Great post Mark! My sincere honest opinion - putting myself in the shoes of any owner of the current Reload batch. Oh wait! I'm the owner of a lot of it! Anyway, no way in hell I would return it. It's super easy to avoid streaks by simply using enough and as you stated a damp mf removes any film effortlessly!!
HERES the most important part - functionally the product is insane... After my testing the other day we got a good rain... What did I find? Not tight DOME beads... I'm talking tight spheres! Like the beads are standing on a point. The contact angle is almost unbelievable and the gloss is outrageous.
C
ChrisDA
Guest
I have 5 liters of the "New" Reload and I'm a little confused as to why with the "New" version you should need to apply more product and take an extra step to get it off. Where as the older version went on and came off perfectly, with no hassles. As a business owner of a high-end detail shop this annoys me a little as I feel I need to spend more on product as I am using more and have to take an extra step to remove it. This is backwards in my opinion, not forwards as the "New Version" should be going. I still have about a third of a liter of the older version and I'm using it wisely as I'm dreading using the new version again.
HOWEVER, from my understanding Corey and Avi are working on this issue and as ALWAYS... they come through..
HOWEVER, from my understanding Corey and Avi are working on this issue and as ALWAYS... they come through..
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E
EVOlved
Guest
I agree, not that I am into it as you are with 5 liters of the product on hand. But since it is a "more concentrated" formula, you would assume you would need less if anything. All things considered I still wouldn't blink an eye at purchasing it, if I had a need for it.
From Corey's post up above it does almost leave me wondering when I run through the last of my Sonax PNS if Reload may be the next product I try. It just leaves me the durability question since PNS is mainly my definitive winter solution at this point (car is a DD and driven in rough NY winter conditions and I don't have the luxury of much of a garage to detail in during this time frame) and I have yet to find anything that beads and self cleans as well as it does. So it will be on my short list if I don't end up coating it next year or renewing my subscription to PNS.
C
ChrisDA
Guest
Even though I have my "issues" with the new version it most certainly is the best sealant on the market that I have tried and will not go to another product. I will have to make this work, I'm just annoyed it's taking more steps than before.
Claude did a great review explaining well the need for more product. FIRST I dilute this one 50/50 which I NEVER did in my life before so even though you spray more product you are still spending the same $.
Next, the reasoning for spraying more is it simply seems to work better likely because it gives you more time to spread even and buff in and off.
As always no need to dread it
it's super easy to use - only the slight hologram issue is valid and is very easily removed with a damp towel wipe for perfection.Also I'll accept a return in a heartbeat if the added 5 minutes per car is a problem for anyone
5 minutes extra per car to have even stronger hydrophobics, gloss and durability isn't a bad compromise.
I
Ivan Wong
Guest
So it is time to report back... I work a 65+ Hours/Week
I have been busy working on my Mini Cooper on my weekends. Anyways, I diluted 4oz of Reload to 4oz of Distilled water.
I liberally sprayed the entire panel i was working on, spread and buff off. 2 Towels BOA was used.....
After what i thought was good enough, i inspect with my Flex light, still Oily holo all over.
Spray my towel and saturated with distilled water to wipe off the oil holos, it still took a WHILE to get everything nice and clean. but it does work..... The towel needs to be REALLY DAMP in order to remove those oil holo. I had to spray more water on the towel and each and every section.
I have always been a carpro fan, but this 2014 Reload really disappoint me.
Doesn't water effect the durability on freshly applied reload?
Also.... if possible. I would like to get a "FIXED FORMULATION" bottle of reload to replace this one.....
I have been busy working on my Mini Cooper on my weekends. Anyways, I diluted 4oz of Reload to 4oz of Distilled water.
I liberally sprayed the entire panel i was working on, spread and buff off. 2 Towels BOA was used.....
After what i thought was good enough, i inspect with my Flex light, still Oily holo all over.
Spray my towel and saturated with distilled water to wipe off the oil holos, it still took a WHILE to get everything nice and clean. but it does work..... The towel needs to be REALLY DAMP in order to remove those oil holo. I had to spray more water on the towel and each and every section.
I have always been a carpro fan, but this 2014 Reload really disappoint me.
Doesn't water effect the durability on freshly applied reload?
Also.... if possible. I would like to get a "FIXED FORMULATION" bottle of reload to replace this one.....
DARK HORSE
Certified Finest Installer
Hi Ivan, no water will not affect durability at all, as Reload is water based . Currently there is no reformulation of Reload. However as always, if you are unhappy for any reason with any product purchased from CarPro-US a full refund will be promptly made. If you so choose, please send Corey and email and he will take care of you.
Mark
New member
I finally did finish CQ UK'ing the outside of my Tahoe yesterday. Was a beautiful bluebird day with a high of 82F.
As you can imagine, doing polishing/etc on the Roof is lots of work. Up and down off ladders is tedious.
First the wipe down, and Clay.
Needed to do some minor scrubbing around the Roof Rack Attachment Points and Plastic Runners with some diluted APC and a small Detail Brush to remove some past Sealant Residues. Done.
I started out trying to remove a few very light random isolated deeper sleeks (RIDS) on the front that were probably never fully removed from the last paint correction, and again it seemed that Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover was proving a bit ineffective. I switched to Wolfgang Uber Compound-White LC Pads and got better results. The rest of the roof didn't require such correction it appeared.
Then the entire Roof was done with WG Finishing Glaze (which is said to be similar to Menzerna SF4000), and white pads. The GG 3" DA was proving quite ineffective between the protective runner strips. So, I switched backing plates down to 3.5" on the PC DA and continued on with 4" Orange LC Hydro Tech Pads.
All was looking pretty good at that point. Out came the Eraser, and used two Autogeek Pumpkin MF Towels (one each side), and was ready to go with the CQ UK Application.
Again, application was easy, but as you can imagine, applying CQ onto White Paint is of course like any other product, where it is hard to see where you've applied, so thus it calls for a good deal of over-lapping to insure full coverage. One might then use more product, but no harm done of course. Being under the Carport, I found I was almost laying my head on the roof to see the application from a sideways angle, and of course had to take mental notes of where I stopped, and where again to begin every time I had to come down off the Ladder to move it around the vehicle.
I did not toy with separately later doing the Roof Rack with something like CQ DLX, both the Paint, and the entire Roof Rack was coated with CQ UK. With all the little nooks and crannies on the 6 Roof Rack Attchment Points I simply went back at the end with a CQ MF Suede Applicator wrapped around my Gloved Index Finger.
Wipe down as I went was done with a AG Pumpkin Towel again, medium nap, nice, but not as luxurious-thick as the Boa Towels. One Towel sufficed for the Roof.
After the Roof was done, then onto the basic same processes on the lower side Rocker Panels beneath the Side Molding Trim which was not done previously, WG Finishing Glaze on a White LC Pad, then wipe down prep with Eraser. Was a wonderful change up being off that ladder for a bit! Again, UK was effortless-easy to apply.
Broke for lunch, and ran one short errand in town, let the truck sit a good 1-1/2 hours for UK to initially set up, then here comes the icing on the cake, the application of Reload v2014 diluted 1-1 ratio. For this I used again another clean AG Pumpkin Towel, I did liberally apply as Corey and others have suggested.
By the time I was done applying to the Roof, the Towel was pretty saturated. Still, all seemed to go well with applying to paint, and the Roof Rack also. As each side was done, I simply went back with a CP Boa for a final wipe.
All looked great, and if there was any oiliness left behind it was difficult to see upon White Paint, and the 1-1 Dilution probably lessened such from occurring. All looked even, and the Roof Rack looked fantastic and all pieces now had a super slick feel to them. Very happy how that turned out.
At that point, I felt no immediate need to do any further follow-ups with a dampened MF Towel, figuring I'd rather let the Reload further set up, plus I also thought since I just applied CQ UK, better to not use any water near the truck until all is completed cured.
My goals/priorities at this point in time, were the consideration of applying the thickest film layer upon the paint, letting them do their thing, without further molesting their intended jobs.
Perhaps in about 12 days I'll again do a full detail, as I am thinking of UK Coating the 4 Door Jambs, Tailgate, to use the remainder of this first UK Bottle as far as it will go before it turns to glass.
And while on the subject, it should be noted that I have about 3/8" to almost a 1/2" remaining UK in the larger 50ml Bottle.
Considering that I coated all exterior Paint on this '97 Tahoe, the Roof Rack, Rear Corner Trim Pieces, and four brand new 22" Chrome Denali Factory Repro wheels both in an out, I'd say I have gotten some very good use from this sole bottle. At about $54 for this bottle from Corey when it was on sale, I think the purchase was worth every penny!
Mark
As you can imagine, doing polishing/etc on the Roof is lots of work. Up and down off ladders is tedious.
First the wipe down, and Clay.
Needed to do some minor scrubbing around the Roof Rack Attachment Points and Plastic Runners with some diluted APC and a small Detail Brush to remove some past Sealant Residues. Done.
I started out trying to remove a few very light random isolated deeper sleeks (RIDS) on the front that were probably never fully removed from the last paint correction, and again it seemed that Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover was proving a bit ineffective. I switched to Wolfgang Uber Compound-White LC Pads and got better results. The rest of the roof didn't require such correction it appeared.
Then the entire Roof was done with WG Finishing Glaze (which is said to be similar to Menzerna SF4000), and white pads. The GG 3" DA was proving quite ineffective between the protective runner strips. So, I switched backing plates down to 3.5" on the PC DA and continued on with 4" Orange LC Hydro Tech Pads.
All was looking pretty good at that point. Out came the Eraser, and used two Autogeek Pumpkin MF Towels (one each side), and was ready to go with the CQ UK Application.
Again, application was easy, but as you can imagine, applying CQ onto White Paint is of course like any other product, where it is hard to see where you've applied, so thus it calls for a good deal of over-lapping to insure full coverage. One might then use more product, but no harm done of course. Being under the Carport, I found I was almost laying my head on the roof to see the application from a sideways angle, and of course had to take mental notes of where I stopped, and where again to begin every time I had to come down off the Ladder to move it around the vehicle.
I did not toy with separately later doing the Roof Rack with something like CQ DLX, both the Paint, and the entire Roof Rack was coated with CQ UK. With all the little nooks and crannies on the 6 Roof Rack Attchment Points I simply went back at the end with a CQ MF Suede Applicator wrapped around my Gloved Index Finger.
Wipe down as I went was done with a AG Pumpkin Towel again, medium nap, nice, but not as luxurious-thick as the Boa Towels. One Towel sufficed for the Roof.
After the Roof was done, then onto the basic same processes on the lower side Rocker Panels beneath the Side Molding Trim which was not done previously, WG Finishing Glaze on a White LC Pad, then wipe down prep with Eraser. Was a wonderful change up being off that ladder for a bit! Again, UK was effortless-easy to apply.
Broke for lunch, and ran one short errand in town, let the truck sit a good 1-1/2 hours for UK to initially set up, then here comes the icing on the cake, the application of Reload v2014 diluted 1-1 ratio. For this I used again another clean AG Pumpkin Towel, I did liberally apply as Corey and others have suggested.
By the time I was done applying to the Roof, the Towel was pretty saturated. Still, all seemed to go well with applying to paint, and the Roof Rack also. As each side was done, I simply went back with a CP Boa for a final wipe.
All looked great, and if there was any oiliness left behind it was difficult to see upon White Paint, and the 1-1 Dilution probably lessened such from occurring. All looked even, and the Roof Rack looked fantastic and all pieces now had a super slick feel to them. Very happy how that turned out.
At that point, I felt no immediate need to do any further follow-ups with a dampened MF Towel, figuring I'd rather let the Reload further set up, plus I also thought since I just applied CQ UK, better to not use any water near the truck until all is completed cured.
My goals/priorities at this point in time, were the consideration of applying the thickest film layer upon the paint, letting them do their thing, without further molesting their intended jobs.
Perhaps in about 12 days I'll again do a full detail, as I am thinking of UK Coating the 4 Door Jambs, Tailgate, to use the remainder of this first UK Bottle as far as it will go before it turns to glass.
And while on the subject, it should be noted that I have about 3/8" to almost a 1/2" remaining UK in the larger 50ml Bottle.
Considering that I coated all exterior Paint on this '97 Tahoe, the Roof Rack, Rear Corner Trim Pieces, and four brand new 22" Chrome Denali Factory Repro wheels both in an out, I'd say I have gotten some very good use from this sole bottle. At about $54 for this bottle from Corey when it was on sale, I think the purchase was worth every penny!
Mark
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Mark
New member
Before finishing yesterday, I had some time left, so I did also clean-treat of all 4 Chrome Wheels, and did a PERL Dressing on the Nitto Rubber.
Just a simple clean water wipe down with a bucket of water-MF Towel, then applied Reload v2014 at the 1-1 ratio with a new cheapo Wally World MF Towel. Worked beautifully on the Chrome Wheels.
Mark
Just a simple clean water wipe down with a bucket of water-MF Towel, then applied Reload v2014 at the 1-1 ratio with a new cheapo Wally World MF Towel. Worked beautifully on the Chrome Wheels.
Mark
Thanks for the feedback Mark! Nice work!!
Mark
New member
Lots of work with the prep, but at this point I can step back and say it was worth it.
Mark
New member
Did some further testing and experimenting on the 2001 Kia Spectra yesterday and today.
I washed the Car with DG901, wiped with CP Eraser and applied Reload v2014 diluted 1-1. Used one towel to apply, and came back with a dampened Towel to do a final wipe.
Didn't seem that Oily yesterday, and then yesterday afternoon and last night after this detail we had some brisk winds and this morning the car was of course coated in a nice layer of brown dust.
Doing a finger swipe, I still seen the oiliness even more today after the car sat in the sun this morning. It seems that the sun has something to do with Reload turning oily.
I came home from work washed the car down again with DG901, and I could not get rid of the oily smearing no matter what.
Trying to think what would rid the paint of this oiliness, a light came on. I've been in this situation 20 years ago back in 1994 with my then new Black Lincoln Town Car, and a horrid result with the wally world blue liquid Zymol. Same deal, the Zymol looked like I waxed my car with Crisco.
I remember what solved the issue back then, and I had the exact same good results today with the Kia.
What got the Oily Film off right now, and completely without one smidgen of a trace left? Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.
Yep, I had to go old school, and just like before, Collinte products left the paint with a rich deep lustrous hue and look, nice slippery finish, yet absolutely no oily films left behind.
Even the glass was done with Reload, it too was filmy but the Collinite took care of all the glass as well.
Now as for the Collinite 845 removing the layer of Reload that was previously applied, I honestly cannot say?
After a lot of work, and still less than stellar results again with the new Reload, I'm going to have to conclude that in my personal use, this Formula just isn't cutting it, that this oily smeariness is a inherit flaw that just cannot be gotten around and rectified. At least on dark colors. I suspect the issue is present on all colors, just not as easily seen. For sure, I thought a full blown wash down with shampoos would have removed the oilyness. Nope.
I may still return the one unused bottle to AG for credit-refund. I'll see what they say? Perhaps I'll reconsider the use of Reload again after a possible updated future reformulation? As for now, this one is just too much work, and am not getting the results I seek no matter what.
Mark
I washed the Car with DG901, wiped with CP Eraser and applied Reload v2014 diluted 1-1. Used one towel to apply, and came back with a dampened Towel to do a final wipe.
Didn't seem that Oily yesterday, and then yesterday afternoon and last night after this detail we had some brisk winds and this morning the car was of course coated in a nice layer of brown dust.
Doing a finger swipe, I still seen the oiliness even more today after the car sat in the sun this morning. It seems that the sun has something to do with Reload turning oily.
I came home from work washed the car down again with DG901, and I could not get rid of the oily smearing no matter what.
Trying to think what would rid the paint of this oiliness, a light came on. I've been in this situation 20 years ago back in 1994 with my then new Black Lincoln Town Car, and a horrid result with the wally world blue liquid Zymol. Same deal, the Zymol looked like I waxed my car with Crisco.
I remember what solved the issue back then, and I had the exact same good results today with the Kia.
What got the Oily Film off right now, and completely without one smidgen of a trace left? Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.
Yep, I had to go old school, and just like before, Collinte products left the paint with a rich deep lustrous hue and look, nice slippery finish, yet absolutely no oily films left behind.
Even the glass was done with Reload, it too was filmy but the Collinite took care of all the glass as well.
Now as for the Collinite 845 removing the layer of Reload that was previously applied, I honestly cannot say?
After a lot of work, and still less than stellar results again with the new Reload, I'm going to have to conclude that in my personal use, this Formula just isn't cutting it, that this oily smeariness is a inherit flaw that just cannot be gotten around and rectified. At least on dark colors. I suspect the issue is present on all colors, just not as easily seen. For sure, I thought a full blown wash down with shampoos would have removed the oilyness. Nope.
I may still return the one unused bottle to AG for credit-refund. I'll see what they say? Perhaps I'll reconsider the use of Reload again after a possible updated future reformulation? As for now, this one is just too much work, and am not getting the results I seek no matter what.
Mark
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Dr_Pain
Certified Finest Installer
That's a bummer Mark! Just for general info. Do you have any temp/humidity levels for application and during the sun exposure!?!
Mark
New member
Sure, temp highs today are at 68F, and humidity is said to be 18%. Yesterday was a bit warmer, in the mid 70's, basically same humidity levels, last night a cold front must've came through with the winds, overnight temps were probably in the low-mids 50's.
This sort of weather is what I consider ideal for detailing, and of course I never do any paint processes like washing, or any LSP applications to warm-hot paint in direct sunlight.
Only one thing I ever do, or ever have done in direct sunlight on any vehicle, is shampoo interiors and/or carpeting, I won't even touch glass in direct sun due to smearing-streaking usually occurring.
I think I mentioned this before, and since my Tahoe now has a full coat of UK on board, I do have a reasonable amount of the old Reload Formula left on hand. Probably enough that should I choose to dilute it, it should last me through the year 2015 if I use it wisely, and just for the Tahoe's paint upkeep.
I'm of the belief that once going with CQuartz, "Keep it in the family" so to speak, with nothing but CP Products to maintain.
The Kia has always been my little test bed for all products before going on the Tahoe. The Tahoe's paint, and body is basically immaculate. Doubt you'll ever find a cleaner, more pristine '97 in the whole country, unless somebody bought one, croaked, and left it in a garage since. Or in Jay Leno's collection, which I'm sure to Jay this Tahoe is less valuable to him than a Yugo, or a VW "Thing" because those probably have more collectability and value.
I never did such fussy testing and never placed the older formula under such scrutiny, but I have a good detailing eye, I think I would've noticed this quickly with the older formula. I myself saw no such issues with v2013.
Mark
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Mark
New member
Sorry Corey/All, but I did ship back my two bottles of Reload to A-Geek earlier this morning.
It just wasn't working out for me, and felt it senseless to hang onto it.
As for any possible future re-formulations of Reload, I myself don't believe that just a simple dilution of v2014 will be the cure-fix for the smeary-oily tendencies. It might be as you say, some additional component-ingredient was added?
Mark
It just wasn't working out for me, and felt it senseless to hang onto it.
As for any possible future re-formulations of Reload, I myself don't believe that just a simple dilution of v2014 will be the cure-fix for the smeary-oily tendencies. It might be as you say, some additional component-ingredient was added?
Mark
Mark, we are working on it and will announce here as soon as we have updated the Reload stock with the corrected formula. As for ordering from that store you would have to speak with them about products you purchase from them. I don't have any connection or knowledge of their stock or plans.
Mark
New member
Thank you Corey! This little "hiccup" of course does not mean I'm down, and out with Carpro, quite the contrary.
Have lots of Carpro products on hand right now, full unopened litres of Reset, Eraser, PERL, Iron-X, Spotless, unopened 50ml Bottle of UK, and other smaller bottles of many of the products I mentioned above.
The beloved Tahoe is now essentially a Carpro protected Vehicle, but I have more to do!
Never mentioned this, but last week cleaned up the Kia Spectra's interior. The Upholstery was all good, but all plastic was looking a bit cruddy.
Autogeek gave me a free 2oz Bottle of Blackfire Interior Cleaner with my last order of basically all the Carpro Goods mentioned above, and set out to clean things up. The Blackfire Cleaner worked nicely, a lot of dirts came off all panels.
Then did all Panels, the Dash, and all Plastic with PERL at 1-1 ratio. Looks really great! Dry to the touch, very lustrous look, and no dust seems to be accumulating. (which is a real problem here)
The Tahoe will be the next candidate for the PERL Treatment on all interior Panels, and since I have Leather Seats in the Tahoe, I think they should get PERL'd also. Betcha they'll glow! ;-)
Thanks again Corey!
Mark