The good and the bad , My personal review CQUK

[Mark]

30ml , I got about 1/3 left ..My whole roof on my jeep is a sunroof so hardly was used up top at all.

I might have went overboard on the time, but I took my time and went over it really good as if it was a Lamborghini !

I suspect you did nothing basically wrong, and I'm sure you both wish to take great care of your vehicle, and have done so from what I've read.

I cannot see in my eyes that you have been far off the mark, of prep and application. Of course none of us were standing next to you when your processes took place but I'm sort of thinking the protection is there, the beading-sheeting is there, the longevity is there, but maybe you might be expecting too much, or perhaps did one oddball thing to slightly compromise the qualities, and characteristics of the coating?

Generally, and across the board, with whatever family of products you use, it might be good advice to always "keep it in the family".

Meaning, come along with Meguiars, Duragloss, Mothers, Surf City, Zymol or some other products to wash, maintain, upkeep, then you might encounter some mixed results.

I think I've played this game, and I'm sure my end results were less than optimal because of such.

As I close, I truly think you have the protection present. But if you have some smearing-streaking, I cannot really see much harm in using other toppers as a final coat, but to just keep in mind to not use products which are high in abrasives or cleaners.

Top with Colly #845, Fuzion, Synergy, Nattys, Souveran, and tell us of the results?

Yes, I know, I'm telling you the exact opposite at the end, from what I first said in the beginning of this reply.

Bottom line I think, don't resort to some aggressive products right now in haste to correct some minor issues you might note. Less is more sometimes.

 

[Mark]

If I was one source of overtaking your thread, and your questions, and need of help here, then I am deeply sorry.

I was hoping some personal hack experiences, from an old school guy like me would help aid you, and give some insight and guidance.

Please keep us all posted with what you think, have maybe learned, and the future outcome. I'll try to help.

 

[DARK HORSE]

Hello

We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect
Then IronX was used
Then ERASER
then CQUK.

I have no sheeting / water dripping at all from what I can tell , Here is a picture and this is a good 2 hours after the rain has stopped

http://oi59.tinypic.com/t5ivis.jpg

You used IRON X after polishing??? Please review post #4 from your previous thread http://carproforum.com/showthread.php?996-So-what-is-my-first-step You should have done Iron X and clay prior to polishing. Did you end up purchasing a DA? I remember talking with you only a couple of days ago about maybe buying one. What DA polisher did you get? Did you rinse the IX off the paint, then use Eraser, or did you go straight from IX to Eraser?

 

[DARK HORSE]

As of now my 2014 Jeep Cherokee is all done other than the roof. I will make a list of some things I did notice.

#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax

May I ask what you used for car wash soap?

 

[DARK HORSE]

Hello , 6 hours was for the CQUK only ..

I did it in the following steps ( after clay bar )

Washed the car with normal wash , washed it again with IronX .. Let ironX sit on it for a while then washed it lightly with a sponge.
Used ERASER
CQUK , once I got this wiped down I did the Reload
Complete

What would you suggest I use to get the wipe marks off ? Can Eraser be used as a detailer spray without having to use reloader ?

Hello

We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect
Then IronX was used
Then ERASER
then CQUK.

I have no sheeting / water dripping at all from what I can tell , Here is a picture and this is a good 2 hours after the rain has stopped

http://oi59.tinypic.com/t5ivis.jpg

I am confused as to if you polished or not? My understanding on Wednesday night was that you did not have a polisher.

 

[krazygraphics]

Yes the detailed came over with a dual action polisher , not sure what brand name it was but he used it on my Infinity G37 last year and it was flawless.

Maybe the soap I used after the clay was not right ? I used some soap made by zaino because I had some left over from the G37 a while back.

AFTER I washed it with that I used the clay bar , after that I used the IRONX (NOTHING WAS USED AFTER POLISH OTHER THEN ERASER)

AFTER ERASER was used I carefully applied the CQUK , it was all done in a garage with proper lighting , nothing was missed as I went over it with the suede cloth many many many times ( thats why it took me so long )

Again mayby I missed something, but I don't know how I could , Applying the CQUK in a up/down - left/right pattern as shown in Coreys video with the blue mustang is EXACTLY how I applied the coating.

AFTER ERASER was applied it was buffed out until it was flawless with zero streak marks on the car

We did use latex gloves to prevent any oil getting on the paint.

Allowed 5 min for CQUK to dry before wipedown.

 

[DARK HORSE]

AFTER I washed it with that I used the clay bar , after that I used the IRONX (NOTHING WAS USED AFTER POLISH OTHER THEN ERASER)

Sorry I was confused, you said in post #17; "We used the DA polisher with Carpro Reflect then Iron X was used"
I'm just trying to understand the full picture so I can help you.

 

[krazygraphics]

Yes that is correct , I'm guessing it was applied wrong. Maybe my eye's are getting bad at 40 yrs old LOL

I didn't do much of the DA polishing myself so I let him do that part of it , that's why I keep failing to mention it.

Either way , after watching all of the youtube videos and reading on here of what to do I think it was done correctly.

1 zanio wash
2 Ironx wash
3 clay bar
4 Dual Action polisher with reflect
5 Eraser
6 CQUK
7 buffed out after 5 min
8 used reload

 

[DARK HORSE]

#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax

^^ I think this may be your problem. After application; the vehicle should not be washed for 7 days. Definitely not immediately after application. It is best to let the coating cure as long as possible without getting wet. After 1 hour Reload can be applied, and after 1 hour if it gets rained on within the first 24 hours you must wipe the water off immediately.

As for the streaks; this may have been caused by either not wiping the coating completely off (possibly because it was left on too long and had begun to cure, as five minutes is a long time and at the edge of the limit for removal), or not completely wiping the Reload off the paint after applying it. Either of those can do it. I believe in your first post you said that Eraser was removing the streaks, if that is the case, then by all means yes remove them with the Eraser. If you find that some cannot be removed with Eraser, then you can easily remove them with a bit of Reflect on a finishing pad or by hand using a quality microfiber towel.

 

[krazygraphics]

Ok that could be the problem , I applied Reload 10 min after CQUK . As far as getting it wet I did wait ah hour but I guess that was too soon ...

So in this case , what's the best correction method ?

Also in first post I asked if Eraser could be used as a ( quick detailer ) for removing any type of smear marks , bird droppings or whatever ?

 

[DARK HORSE]

Ok that could be the problem , I applied Reload 10 min after CQUK . As far as getting it wet I did wait ah hour but I guess that was too soon ...

So in this case , what's the best correction method ?

Also in first post I asked if Eraser could be used as a ( quick detailer ) for removing any type of smear marks , bird droppings or whatever ?

Yes applying Reload 10 minutes after application is WAY to soon. Also as I stated above, the vehicle should not be washed for 7 days after application. Definitely not immediately (or even 1 hour, etc.) after application. (This is crucial)! If it does get wet (like rained on) 1 hour after application the water must be immediately removed. I really think this may be where you went wrong.

You can use Eraser to wipe off the streaks, but it is not recommended to use as aquick detailer for bird droppings, etc. For that I would recommend Ultima Waterless Wash +.

I was editing my post above when you posted, so I am not sure you saw that last part of my post (the edited part) so here it is again, just in case:

As for the streaks; this may have been caused by either not wiping the coating completely off (possibly because it was left on too long and had begun to cure, as five minutes is a long time and at the edge of the limit for removal), or not completely wiping the Reload off the paint after applying it. Either of those can do it. I believe in your first post you said that Eraser was removing the streaks, if that is the case, then by all means yes remove them with the Eraser. If you find that some cannot be removed with Eraser, then you can easily remove them with a bit of Reflect on a finishing pad or by hand using a quality microfiber towel.

 

[krazygraphics]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

 

[Mark]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

Yes, I believe it is that easy, if you want to call that "easy". There is the slight possible chance that with all he rubbing you've done to try to eliminate streaking with Eraser-etc, you may have again instilled very slight swirling here and there.

I would think further light polishing again would at least remove the Reload coat, and ease your way to again achieving a good bond of CQ UK.

Of course after the polishing I would again do a full wipe with Eraser.
(This to me of course sounds like it's going to be a quite "expensive" detail with the amount of UK, Eraser, Reflect and other products, and I'm sure a heck of a lot of labor as well)

I don't consider myself any sort of Carpro product expert, like Cquartz, and I'm a bit fuzzy about this, but I think I am correct when I'll say this in my next following paragraph......

Corey at Carpro seems to stress the Reload application be a "minimum" of one hour after CQuartz application. that I believe is the bare minimum rule of thumb to go by. And that possibly due to weather conditions like cooler temps, or maybe even higher humidity levels, it might be wise to even wait longer. Let's perhaps be safe and say 1-1/2 hours to 2 hours. I have read of folks waiting even longer than this, like overnight to let CQuartz cure, and I think the key here would be, that one could insure without any doubt that the Coating cannot-will not get wet during that time.

As I understand it, the high importance of the Reload application at some near future followup point is to protect the Coating against any form of water damage until the Coating is fully cured. That if the vehicle will be used shortly after application, and possibly see rain-etc then Reload will be a must.

There may be some users that may possibly never "reload" after CQ application, and I imagine if the vehicle is some sort of show vehicle-garage queen that won't by any chance get wet for perhaps a minimum of a week or two, then just the ceramic coating would suffice to protect without possibility of coating failure-damage I'm guessing. I believe this is correct.

Please do keep us posted, and give us a blow by blow of again what you will do, and I'm sure the pros here will aid you to happiness, and a great finale.
Mark

 

[DARK HORSE]

Carpro seems to stress the Reload application be a "minimum" of one hour after CQuartz application. that I believe is the bare minimum rule of thumb to go by. And that possibly due to weather conditions like cooler temps, or maybe even higher humidity levels, it might be wise to even wait longer. Let's perhaps be safe and say 1-1/2 hours to 2 hours. I have read of folks waiting even longer than this, like overnight to let CQuartz cure, and I think the key here would be, that one could insure without any doubt that the Coating cannot-will not get wet during that time.

As I understand it, the high importance of the Reload application at some near future followup point is to protect the Coating against any form of water damage until the Coating is fully cured. That if the vehicle will be used shortly after application, and possibly see rain-etc then Reload will be a must.

Thank you for reiterating what I stated above and in the prior thread Mark, you correct this is critical! When I do a coating, I personally don't apply Reload until the next day and "usually" don't release the vehicle for two days after application. I prefer the vehicle not see water of any sort (including rain) for as long as possible. I tell the client not to wash the vehicle for 7 days, and to try to avoid rain for at least three days.

 

[DARK HORSE]

Thanks for the info , So if I want to apply a new coat I guess I could use Reflect and then apply the CQUK ? or is it not that easy ?

Yep you got it. You would wash the vehicle, then polish lightly again with Reflect, then thoroughly wipe the vehicle down with Eraser just before coating. Also as I stated above, 5 minutes is a bit long to let the coating sit on the paint before wiping it off. Spread it across the surface and work it into the section until it begins to disappear and flashes, then wipe it off. No more than 1 to 2 minutes should be just fine. You stated above that you used about 20ml of product; If the 20ml was used to do one coat on the paint only (not including the roof) it sounds like maybe it was applied a bit too thick (maybe why you didn't see it flashing immediately). Generally 10ml is enough product to do the paint on an average sized vehicle. If this is the case I would suggest not using quite as much product.

 

[Mark]

Yep you got it. You would wash the vehicle, then polish lightly again with Reflect, then thoroughly wipe the vehicle down with Eraser just before coating. Also as I stated above, 5 minutes is a bit long to let the coating sit on the paint before wiping it off. Spread it across the surface and work it into the section until it begins to disappear and flashes, then wipe it off. No more than 1 to 2 minutes should be just fine. You stated above that you used about 20ml of product; If the 20ml was used to do one coat on the paint only (not including the roof) it sounds like maybe it was applied a bit too thick (maybe why you didn't see it flashing immediately). Generally 10ml is enough product to do the paint on an average sized vehicle. If this is the case I would suggest not using quite as much product.

I've enjoyed both reading and participating in this thread. Lots of good info shared which will be here, and will hopefully be an aid to all present and all future members-users of Carpro products.

So, to draw some factual sound conclusions, and the fact that Reload was apparently used too soon after CQuartz application, would it be correct to assume and say that Reload came along and possibly removed much of the CQuartz before it had a chance to bond, and initially cure to the paint?

Thus, this hindered-negated many of the qualities-properies inherit of CQuartz Coating?
Mark

 

[DARK HORSE]

I've enjoyed both reading and participating in this thread. Lots of good info shared which will be here, and will hopefully be an aid to all present and all future members-users of Carpro products.

So, to draw some factual sound conclusions, and the fact that Reload was apparently used too soon after CQuartz application, would it be correct to assume and say that Reload came along and possibly removed much of the CQuartz before it had a chance to bond, and initially cure to the paint?

Thus, this hindered-negated many of the qualities-properies inherit of CQuartz Coating?
Mark

Mark, I would say this is very possible, even somewhat probable. However IMO I think the other issue equally detrimental is due to "washing down" the vehicle within 1 hour of application. IMO these are both big no-no's!

 

[krazygraphics]

Thanks again for all of the info , I guess the ONLY thing that bothers me of this whole deal is why is there no instructions that come in the box ? I see some are printed on the box , but nowhere on the box does it say you need to wait any time before applying Reload.

If it stated this on the box I would have never made this error.

Also no instructions saying not to wash the car after product install. Again if this info was on the box I would have never made any mistakes.

Since I own my own business I know how critical it is for this ! Even though on my website I have a document of how to apply ATV Graphics, I still include a fully documented manual so people know how to install them correctly. Sometimes in a garage doing an install its easier looking at directions than it is going inside and going online to search.

 

[krazygraphics]

OH and I also want to throw in that the whole car was NOT washed after product was installed , All I did was take the hose and spray the tailgate for a small test. The rest of the car was not touched with water at all until it rained a day later.

So with this being said , I guess the full conclusion was Reload was applied too soon.

 

[krazygraphics]

I guess you threw me off again with the following comment you made in your first post:



#2 Sheeting ? I washed the car down after it was 100% complete with all steps including Reload , nothing is sheeting any different than normal wax

Sorry I just remembered that part when digging in my mind of what went wrong , Either way it's not right regardless - My lesson was learned

As of now all I can think of is Reload was applied too soon , and now that is raining out it obviously is totally wet so no getting around it now ! Being in Florida and having the car dry in my garage for 7 days is very hard for me to do , Not really wanting the G37 sitting outside in the rain !

I think I meant I wiped down the whole car with Reload after I was 100% complete. Busy days here with my business and was doing other things in the meantime.