C quartz eh?

  • Thread starter Thread starter fobia
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You would need a machine. Might be a good time to dive in.

i would lol. but i dont trust myself, i worked at a car wash and detail bay for 2 years... i could never master a rotary.. and i cringed at people i saw try to use it.. i woould always get rotary trails. My bad experience has scared me for life.
 
i would lol. but i dont trust myself, i worked at a car wash and detail bay for 2 years... i could never master a rotary.. and i cringed at people i saw try to use it.. i woould always get rotary trails. My bad experience has scared me for life.

Get a Griots Garsge 6" DA. Awesome machine and easy to use. Not to mention it's pretty cheap.
 
Those swirls in those pics appear to me to be from the polishing along with the micro marring. To fully remove you would need to fully polish those out and in turn you would need to recoat
 
yeah he used some AIO when i did 11% isp wipe down i could tell some of the filler was coming out of some places. i might of made some of those when wiping it off.. i find that hard to believe though i had brand new microfibers. it was the brightest sun minnesota will ever see :)

i don't have a rotary or random orbital. is there something by hand that would fix that?

would i burn the paint? also what polish should i use? and what pad?

Well, now we have a developing story! In my opinion and AIO is the WORST possible option you could have gone with, especially with Audi paint. The AIO product is meant for very light paint decontamination and minor micromarring correction, and definitely not a strong enough product (in most cases) to perform any type of prep/correction for coating. It goes without saying that an AIO is meant as your LSP, so it leaves behind not only fillers but also leaves a paint sealant as the protection. This is definitely not the best substrate for bonding of your coating. Coating need the cleanest paint possible. Even doing an IPA or Erasor wipe down would have been left "residue" which would interfere with proper bonding between the quartz matrix and the urethane of your clear.

You can do the correction process by hand..... but spending $130 on a GG6 and maybe another $75-$100 on products and pads would be in my opinion the least you should do. A free spindle DA with good pads will not burn the paint even if you tried as the pad rotation will stop (if you apply too much down pressure) and this will HOPEFULLY prompt you to stop or change the technique. Get the 5" backing plate and MARK IT! Also get some 5.5" flat LC correction pad (not the polishing/waxing) and have at it. Read up or watch videos on technique and take your time. You should have fun with this. Do one panel at a time (per weekend if you want) and bring it from ugly to complete, and the next weekend do another. Start in the less conspicuous area (so you can perfect your technique and get more comfortable with the machine) and do some methodical section passes (based on your test spot). Audis are well known for having a HARD clear coat, so I would say you may need some Flat Top (which finished great in a one step operation), second recommendation with a lesser aggressive product which should finish equally well would be Menzerna PF2500. Hard to say which I would go with unless I was to do the test spot and inspect. Both of the product should be great for a 1 step, however I always tend to lean on doing a second step (polishing after compounding) especially if I am coating because the defects will be trapped under the coating.

P.S. IPA and even Erasor offer very little lubricity so the more you work to remove the polishing residue etc... the more changes you are at inducing defects.
 
Well, now we have a developing story! In my opinion and AIO is the WORST possible option you could have gone with, especially with Audi paint. The AIO product is meant for very light paint decontamination and minor micromarring correction, and definitely not a strong enough product (in most cases) to perform any type of prep/correction for coating. It goes without saying that an AIO is meant as your LSP, so it leaves behind not only fillers but also leaves a paint sealant as the protection. This is definitely not the best substrate for bonding of your coating. Coating need the cleanest paint possible. Even doing an IPA or Erasor wipe down would have been left "residue" which would interfere with proper bonding between the quartz matrix and the urethane of your clear.

You can do the correction process by hand..... but spending $130 on a GG6 and maybe another $75-$100 on products and pads would be in my opinion the least you should do. A free spindle DA with good pads will not burn the paint even if you tried as the pad rotation will stop (if you apply too much down pressure) and this will HOPEFULLY prompt you to stop or change the technique. Get the 5" backing plate and MARK IT! Also get some 5.5" flat LC correction pad (not the polishing/waxing) and have at it. Read up or watch videos on technique and take your time. You should have fun with this. Do one panel at a time (per weekend if you want) and bring it from ugly to complete, and the next weekend do another. Start in the less conspicuous area (so you can perfect your technique and get more comfortable with the machine) and do some methodical section passes (based on your test spot). Audis are well known for having a HARD clear coat, so I would say you may need some Flat Top (which finished great in a one step operation), second recommendation with a lesser aggressive product which should finish equally well would be Menzerna PF2500. Hard to say which I would go with unless I was to do the test spot and inspect. Both of the product should be great for a 1 step, however I always tend to lean on doing a second step (polishing after compounding) especially if I am coating because the defects will be trapped under the coating.

P.S. IPA and even Erasor offer very little lubricity so the more you work to remove the polishing residue etc... the more changes you are at inducing defects.

thanks, the guy i used does a very good job, although i could not afford to spend to get his higher packages to finish to perfection ( he warned that AIO might cover some of the finer scatches). i was well aware of that. I was aware that he was going to do AIO but i was going to wipe it off with IPA and then coat it with cquartz. He used a 2 step system a compound and the an AIO to finish it. He is a cquartz finest installer. I respect his work and how much i pay him but unfortanitly i could not afford to get his higher packages so i thought i would do some stuff myself.

here are some pictures from the detail just prior to me doing my work

20150612-DSC_4340.jpg

20150613-DSC_4347.jpg

20150613-DSC_4346.jpg


so this is what i have so far


any particular videos on youtube? there are alot and some people do better than others!

thanks for your advice!
 
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That's the beauty of a modern DA polisher, there is little to worry about when it comes to "burning" the paint. Yes, it's still hard work, but the results turn it into satisfying hard work. Even a $60 Harbor Freight DA will do a better, safer, and more satisfactory job than a $200 "old-school" professional orbital "buffer" (ask me how I know). You will earn a newfound respect for what true detailers do, and will never again consider taking your car to a "hand car wash" or "hand applied wax" place again, and you will turn out results that are infinitely better than any of the make-work places do.
 
fobia -

It could be that the "verbiage" was confused between the detailer and yourself but just to be sure - Using an All In one product (assuming you mean a cut, polish, an sealant in one) is not going to allow for CQuartz to bond to the paint. An AIO leaves sealant on the paint and therefore the CQuartz will not bond.

As Dr. Pain explained that is not best practice and IPA or even Eraser is NOT designed to remove a sealant (which an AIO contains). Therefore the CQuartz is very likely applied over the top of a sealant and won't bond.

Also, my apologies but I did remove your links to our competitors above. CarPro USA is not affiliated with DI or AG, and we do not offer our products on Amazon.

I'm glad you found our forum. While buying from Amazon may be convenient sometimes it doesn't make for a good experience with products due to the lack of proper info or customer service. Hopefully you can gather a lot from the comments posted here.
 
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would i burn the paint? also what polish should i use? and what pad?

Nope, you will be fine. The GG6 is very easy and safe to use.

thanks, the guy i used does a very good job, although i could not afford to spend to get his higher packages to finish to perfection ( he warned that AIO might cover some of the finer scatches). i was well aware of that. I was aware that he was going to do AIO but i was going to wipe it off with IPA and then coat it with cquartz. He used a 2 step system a compound and the an AIO to finish it. He is a cquartz finest installer. I respect his work and how much i pay him but unfortanitly i could not afford to get his higher packages so i thought i would do some stuff myself.

here are some pictures from the detail just prior to me doing my work



so this is what i have so far


any particular videos on youtube? there are alot and some people do better than others!

thanks for your advice!

Did the guy doing the work for you 100% know you intended to apply CQ after? The reason I ask is I doubt he would finish with an AIO since they are a CQF shop and would be aware of the AIO bonding to CQ concerns. Most places don't do a 2-step process and finish with an AIO, something there doesn't add up.

Based on everything that has been revealed I think you are going to have to start over and chalk this up to a learning experience.
 
Some clarification on this thread is needed now as someone clearly recognized my shop and notified me of the thread.

The owner recently purchased this 2012 S4 and wanted to get it dialed in as best as possible, but he was on a tight budget. He opted for my Base 1-step package, but as with any 1-step job it's a give and take scenario. Since the car is white and knowing how swirled up it was, I suggest going a little more aggressive to get more correction and that since he's a repeat customer I offered to follow it up with an AIO for no added cost, to help refine the paint a little further, rather than just topping it with a sealant. I did mention the trade off would be shorter term protection. On the evening that he dropped the car off he suggest that he may want to try and apply CQ himself, but that it could be a month or so before he gets to it, and it wasn't a for sure thing. This left me in a bit of a predicament, but rather than leave the car unprotected I opted to go with the original plan of following with an AIO in hopes of refining some of the faint DA haze while offering some light protection until he coated it, or he could follow it with any wax or sealant had he chose not to coat the car.

This was after just compounding and an Eraser wipe down


After picking the car up he informed me he was going to try and coat the car in the next week. I suggest a strong wash, he asked Dawn, which I said yes to, followed by IPA, and to follow the directions.


I won't deny the possibility of some faint DA haze, but again, that's the trade off with a 1-step, you either have lots of swirls left or you have light DA haze. I do see some wipe induced marring in those pics though.


Chris, if you want, I believe I have a bottle of CQUK laying around you can have. If you want to borrow a DA polisher, I have several you can use too.
 
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fobia -

It could be that the "verbiage" was confused between the detailer and yourself but just to be sure - Using an All In one product (assuming you mean a cut, polish, an sealant in one) is not going to allow for CQuartz to bond to the paint. An AIO leaves sealant on the paint and therefore the CQuartz will not bond.

As Dr. Pain explained that is not best practice and IPA or even Eraser is NOT designed to remove a sealant (which an AIO contains). Therefore the CQuartz is very likely applied over the top of a sealant and won't bond.

Also, my apologies but I did remove your links to our competitors above. CarPro USA is not affiliated with DI or AG, and we do not offer our products on Amazon.

I'm glad you found our forum. While buying from Amazon may be convenient sometimes it doesn't make for a good experience with products due to the lack of proper info or customer service. Hopefully you can gather a lot from the comments posted here.

i don't mind that you removed them.

well don't worry i ordered reload and reset from you the other day :)
 
Some clarification on this thread is needed now as someone clearly recognized my shop and notified me of the thread.

The owner recently purchased this 2012 S4 and wanted to get it dialed in as best as possible, but he was on a tight budget. He opted for my Base 1-step package, but as with any 1-step job it's a give and take scenario. Since the car is white and knowing how swirled up it was, I suggest going a little more aggressive to get more correction and that since he's a repeat customer I offered to follow it up with an AIO for no added cost, to help refine the paint a little further, rather than just topping it with a sealant. I did mention the trade off would be shorter term protection. On the evening that he dropped the car off he suggest that he may want to try and apply CQ himself, but that it could be a month or so before he gets to it, and it wasn't a for sure thing. This left me in a bit of a predicament, but rather than leave the car unprotected I opted to go with the original plan of following with an AIO in hopes of refining some of the faint DA haze while offering some light protection until he coated it, or he could follow it with any wax or sealant had he chose not to coat the car.

This was after just compounding and an Eraser wipe down


After picking the car up he informed me he was going to try and coat the car in the next week. I suggest a strong wash, he asked Dawn, which I said yes to, followed by IPA, and to follow the directions.


I won't deny the possibility of some faint DA haze, but again, that's the trade off with a 1-step, you either have lots of swirls left or you have light DA haze. I do see some wipe induced marring in those pics though.


Chris, if you want, I believe I have a bottle of CQUK laying around you can have. If you want to borrow a DA polisher, I have several you can use too.

No that is ok! :) thanks for the offer always helpful as usual!

the swirls that posted after i worked on the car are so hard to see. I couldn't even see them when i was taking the pictures or when i inspected it outside. they only showed up in the pictures. Maybe my eyes are bad :)? However i am a very satisfied as always with your work and the options you give me when on a tight budget.

That being said the only rant i have and why i posted to begin with was to gain more knowladge on the cquartz product. And to rant about the directions car pro gives you with the bottle are not sufficient. Again it only tells you how to apply it and that is it. It does not tell you the precautions to take after. It doesn't take that long to type some additional sentence and print them on a piece of paper. i guess i learned my lesson don't buy cquartz on amazon :)
 
Thanks for your input and the info Chad!

Really cool of you to offer the CQuartz UK and borrowing of your buffer also. Thats why I love working in this field - Some of the most caring and giving people you will ever meet.

i don't mind that you removed them.

Excellent, much appreciated!

well don't worry i ordered reload and reset from you the other day :)

Thank you! Honestly I wasn't sure what to make of this thread or if it was real until I read Chads comments above. Things just didn't make complete sense to me based on your initial post and subsequent info. :D Anyway, great to to have things sorted and have so much support from the CarPro community. Don't hesitate to call me or ask here and get any questions answered before your next prep and application. If you are going to get a polisher to properly prep and invest the time to fully learn and use the product let me know and we will take care of you on some CQuartz.
 
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No that is ok! :) thanks for the offer always helpful as usual!

the swirls that posted after i worked on the car are so hard to see. I couldn't even see them when i was taking the pictures or when i inspected it outside. they only showed up in the pictures. Maybe my eyes are bad :)? However i am a very satisfied as always with your work and the options you give me when on a tight budget.

That being said the only rant i have and why i posted to begin with was to gain more knowladge on the cquartz product. And to rant about the directions car pro gives you with the bottle are not sufficient. Again it only tells you how to apply it and that is it. It does not tell you the precautions to take after. It doesn't take that long to type some additional sentence and print them on a piece of paper. i guess i learned my lesson don't buy cquartz on amazon :)

Yeah, I probably should have asked where you were getting it. Corey's site, CarPro-us.com has much more detailed instructions.

http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-surface-protection/cquartz-30ml/

If you find the coating has been compromised I will gladly lend you a DA, pads, and a finishing polish to prep the paint and even give you my bottle of CQUK....(actually I should check if I ever opened it. I know I had two bottles, but I did some testing a while back and gave one away).

At the very least I can give you the DA, pads, and polish. I'll let you know Friday if my bottle of CQUK is still good. ;)
 
This is exactly what this community should be about.

Guy comes to site asking questions. Group throws out ideas. Professionals offer to help. Original poster walks away with lots of info and a solid game plan. Plus NO ONE bashed or jumped on anyone!!
 
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