD tells me that it is still doing what it was intended to do, and my truck still looks better than 99% of the DD on the road right now.

A realistic answer to the CQuartz life expectancy is not available because it hasn't been around long enough. Before CQuartz came AQuartz, and even CQuartz has seen many evolutions through its life. The CQuartz of today is not the same formulation than its original self, so a test subject showing results could only speak of an outdated technology. CQuartz Finest (which is the Pro coating) is now on V6 which was completely reformulated and re-engineered this past year. So even if I were to try and give you an ACCURATE answer on Finest I could not, since the newer technology does not compare to the old. According to the chemists and the manufacturer it is more scratch resistant, more resistant to water spotting and having installed V4, V5, V6 I can vouch that V6 is much glossier and provides deeper depth of color than its predecessor...... which just confirms to me that V6 is definitely an improvement from V4 and V5 which both were similar with some application characteristic differences.

Personally, I believe that you will get tired of the fading gloss way before the coating has failed (same as what I am facing right now). The micro marring and minor scuffs and swirls are so obvious to my eye that it is inching me closer to redoing my truck DESPITE the fact that it still beads just like this, and looks like this (even under my Flex inspection light):

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Doctor, your truck look fantastic in the picture. I scrutinize the pictures multiple times and it looks flawless to me. The beading is great. I don't even see a single minor marring under LED light. The last picture has great reflection. It is really oh my gloss! I'm very OCD myself about paint condition but doctor, you bring that OCDness onto a heavenly level. Haha, Doctor, you should come back to the real world and accept few minor imperfections because we can't have 100% perfection at the microscopic level.

How old is the CQUK on this truck now? When was the last time you polish this car? I can tell you baby this truck during all these times. Good work Doctor Pain. I think you should be Doctor PainT!

A bit off topic here, you have Phd in therapy. Is this some type of medical major? Is it like physical therapy? And... how does your research and major related to car detailing?? I'm quite surprised to see a PhD medical professional working as a detailer lol.
 
There are a few minor imperfections but you need to be in the right light at the right angle to see it... but depth of color and gloss factor difference are definitely more obvious when you have a better comparison on the side.

The consumer grade coating is about 2 years old and the truck was polished before applying the coating. Nothing has been done to the truck except for IronX and regular washes. You can feel some bonded contaminants but minor (for being 2 years without claying). The truck is a daily driven truck, garage kept at night only, so all day in the Southern exposure of sugar cane country (with industrial pesticides, herbicides, and oil field related industrial fall outs). Doctor Paint I am not. I do posses some skills but nothing compare to some of my fellow "brothers".

My degree is not a medical major, since physical therapy school is no longer governed by the AMA and that the program is free standing. Actually to be technical, physical therapy was a specialization of nursing before it gained momentum as its own clinical specialty. The specialization took root during the Civil War when nurses were assigned to rehabilitate injured soldiers back to the front line. It further expanded during the early 20th century with the polio epidemic.... but I digress. My doctorate is a clinical specialization in the field of physical therapy, so advanced knowledge, research etc... Don't be surprised to see a white collar professional in the field of detailing. It is not as uncommon as you may think. I've met plenty attorneys, doctors etc... doing this kind of work. It does break the monotony, and in my case helps "center" me, and feeds the instant gratification which is rarely seen in any clinical practice. Most "successes" we see in our practice field happen over MONTHS, when you can turn and burn a car in one weekend. My educational background does help be more focused and organized, since I was "drilled and grilled" in the scientific methodology. All those clinical algorithm processes are the same, and my research background helps me to develop a more critical eye for the shananigans of "snake oil vendors".
 
Knocking out of the park once again Claude! I like Reload as a stand alone for our old CR-V.

Steve
 
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