Oily film after applying car pro reload (2014 Formula)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ivan Wong
  • Start date Start date
Are you sure your towels are clean? That would be my guess. Maybe they got contaminated somehow and need a good soaking in hot water with some APC???
 
I think diluting the newer version might solve this... That way you get the same spread as you have more liquid with the product in it, yet you are using less product like the older version. I'm going to have to test my theory.
I have yet to use Reload but on the bottle of the new version I received it said for dark paint to dilute 1:1. Not sure just seems like allot of people are having issues with the New Reload.
 
Reload 2014 is much more concentrated formula than before,
i would suggest for dark color cars to dilute with water 1:1
dilution will make the application go easier,

for such car paints we advise you this:

1. Dilute the Reload 1:1 with water ,
2.Shake well after and spray Generously over the surface! not to spray thin,
3. Once finished spray use 1 MF for spreading and buffing on the surface using same side face MF for the panel,
4. Use another MF for wiping off the excess left after , good wiping off that will leave the surface glossy and clear!. use more pressure wiping if needed.
please follow these steps for best results!.
any questions are welcome .
 
Hi guys! Sorry I am late to the thread. I wanted to go out and test some myself with the Ultra Concentrated batch which is causing some guys issues.

First it's very concentrated so I diluted 50%. I have never done that before but it seemed to make sense with the extra concentrate of that batch of Reload. This helped a LOT to avoid the oily holograms that are visible under spot sun light when used in concentrate on a warm panel. This is how I tested it for extreme conditions. Under partly sunny skies with warm panel.

A few tests I did:

1.- I sprayed a little (non-diluted) and spread and buffed off. (this did not make streaks but when the sun would come out I could see the oily holograms which wipe either direction from the towel.

2.- I did the same test again with DILUTED 1:1 and this made a difference a bit for the better.

3.- I did another section DILUTED and this time sprayed plenty of product and then buffed all the way in and off and OF COURSE followed with a dry BOA and buffed once more. Under the sun I could find very very very faint hologram but this wiped off with a couple more wipes. That was a worst case test on a warm panel for me.

4.- Finally I tested to see if I could solve for if it was used concentrated or applied in a manner or environment that DOES create oily holograms. I had read people using Eraser to remove an oily film... So for sure Eraser is going to affect some the durability if you spray it on 5 second old fresh Reload so thats not a solution... I thought a simple damp towel would be the solution. This easily solves it.

Conclusion:

If you have a bottle of the highly concentrated Reload then of course shake well and apply much more than usual BUT to compensate for this and keep the cost the same dilute it first at least 50% water. That way you use similar cost of product as you are use to, You spread all over easily which lowers the chance of oily holograms under direct spot lighting if you are getting that in your environment. As always buff in very well after spreading and follow with secondary towel.

Finally if you do have any film a damp boa mf towel will easily wipe off this residue.

Moving Forward:

There was some level of concentrate or tweak in this version that was not in the beta version we all tested for the 2014 Reload Edition. Avi is correcting this at the lab and future batches will match what we tested during the beta 2014 V which was loved by us all.
 
Last edited:
When I used the new Reload Beta formula it was very easy to apply it thin like the original Reload and not get any streaks or residue. It seems like Car Pro changed the product version quite a bit, which isn't necessarily bad, just something to account for when using the product. I haven't diluted it, but if you apply double or even triple the previously used amount to the a panel, spread with one towel, and buff with another dry towel the results are pretty amazing. I just tried it on a black Subaru to make sure, and even in direct sunlight there isn't a streak to be seen. I think we will just need to change our techniques for this newest version. Also I want to make it clear that I did not dilute Reload with water since I don't want to affect it's longevity. IF I end up having some issue with streaking even with the new process I will report back.
 
Well I guess i will dilute mine and spray the panel more product on the panels im working on this weekend.
Hopefully that will fix the problem....

I just couldnt believe i am the first to actually bring up this issue lol

Diluting with distilled water works?
 
Well I guess i will dilute mine and spray the panel more product on the panels im working on this weekend.
Hopefully that will fix the problem....

I just couldnt believe i am the first to actually bring up this issue lol

Diluting with distilled water works?
Yes either distilled or de-ionized is good.
 
Last edited:
Corey, thank you for your thorough response and explanations. I read all of it.

If you've read through what I've written in full, you'll see I did some small amount of experimentation yesterday.

I'd like to make some "layman's conclusions as to what I see as the two common issues.

1. Streaks. I think I witnessed a bit of this yesterday, and I'm not sure what I see is what others have noted, but what I seen was that if one perhaps sprays a full concentrate, and only sparingly, then what I seen slightly, was like some darker areas in which it looks like something was applied, then some lighter hued areas which look like nothing was applied.

Thus, your explanations and advice for a 1-1 dilution, and a liberal application to better and more evenly coat a surface seem perfectly logical for rectifying such issues. That my explanations that I say above, and this "streakiness" that is what others seem to be calling it are one and the same thing.

2. The oily film being left behind issue which you appear to be calling "Oily Hollograms" again seem to be the same thing, and what I too did notice yesterday after application on my Kia's Roof.

I had not come behind with a damp MF Towel, but did come behind with two different spray detailers to try with two fresh clean MF Towels, and this was unsuccessful, I checked again in bright sunlight this morning, and the oily films still persist. I will try again per your recommendations, to do another wipe down with a dampened good MF Towel like the Boa, or some others I have and report back.

Again, when coating my Tahoe with UK and Reload I noticed none of these maladies, but of course the Tahoe is Summit White-Clearcoat, and I used the older version Reload neat, this was prior to myself getting the new 2014 Reload Formula.

Honestly at this point, I am still feeling on the fence about this new 2014 Reload Formula, not sure if I'm really liking this formula, guessing at this point on how all will work out, and if I shall find success and happiness with the new Formula?

At this point, I am still seriously considering calling AG for a return and a refund of a full liter of this product and perhaps as you have hinted at, wait for a future re-formulation at some future point that does not exhibit these issues?

My Kia is a junkbox, and yes, while I often use the Kia as a Testbed for new products to see how they work before they get to my beloved Tahoe's Paint, the Kia's paint isn't almost worth a can of junk wax, I only try to maintain its look because that's the way I am, I hate driving around in some filthy trashed looking vehicle like some section 8 bum.

As for the Tahoe which will be finalized soon with more CQ UK, and the amount left of Reload 2013 I have on hand to maintain that UK Coating, if I only use the 2013 Formula for this, I may have 2 years worth of 2013 product on hand, which I have about 7/8ths of a 400ml bottle. (especially will stretch if I choose to dilute it 1-1)

And yep, I did just check the old formula 2013 as I'm typing, it appears pure white in color versus the 2014 formula being beige.
Mark
 
Last edited:
I dont think i saw any streaking on my paint... just the oily holos.
But geez i hope i ddint miss any streak or oily holos lol.

So I am working on my car on the weekends only, so for Monday - Friday it is parked.
IF i do see some streaking or holos this weekend, how do i go about from removing them? Since it has been sitting / cure for almost a week?
 
I'm glad I wasn't the only one having problems w/ the new Reload. Having used the older version plenty of times w/out any issue I decided not to dilute it thinking it was an unnecessary step. Needless to say I will be diluting it in the future, especially since my paint dark dark green.
 
Well, I'm sorry all, but this product just wasn't thrilling-impressing me, and I decided to contact AG, and ask for a return and refund. Nick has contacted me, to ask what the problems were, and I explained in an amicable manner to him.

And I'll say again to all you fine folks, Corey, and all those who are affiliated with Carpro.

I love your products. I am extremely far from washing my hands from the Carpro brand. In fact, I'd like it to be my sole go-to for just about everything detail related.

There's many more products I will try in the future, that I have not yet to sample. Products like Fixer, Reflect, Trix, Hydro2, and many more.

I know you people work very hard, bend over backwards for your customers, answer any-all questions, provide 1st class support, are always kind, and you folks deserve no less.

I'm sorry folks that this particular product in its present form was just not doing it for me from what I've experienced. I'm of the belief that I will again come back to this product one day, because I see no one else stepping up, and providing such a niche specialized product such as this.
Mark
 
I dont think i saw any streaking on my paint... just the oily holos.
But geez i hope i ddint miss any streak or oily holos lol.

So I am working on my car on the weekends only, so for Monday - Friday it is parked.
IF i do see some streaking or holos this weekend, how do i go about from removing them? Since it has been sitting / cure for almost a week?

Hi Ivan,

1. If you do find any "oily holograms" or "oily Streaking" - You should be able to easily remove them with a damp (water only) mf towel, such as a BOA. If after a week on the paint (as you mentioned) and if for some strange reason the damp BOA does not remove the oily holograms, I would think that a little bit of Eraser misted on your towel should definitely do the trick. Being a week on the paint I would not worry about reducing durability of the Reload at this point.

2. If you find any "streaking" (which turn out to be high spots, not oily residue)- You can try to remove them with Eraser first, (but most likely Eraser will not remove them if they are high spots). You can remove them by hand with a drop or two of Reflect. Put a drop of Reflect on a BOA and VERY GENTLY work it across the streak a couple of times, wipe off and check to see that the streak is removed. Repeat only if necessary until the streak is removed. If you are very gentle, it should not affect the CQUK underneath. However you can verify this by putting water on that area and checking to make sure it is still crazy hydrophobic.
 
Hi guys! Sorry I am late to the thread. I wanted to go out and test some myself with the Ultra Concentrated batch which is causing some guys issues.

First it's very concentrated so I diluted 50%. I have never done that before but it seemed to make sense with the extra concentrate of that batch of Reload. This helped a LOT to avoid the oily holograms that are visible under spot sun light when used in concentrate on a warm panel. This is how I tested it for extreme conditions. Under partly sunny skies with warm panel.

A few tests I did:

1.- I sprayed a little (non-diluted) and spread and buffed off. (this did not make streaks but when the sun would come out I could see the oily holograms which wipe either direction from the towel.

2.- I did the same test again with DILUTED 1:1 and this made a difference a bit for the better.

3.- I did another section DILUTED and this time sprayed plenty of product and then buffed all the way in and off and OF COURSE followed with a dry BOA and buffed once more. Under the sun I could find very very very faint hologram but this wiped off with a couple more wipes. That was a worst case test on a warm panel for me.

4.- Finally I tested to see if I could solve for if it was used concentrated or applied in a manner or environment that DOES create oily holograms. I had read people using Eraser to remove an oily film... So for sure Eraser is going to affect some the durability if you spray it on 5 second old fresh Reload so thats not a solution... I thought a simple damp towel would be the solution. This easily solves it.

Conclusion:

If you have a bottle of the highly concentrated Reload then of course shake well and apply much more than usual BUT to compensate for this and keep the cost the same dilute it first at least 50% water. That way you use similar cost of product as you are use to, You spread all over easily which lowers the chance of oily holograms under direct spot lighting if you are getting that in your environment. As always buff in very well after spreading and follow with secondary towel.

Finally if you do have any film a damp boa mf towel will easily wipe off this residue.

Moving Forward:

There was some level of concentrate or tweak in this version that was not in the beta version we all tested for the 2014 Reload Edition. Avi is correcting this at the lab and future batches will match what we tested during the beta 2014 V which was loved by us all.

I again did a very quick test per your instructions Corey late yesterday afternoon, and it seems you are correct that just a simple damp MF Towel wiped over the area eliminated mostly all of what I myself was seeing.

My further tests may have been further influenced and skewed in comparison to others, since after the Reloadv2014 application I tested two different Detailer Sprays on the tested Roof Panel.

Odd, and don't have any explanation for this, where just a dampened Towel seemed to do the trick, but not a Detailer Spray, which one might think has some further additions of other contained products to alleviate such.

Yet again, even after serious consideration of returning the product, I am again on the fence with what I choose to do personally?

Would I then want to purchase-try yet another batch formula in the future that has only been simply modified by water dilution, and at the same cost? From a logical, and cost standpoint, no, that when I or any other end user can simply achieve the exact same latest-greatest 2014.2 formula via water dilution.

As for other's comments like Dave at TLC saying that it seems that Carpro changed the new version quite a bit, of this I just do not know, and in actuality, none of us probably do, only the plant-facility which make these products fully know what was changed, added, or omitted.

Again, will I feel comfortable and wise further waiting and "trading" for nothing more than the same product, just simply diluted with water? In one word, no.

I would like trying your further suggestions-tips today if I can, just perhaps mixing a very small amount, perhaps just a Cap full into a clean small spray bottle at 1-1 dilution, and again test-see the results I get?

I have yet to fully commit to a product return with AG just yet.
Mark
 
Last edited:
Hi Ivan,

1. If you do find any "oily holograms" or "oily Streaking" - You should be able to easily remove them with a damp (water only) mf towel, such as a BOA. If after a week on the paint (as you mentioned) and if for some strange reason the damp BOA does not remove the oily holograms, I would think that a little bit of Eraser misted on your towel should definitely do the trick. Being a week on the paint I would not worry about reducing durability of the Reload at this point.

2. If you find any "streaking" (which turn out to be high spots, not oily residue)- You can try to remove them with Eraser first, (but most likely Eraser will not remove them if they are high spots). You can remove them by hand with a drop or two of Reflect. Put a drop of Reflect on a BOA and VERY GENTLY work it across the streak a couple of times, wipe off and check to see that the streak is removed. Repeat only if necessary until the streak is removed. If you are very gentle, it should not affect the CQUK underneath. However you can verify this by putting water on that area and checking to make sure it is still crazy hydrophobic.


Thanks for the info Tad, But what casues the streaking? Also do you have a picture of how that looks lol?
If i wiped it so many freaking times.... due to the oily holos. I really shouldnt have any high spots at all
 
Thanks for the info Tad, But what casues the streaking? Also do you have a picture of how that looks lol?
If i wiped it so many freaking times.... due to the oily holos. I really shouldnt have any high spots at all

Ivan, we have to be careful with terminology here. In the eyes of one person, a "streak" may only be an oily smear. Whereas in the eyes of another, a "streak" or darker spot on the paint may indeed be a high spot. In your case, I seriously doubt you have any high spots. High spots are caused by not fully removing the excess product once you've applied it. Full removal is easily accomplished if you follow the 2 MF towel method Corey and others have outlined. This is why I seriously doubt you have any high spots.
 
Last edited:
What do I know?, but what I'm guessing is that when only a small amount of product is sprayed onto a panel, that in those areas where the product has been deposited onto the panel that the product is quickly soaking in, and somehow penetrating into whatever it is being applied on top of?

Or, maybe that in such areas where the product has been deposited, there is high spots being caused, and which are proving not all that easy to level? (Unlike simpler detail sprays which spread=apply more easily?)

Seems that perhaps such is not all that uncommon, as application issues can arise with other brands of Spray Coatings such as Detailer's Pro, Pinnacle, and perhaps many others made. That high spots need to be addressed quickly, otherwise left unattended problems of evenness of coating can arise.

I gather that Corey's explanation of dilution, and then liberally, and evenly coating an entire panel, not just a couple squirts per panel then addresses this, thus then giving a more even application without possibility of streaking? I'm thinking I got some of this mostly correct?
Mark
 
Short Update:
Earlier this afternoon, I wrote Autogeek to request a cancel of the return of my Reload v2014.
I've decided to keep it, and work with it.

A few thoughts of the matter, and the product:

I didn't buy Reload, or pretty much any other Carpro product to protect a 14 year old Junker Kia Spectra, I bought all of them to protect-maintain my pristine '97 Tahoe with only 39K on the Odo. And whatever new beater-mobile daily driver that might come along my way (and hopefully soon)then the qualities of Carpro products will be embellished upon it.

If this was the only slight shortcoming I've found, a slight oiliness, that seems to be addressed-removed by a damp MF wipedown, and no other qualities are effected, like durability, and protection, especially those shown in the new video, with Reset, APC, and Spotless washdowns, and still holding strong after all that, then I'm mighty darn impressed with what this product can do!

If we can be assured of this much, then I am satisfied with the product!

Yeah, me, hopefully, and God willing, I'll be out there, 80 years old, still detailing. LOL

Me,I collect a decent Pension soon (in 3 months), I'd like the new daily driver to be a Vette maybe not a new one, but a pristine low mileage example. My only hates, are to think what the insurance companies might do to me, even with a perfect driving record the past 25 years?

The Tahoe has yet to be completed with UK. Soon I hope, the weather is getting better here, drier, cooler, I forsee perfect weather ahead for UK, and Reload.

When the time comes, I will report back with my endeavors.

All I can say as I close this post, is thank you Corey, and other folks here, for your input, and good positive advice! I'll too be an eventual Disciple, it takes time, and experience.

PS: This morning I did stop at the local Sally Beauty Supply, bought me another nice little cute Spray Bottle with a full size neck, and adjustable Spray Head.
I have one the same for spraying on Optimum Opti-Bond, works great. Good that if the spray head quits, I can affix another lickety split.

I'll mix up a 1-1 dilution of new Reload&Distilled water soon, and test.
 
Last edited:
I was told to apply reload with a short nap MF and go back for final buff with long nap MF. Is this still the process? It seems you all are saying go with long nap for both steps?
 
I was told to apply reload with a short nap MF and go back for final buff with long nap MF. Is this still the process? It seems you all are saying go with long nap for both steps?

Jimmy, I prefer a long nap towel like the MM Crazy Pile or the CarPro BOA for both steps.
 
Back
Top